Do I need to do a crank / cam re-learn after removing OPDA

First thing I'd do would be to remove the OPDA, re-pin it, set the engine to TDC, and re-install. That ensures the OPDA is in the correct orientation and just "makes sure" its right. THEN re-learn if you need to.

That kind of seems unnecessary if they're able to read where they are at off the ODB-II reader, especially with Blaine's context of the computer being able to adjust +/-10°.
 
That kind of seems unnecessary if they're able to read where they are at off the ODB-II reader, especially with Blaine's context of the computer being able to adjust +/-10°.
More than unnecessary and a whole bunch of stupid work for nothing. The scanner will tell you what you need to know. We've adjusted more than I'll ever remember by loosening the clamp bolt, turning it back and forth until it is 0 or close, locking it down and then doing the relearn. No need to pull anything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rasband and TEZZA
That kind of seems unnecessary if they're able to read where they are at off the ODB-II reader, especially with Blaine's context of the computer being able to adjust +/-10°.

I'd get it as close as possible before going to the electronics - but that's just me.
 
More than unnecessary and a whole bunch of stupid work for nothing. The scanner will tell you what you need to know. We've adjusted more than I'll ever remember by loosening the clamp bolt, turning it back and forth until it is 0 or close, locking it down and then doing the relearn. No need to pull anything.

IMG_0373.webp

Since you’ve done it in the past, would you do a relearn with a value of 6.7? I was watching it as I drive and it seems to stay around the same. I already put loctite on the clamp bolt because I have had issues with it vibrating loose so I don’t feel like removing it unless I have to.
 
View attachment 675548
Since you’ve done it in the past, would you do a relearn with a value of 6.7? I was watching it as I drive and it seems to stay around the same. I already put loctite on the clamp bolt because I have had issues with it vibrating loose so I don’t feel like removing it unless I have to.
The clamp bolt not staying tight is a major concern. You need to find out what is causing it. Is the cam bent or is the shaft the gear is on bent? There is no reason for it to ever come loose after being tightened that requires Loctite.

Ya'll are focusing on the relearn, you need to be focused on getting the sync closer to 0 and if you can tell it is at 6.7, absolutely no reason not to.
 
The clamp bolt not staying tight is a major concern. You need to find out what is causing it. Is the cam bent or is the shaft the gear is on bent? There is no reason for it to ever come loose after being tightened that requires Loctite.

Ya'll are focusing on the relearn, you need to be focused on getting the sync closer to 0 and if you can tell it is at 6.7, absolutely no reason not to.

I think it came loose because the shop didn’t tighten it enough.That bolt is supposed to be torqued to 17ftlbs. It was very hard to tighten the original bolt because it was starting to round and the half inch wrench doesn’t fit exactly perfect on it. I replaced the bolt with a new grade 8 5/16-18x1 inch flange bolt and I put the loctite on it because I didn’t think it would hurt anything. My opda looked great when I had it out and my cam gear looked good too.
 
I think it came loose because the shop didn’t tighten it enough.That bolt is supposed to be torqued to 17ftlbs. It was very hard to tighten the original bolt because it was starting to round and the half inch wrench doesn’t fit exactly perfect on it. I replaced the bolt with a new grade 8 5/16-18x1 inch flange bolt and I put the loctite on it because I didn’t think it would hurt anything. My opda looked great when I had it out and my cam gear looked good too.
I had one with a bent camshaft. It wobbled the OPDA slightly and then eventually quit working all the way. What bent the cam? The OPDA seized while driving.
 
I had one with a bent camshaft. It wobbled the OPDA slightly and then eventually quit working all the way. What bent the cam? The OPDA seized while driving.

How can you tell it’s bent without pulling the camshaft? I feel like a bent camshaft would cause a misfire or something
 
I think it came loose because the shop didn’t tighten it enough.That bolt is supposed to be torqued to 17ftlbs. It was very hard to tighten the original bolt because it was starting to round and the half inch wrench doesn’t fit exactly perfect on it. I replaced the bolt with a new grade 8 5/16-18x1 inch flange bolt and I put the loctite on it because I didn’t think it would hurt anything. My opda looked great when I had it out and my cam gear looked good too.

Interesting. Mine had a 10mm bolt, and the replacement came with an 8...
 
I didn't stutter.
Here are my values after adjusting the opda. Only took me 3 minutes and I turned it maybe a millimeter counter clockwise. I will disconnect the battery to see if it relearns if not I will have to find a scan tool capable of doing the relearn.Thank you for your help
IMG_0374.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: JKP and FarFire70
Here are my values after adjusting the opda. Only took me 3 minutes and I turned it maybe a millimeter counter clockwise. I will disconnect the battery to see if it relearns if not I will have to find a scan tool capable of doing the relearn.Thank you for your help
View attachment 675704

What scan tool did you find to be able to read the cam crank difference?
 
What scan tool did you find to be able to read the cam crank difference?

Mine is an x tool a30d however I can’t recommend it because it’s very slow and it won’t let me do the crank cam relearn even though it shows it has the option to.
 
I am still having trouble with doing the cam crank sync. I tried another Bluetooth scan tool to do it and it’s giving me a failure message like the other one. Does anyone know what it’s doing it? I don’t like that it says cam sync at start is out

IMG_0378.webp
 
Since you have a 2006, you don't need to reset the learned value with a scan tool. Disconnect the battery and let the PCM completely discharge. It will reset the value. I think 0.4 can crank different is really close and I probably wouldn't worry about getting it closer to zero. But if you did, just use the app to read the difference and adjust the OPDA.

What is the new Bluetooth OBD app you are using?
 
Since you have a 2006, you don't need to reset the learned value with a scan tool. Disconnect the battery and let the PCM completely discharge. It will reset the value. I think 0.4 can crank different is really close and I probably wouldn't worry about getting it closer to zero. But if you did, just use the app to read the difference and adjust the OPDA.

What is the new Bluetooth OBD app you are using?

What I meant to say was I cannot get it to relearn. I will try to disconnect the battery for at least an hour. I am happy with the .4 difference since it was the closest I can get it. I don’t like how it’s out of sync at start and the learned value is 6753.40