I will and yes they are time consuming. I just might bring s spare tranny as this will be new
Hey Mike ,are you doing the vent mod,might have to cross a creek or two up in the Rocky’s.
32RH Transmission Swap From AX-15
- Thread starter hosejockey61
- Start date
Hey Mike ,are you doing the vent mod,might have to cross a creek or two up in the Rocky’s.
Ok, short information update that has been updated on the individual posts.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU DON'T KNOW.
I'm in that boat and trying to learn. Thank god we have Blaine to rely on for accurate and detailed information. Consulting with him has prevented me from probably hours of wasted or ill directed time. My goal is to have this thread help others, so I will copy/paste pertinent information from other threads to try and have it all in one place. I did update some of the previous posts, but I will list newly learned information now for those that don't want to go back.
First, I bought this transmission from a salvage yard. Come to find out, it is rebuilt. The fluid looked very clean and I expect that it will run fine. However, understand that if a torque converter sits for a long period of time, sludge can build up on the bottom and throw off the balance. You can get vibes and not even know where there are coming from causing you to chase down driveshafts etc. A new torque converter is generally recommended. I am going to take my chances with this one since everything looked so clean. If I have issues with it, I'll replace it.
Next, the transmission bracket is one piece, not two. the rubber transmission mount is the same across all years. You learn something new every day!
Next, when we did Josh's and Matt's 42RLE swaps, we had to add a bushing after removing the pilot bearing. The 32RH doesn't require that. It goes right into the end of the crank shaft.
Lastly, the stock cooler lines have a valve in them whereas the SS Tubes lines i bought don't have one.
YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU DON'T KNOW.
I'm in that boat and trying to learn. Thank god we have Blaine to rely on for accurate and detailed information. Consulting with him has prevented me from probably hours of wasted or ill directed time. My goal is to have this thread help others, so I will copy/paste pertinent information from other threads to try and have it all in one place. I did update some of the previous posts, but I will list newly learned information now for those that don't want to go back.
First, I bought this transmission from a salvage yard. Come to find out, it is rebuilt. The fluid looked very clean and I expect that it will run fine. However, understand that if a torque converter sits for a long period of time, sludge can build up on the bottom and throw off the balance. You can get vibes and not even know where there are coming from causing you to chase down driveshafts etc. A new torque converter is generally recommended. I am going to take my chances with this one since everything looked so clean. If I have issues with it, I'll replace it.
Next, the transmission bracket is one piece, not two. the rubber transmission mount is the same across all years. You learn something new every day!
Next, when we did Josh's and Matt's 42RLE swaps, we had to add a bushing after removing the pilot bearing. The 32RH doesn't require that. It goes right into the end of the crank shaft.
Lastly, the stock cooler lines have a valve in them whereas the SS Tubes lines i bought don't have one.
We were talking about that and yes, here in Colorado that's a real possibility. I try to steer clear from deep water but sometimes it's inevitable if you want to hang with the group. I need to look at it a little bit more before committing to it as I feel like I'm on a tight time crunch right now. It would certainly be easier to get it done now before the install, but I'm just afraid of introducing possible shavings into the tranny. We'll see.
I am excited to see what all it takes! Let me know if you could use some extra hands
I've seen your hands....not sure I want them touching my junk
I couldn't have done mine without @mrblaine ! There's so many components involved that only someone who has done countless numbers of these swaps can really help you dial in all the way. No thread has all the info he has in his head.
I've seen your hands....not sure I want them touching my junk
You're Irish, it only takes one hand.
Speaking of, here is a cut and paste from Blaine from a previous 32RH swap that I want to add to this thread for general information.
There are two sets of bolts you need at the back of the motor. The first set is the flex plate to flywheel place bolts. They are lower profile but not what you would consider low profile and you can't substitute normal grade 8 bolts for two reasons. The first is the oddball length and the second is they are place bolts with a special head configuration to prevent loosening when torqued correctly.
The second set of bolts holds the torque convertor to the flex plate and they need to be the ones designed for that application as well for similar reasons.
