Stripped 42RLE pan bolts

[nevada72]

Did you threadlock the studs in the case?

Yes

You can see the red Loctite at the base of the threads. I applied liberally. It will definitely take heat to get them out should that ever need to happen (can't see why though).

You can see the one stud near the skid plate has no thread between the 10mm and 8mm threads. I have an aluminum bushing, or very thick washer for that one.

 

[nevada72]

And the finished product. No leaks thanks God.

 

[Moglocker]

And the finished product. No leaks thanks God.

View attachment 674579

Hey I like that ,did you use blue lock tight?

 

[Moglocker]

Hey I like that ,did you use blue lock tight?

I didn’t realize the holes went all the way through,I used a lubelocker on my 32rh with no problems.

 

[steelhd]

...but I don’t think I applied more than 14.5 ft lbs ...

What is the range of the torque wrench you used? And is it swing pointer, click, or electronic?

 

[nevada72]

Hey I like that ,did you use blue lock tight?

Thanks! I used red on the studs in the trans and blue on the studs holding the pan.

Some of the holes are open on top but some aren't. The open top helps if you strip those out because you can just do what I did but put a nut on top.

 

[Moglocker]

Thanks! I used red on the studs in the trans and blue on the studs holding the pan.

Some of the holes are open on top but some aren't. The open top helps if you strip those out because you can just do what I did but put a nut on

 

[nevada72]

@Moglocker - For some reason your question - "I thought these were just one stud?" showed up on the email notification but doesn't appear here. On my computer anyway.

It is one stud per hole. I used red Loctite on one half to "permanently" seal them into the transmission housing. Then I coated the bottom half with Blue to hold the nuts in place until I need to remove them for the next filter change. This way, "in theory", when I go to loosen the nuts the blue will allow the nuts to break free but the red will keep the studs from rotating.

That said, the studs have a 4mm Allen socket on each end so worse comes to worse I can isolate the stud while using a box wrench on the nuts.

Hopefully that all makes sense. Sometimes it does in my mind but "on paper" looks confusing.

 

[Moglocker]

@Moglocker - For some reason your question - "I thought these were just one stud?" showed up on the email notification but doesn't appear here. On my computer anyway.

It is one stud per hole. I used red Loctite on one half to "permanently" seal them into the transmission housing. Then I coated the bottom half with Blue to hold the nuts in place until I need to remove them for the next filter change. This way, "in theory", when I go to loosen the nuts the blue will allow the nuts to break free but the red will keep the studs from rotating.

That said, the studs have a 4mm Allen socket on each end so worse comes to worse I can isolate the stud while using a box wrench on the nuts.

Hopefully that all makes sense. Sometimes it does in my mind but "on paper" looks confusing.

I realized you meant blue on the nuts.i don’t think you would need any on the flange nuts,they are kinda grippy,looks like a great idea.maybe some shorter studs.

 

[nevada72]

I realized you meant blue on the nuts.i don’t think you would need any on the flange nuts,they are kinda grippy,looks like a great idea.maybe some shorter studs.

Yeah, shorter studs wouldn't be a bad idea. These are 50mm so about 2 inches. I would think 30mm would be ideal. I could have cut them, but my Porta-band died, so I figured I would be okay as is. Which is true, but shorter studs would have made it easier to slide on the pan. The way it is I had to finagle it on.

The flange nuts do have a locking aspect to them but with so little torque the slick surfaces don't dig in. I always use some sort of lube on SS hardware. It can bind without it. So blue Loctite is my go to for that unless it needs to be on forever. Then red.

 

[Moglocker]

Yeah, shorter studs wouldn't be a bad idea. These are 50mm so about 2 inches. I would think 30mm would be ideal. I could have cut them, but my Porta-band died, so I figured I would be okay as is. Which is true, but shorter studs would have made it easier to slide on the pan. The way it is I had to finagle it on.

The flange nuts do have a locking aspect to them but with so little torque the slick surfaces don't dig in. I always use some sort of lube on SS hardware. It can bind without it. So blue Loctite is my go to for that unless it needs to be on forever. Then red.

Oh,I didn’t know they were s/s,they will definitely lock up.

 

[nevada72]

Ok, so it's looking like the gasket wasn't the problem. I still have a leak and it's dripping off the stud that I needed to replace with a 10mm/8mm stud. BUT - there is clearly trans fluid coming from above and dripping down. I figured it was getting blown around when driving, but now I think it's this electrical connection -

Anyone familiar with repairing a leak originating from this thing?

 

[nevada72]

Well I figured that part out thanks to Youtube - shift solenoid seal. Looks like I'll be dropping the pan again.


View: https://youtu.be/Mjj3tkLI0GM?si=N8GjySAfTOkF1Glx

Screen shot from the video. It's the seal around that 10 pin connector by the guys hand.