As far as the wiring goes, you may or may not have the short adapter to hook up the harness for the NSS and TCC switch for lock up.
The 2002 need to have the harness from Vintage Parts purchased and used. It will plug into the adapter harness that the reverse light switch plugs into for the manual. Other years just have the correct harness folded back and taped in place.
You will also need the firewall block off plate for the clutch slave and master. Don't get sucked into the higher prices on Ebay, it is about a 10 dollar part at the dealer.
For the center console, you will need the auto shifter floor plate for the auto and the shift indicator bezel. The bulb holder is taped back along the harness under there and a 194 bulb will need to be plugged into it and then stuffed into the bottom of the bezel to light up the selector when the dash lights are on.
The auto shifter can be had at the dealer or Davey's and you will need a new shifter cable. The one from a Cherokee will work but I don't recommend it. The TJ version has a section of heat wrap on it where it goes by the exhaust manifold and the XJ version doesn't which cooks the cable housing and then it will break.
A TV or kick down cable will need to be installed. When you install it, you also remove the return helper spring from the throttle body lever and discard it. The TV cable has a spring on it at the trans bracket.
When you install the new trans mount, you will need the square adapter plate that bolts to the trans skid. The bolt holes are there and use carriage bolts pointed up with the nuts on top. It mounts over the other set of holes in the skid that the manual mount is not using.
The actual trans mount is the same but the adapter plates that bolt it up to the trans are different between the two.
The t-case shifter needs to match the one from the trans due to the different lengths. The 32 is the shortest trans Jeep used in the 6 cylinder TJ's so the t-case is further forward which also makes the front driveshaft short and the rear longer. The t-case bell crank tub side bracket is the same and the difference is made up with the bracket on the trans and the two linkage rods.
The bolts that hold the trans to the block are not the same as what holds the manual to the block and you need the motor plate with inspection cover for the plate.
It may have been mentioned but I skimmed a lot of it, but use ONLY a Mopar radiator with the auto trans cooler built into it. If it hasn't been done in awhile, now is a good time to do a flush and get some new coolant in there while you are doing the radiator swap.
The absolute hardest part of the swap is loosening the exhaust so you can snake the cooler lines between it and the oil pan. Try not to cobble together the cooler lines and only use OEM if possible. There is a check valve in one of them that prevents torque convertor drain back which delays the shift into gear after it sits overnight.
If you don't locate a PCM in time before the swap is complete, you can run it with the manual PCM. It will throw a CEL at key on start position due to not seeing the TCC lock-up circuit. It will run well enough to test the trans. Don't run it like that for long as the CEL will stay on and it may need to be on for something else that is more important that you won't know about.
The trans requires ATF+4 fluid and roughly 10-12 quarts of it. Now is a good time to do a deep pan swap and replace the grommet at the base of the dipstick tube where it enters the trans. They tend to dry out if the trans has been sitting and will weep. If you notice any holes in the trans where the pan bolts up that are a bit wonky, I have some Timeserts I use to fix them. They tend to strip out very easily in the cast aluminum. Use the re-useable pan gasket that is the hard plastic with the raised ribs. They work perfectly every time and are worth the money. The deep pan uses a drop down extension for the filter so don't get a deep pan kit without one. While you have the pan off, weld a bung in it for a temp sensor and run a temp gauge. You will or should use a small cooler in front of the radiator to aid with cooling the auto and plumb it in series with the return to the trans from the OEM radiator.
There are two sets of bolts you need at the back of the motor. The first set is the flex plate to flywheel place bolts. They are lower profile but not what you would consider low profile and you can't substitute normal grade 8 bolts for two reasons. The first is the oddball length and the second is they are place bolts with a special head configuration to prevent loosening when torqued correctly.
The second set of bolts holds the torque convertor to the flex plate and they need to be the ones designed for that application as well for similar reasons.
As far as the wiring goes, you may or may not have the short adapter to hook up the harness for the NSS and TCC switch for lock up.
The 2002 need to have the harness from Vintage Parts purchased and used. It will plug into the adapter harness that the reverse light switch plugs into for the manual. Other years just have the correct harness folded back and taped in place.
You will also need the firewall block off plate for the clutch slave and master. Don't get sucked into the higher prices on Ebay, it is about a 10 dollar part at the dealer.
For the center console, you will need the auto shifter floor plate for the auto and the shift indicator bezel. The bulb holder is taped back along the harness under there and a 194 bulb will need to be plugged into it and then stuffed into the bottom of the bezel to light up the selector when the dash lights are on.
The auto shifter can be had at the dealer or Davey's and you will need a new shifter cable. The one from a Cherokee will work but I don't recommend it. The TJ version has a section of heat wrap on it where it goes by the exhaust manifold and the XJ version doesn't which cooks the cable housing and then it will break.
A TV or kick down cable will need to be installed. When you install it, you also remove the return helper spring from the throttle body lever and discard it. The TV cable has a spring on it at the trans bracket.
When you install the new trans mount, you will need the square adapter plate that bolts to the trans skid. The bolt holes are there and use carriage bolts pointed up with the nuts on top. It mounts over the other set of holes in the skid that the manual mount is not using.
The actual trans mount is the same but the adapter plates that bolt it up to the trans are different between the two.
The t-case shifter needs to match the one from the trans due to the different lengths. The 32 is the shortest trans Jeep used in the 6 cylinder TJ's so the t-case is further forward which also makes the front driveshaft short and the rear longer. The t-case bell crank tub side bracket is the same and the difference is made up with the bracket on the trans and the two linkage rods.
The bolts that hold the trans to the block are not the same as what holds the manual to the block and you need the motor plate with inspection cover for the plate.
It may have been mentioned but I skimmed a lot of it, but use ONLY a Mopar radiator with the auto trans cooler built into it. If it hasn't been done in awhile, now is a good time to do a flush and get some new coolant in there while you are doing the radiator swap.
The absolute hardest part of the swap is loosening the exhaust so you can snake the cooler lines between it and the oil pan. Try not to cobble together the cooler lines and only use OEM if possible. There is a check valve in one of them that prevents torque convertor drain back which delays the shift into gear after it sits overnight.
If you don't locate a PCM in time before the swap is complete, you can run it with the manual PCM. It will throw a CEL at key on start position due to not seeing the TCC lock-up circuit. It will run well enough to test the trans. Don't run it like that for long as the CEL will stay on and it may need to be on for something else that is more important that you won't know about.
The trans requires ATF+4 fluid and roughly 10-12 quarts of it. Now is a good time to do a deep pan swap and replace the grommet at the base of the dipstick tube where it enters the trans. They tend to dry out if the trans has been sitting and will weep. If you notice any holes in the trans where the pan bolts up that are a bit wonky, I have some Timeserts I use to fix them. They tend to strip out very easily in the cast aluminum. Use the re-useable pan gasket that is the hard plastic with the raised ribs. They work perfectly every time and are worth the money. The deep pan uses a drop down extension for the filter so don't get a deep pan kit without one. While you have the pan off, weld a bung in it for a temp sensor and run a temp gauge. You will or should use a small cooler in front of the radiator to aid with cooling the auto and plumb it in series with the return to the trans from the OEM radiator.
Correctly, if the TC has any sludge in it, that will settle and harden. It won't move easily and then can become a weight that throws off the balance.
Transmission mounts are all the same from 97-06. What is not the same is how they get adapted between the transmission and belly skid. Up through 02 with a manual, the bolt right to the bottom of the trans and land on the skid plate formed crossmember. The auto has a roughly square adapter that bolts to the forward formed section on the belly skid and then the transmission mount bolts to that.
Anti-drain back valve is generally required so you don't have to wait for the torque converter to charge when you put it in gear.
So these are the lines I got from SS Tubes. They don't connect like the factory fittings, but they do include different size fittings that fit the same holes. My concern is the missing check valve as these don't have one. I need to try and source new lines I think.
I'm surprised that this isn't more common knowledge. Apparently you can get a shift kit and do some mods to the valve body that eliminate the need for the drain back valve.
I've got my rusted out 2000 Sahara sitting in my yard with a 32RH. My plan is to also eventually do a swap.
Meanwhile if you need pictures or if you need a part in a pinch let me know.
-Mac
Meanwhile if you need pictures or if you need a part in a pinch let me know.
-Mac
The other possible option from my research is a check valve that is added in line between the steel line and the hose. I just can't find any true OEM replacement lines. Everything is similar to what I already have.
The drainback valve keeps the TC charged. If it's not there the TC empties out and you get the "won't go into gear after it sits for a while" problem. Idling in N for a minute charges the TC and makes it all better. Sonnax makes a few valves that address it, although I haven't installed any of them. The easy one is the manual valve, which allows the TC to charge while in park. This valve is a direct replacement, but you do have to disassemble the hardest part of the VB to do it. Which doesn't mean it's hard, just that it's the hardest of all those steps. It also seems to imply that the OEM valve does not flow to the cooler in park either. I really need to do this mod just to say I've done it. Whether or not this is a suitable substitute for a missing/broken check valve, I can't say.
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1835-manual-valve
Sonnax says the manual valve can be installed by itself, but for maximum benefit they recommend replacing the pressure regulator valve, which also plays a role in TC filling. The trick with this one is that you need to adjust the line pressure screw to make it work correctly.
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1840-lube-regulated-pressure-regulator-valve
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1835-manual-valve
Sonnax says the manual valve can be installed by itself, but for maximum benefit they recommend replacing the pressure regulator valve, which also plays a role in TC filling. The trick with this one is that you need to adjust the line pressure screw to make it work correctly.
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1840-lube-regulated-pressure-regulator-valve
^^^ proxy quote via hosejockey
I had a question, but then I realized what you were saying. In case anybody else is dumb like me, you're not saying having it on long term could cause a transmission problem. You're saying it could mask some other issue like a misfire because you're conditioned to ignore the CEL.
because none of us are alread conditioned to ignore the CEL....
I'd do this before I tore into the valve body. Especially since it is a Mopar part, it is how they came from the factory, and it works. Doesn't hurt that this is probably the cheapest auto trans part we've ever seen, or very close to it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1470385427...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
I don't ignore things like that, ever. I don't ignore leaks, clunks, clicks, pops, MILs, and similar. Just can't do it.because none of us are alread conditioned to ignore the CEL....
If I missed this, apologies. When we are routing the lines in and out of the radiator and through a cooler, we typically need to know which is the out and then the return. The 32 is one of easier to identify which is which. The out line is higher pressure so it has a flare fitting. The return has used up the pressure going through the cooler(s) so it is much lower pressure so they used the quick disconnect style fitting where you just squeeze the tabs and pull the line out. Works the same as the fuel line at the pump and several other places.
That said, it is very common for the front port to let that hard line flare nut turn the fitting in the trans, twist the hard line and kink or ruin it. You are replacing it but others may not know what needs to be done.
If you use alignment bolts to mount the trans, pop that bracket off that is trapping the bellhousing bolt. I have long bolts that I've cut the heads off of and slotted the ends of. I screw those into the 3 and 9 o:clock holes in the back of the motor to aid in lining up the trans.
Any reason to not use a double barbed style like this? The SS Tubes I have just use an oetiker clamp for the hose. This style would allow me to use a short rubber piece of hose between the tube and valve. I would need to put a heat shield around it to protect it from the exhaust.
I tried to get the lines off intact and the fittings were just stuck on there too tight. The cooler line will twist in a second. Tough to get, even with a wrench on the fitting that goes into the housing to hold it in place.
Not for nothing but using Oetiker clamps on SS braided hose is pretty retarded. Either use the screw on ends that convert them to something you can deal with or make your own. I specifically converted to the SS versions so I could cut their ends off and silver braze on -6 AN male. I can send you a couple of flareless bite fittings that will do it without brazing.
That said, I have no experience with those check valves. Barb bothers me when I can do something else unless it is a push lock AN that winds up being non-removable once installed and they are.
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