What kind of electrical issue? What, precisely, would be the red flags, if you can narrow it down?
Vimetal Baja Overland Trailer?
- Thread starter TJMexico
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What kind of electrical issue? What, precisely, would be the red flags, if you can narrow it down?
My old bosses daughter had a new 2003 WJ . Continual problems with , dash gauges , ignition , power windows , HVAC . She sold it at a loss to get out of it because she couldn't pay for a new car that lived in the shop waiting on warranty repairs that didn't correct the issues . It was shocking how bad it was , maybe some are fine , but this left a mark in my mind as a problem child vehicle. I hope you find something that will work for you !
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Wiring in the doors is prone to cracking.
The joint where the door opens/closes is where they crack.
Pretty easy fix and there are kits out there for it now for around $20.
I had to fix mine.
Easy way to spot it is to open the door and try the power windows and locks while slowly opening/closing the door to see if anything glitches.
That's really the only electrical issue I had on mine.
Also the LED indicators in the heated seats switch goes out.
Yeah, I don´t think I´d touch a WJ past about 2000. And a Laredo trim in those years (if I am not mistaken that that is the base trim model).
The fancier features of the Grand is what does make me steer away from them and like the XJ better.
I had the same issue on my TJ. It had aftermarket electric windows installed. (I didn't even realize that those were not stock.). The moron who had installed them used bits and pieces of wire the he found on the shop room floor to connect them, actually different gauges in the same run, so I had to replace the wire into the door. I sued 16ga. domestic wire as it had a nice thick insulation layer. (And it was all I could get at the moment here in the village.) Hooked it up with some spade connectors and it's all good now.
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/mini-harbor-freight-type-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread.1180456/
See if this works. It is a long thread, but once you get through it you'll know everything you need to know to build one of your own. Let me know if I can answer any questions.
That link works.
Thanks!
I already have a trailer that is constantly in progress, but always looking for ideas to make it better.
As with anything, there are pluses and minuses to the trailer.
Overall, the pluses far outweigh the minuses, especially when the vehicle is a TJ.
I sometimes mount my RTT to my truck instead of the trailer depending on where I'm going/what I'm doing. Storage is a non-issue when using the truck.
The pluses to the trailer are all the extra storage and also a much lower entry height to the RTT. Climbing down a long ladder is no fun for a midnight potty break.
The minuses to the trailer are mainly security of your trailer and stuff if you leave it to go trail riding. This is not really an issue in a park but can be if you're just camping off the grid.
With the RTT on the truck, you have to break everything down to go trail riding but all your stuff is with you.
When we're in a campground, we always take the trailer.
That leaves the vehicle free to run to the store, explore, or whatever else you want to do.
I have a receiver hitch on the trailer so I can mount my bike rack and take the e-bike for getting around the campground.
Does it have brakes? (Sorry if you already mentioned that. Lots of activity and I can't keep track.)
What kind of axle does it have?
It has a Dexter 3500# axle.
It has the mounts for the brakes but I haven't added them yet. They are on my "To Do" list for it.
It came with 5x4.75 lug pattern but I added wheel adapters to get the same 5x5 pattern I'm running on my TJ.
That way I have matching wheels on the trailer too.
FYI, when you set the brakes up, you can order 5x5 drum/hubs so you can use the wheels without adapters. E-trailer has an in house brand that I've used that is pretty solid:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKHD-550-35-EZ-K.html
I'm also using the spacers to place the tires at the edge of the fenders.
While you can get hubs/drums with matching bolt patterns, be aware. Trailer hubs have a center that sticks out. Your Jeep's wheel's may not have a center hole large enough for the hub to pass through. So you might have to add spacers or adapters, so measure carefully if ordering axles.
I've got three vehicles that can pull my trailer. Trailer has 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. And my one vehicle that matches (TJ) has big heavy 33" tires. For me it is easier to just carry a matching spare on the trailer 235.75.15 so no matter what's pulling it, I've got a matching spare.
Jeep in picture has a 5 on 5" bolt pattern and 35" tires. Even if I wanted to do it, I'm not putting heavy 35" tires on the trailer.
Now to get on my soapbox. No matter what hub/drums assembly you're running, carry in the trailer a complete hub/drum assembly fully lubed seal installed and ready to go. And a new set of hub spindle nuts, and a large socket for the spindle nuts. I'd also add a file, a roll of emery cloth, and a chisel. I've had to replace a brake hub far from home. I was glad I had what I needed (and yes, I needed the chisel and emery cloth). You don't want to have to leave your trailer somewhere while trying to hunt down parts or tools.
A 5 on 4.5" hub/brake assembly is the "standard" size for 3500lb axles. You can find them pretty much anyplace that sells axle stuff (ie: TSC, Northern Tool and Equipment, etc.). Anything different is usually custom order. So if you're going with a different bolt pattern, you definitely want a spare hub/brake assembly (and mentioned accessories) in your trailer, not at home on a shelf.
I've got three vehicles that can pull my trailer. Trailer has 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. And my one vehicle that matches (TJ) has big heavy 33" tires. For me it is easier to just carry a matching spare on the trailer 235.75.15 so no matter what's pulling it, I've got a matching spare.
Jeep in picture has a 5 on 5" bolt pattern and 35" tires. Even if I wanted to do it, I'm not putting heavy 35" tires on the trailer.
Now to get on my soapbox. No matter what hub/drums assembly you're running, carry in the trailer a complete hub/drum assembly fully lubed seal installed and ready to go. And a new set of hub spindle nuts, and a large socket for the spindle nuts. I'd also add a file, a roll of emery cloth, and a chisel. I've had to replace a brake hub far from home. I was glad I had what I needed (and yes, I needed the chisel and emery cloth). You don't want to have to leave your trailer somewhere while trying to hunt down parts or tools.
A 5 on 4.5" hub/brake assembly is the "standard" size for 3500lb axles. You can find them pretty much anyplace that sells axle stuff (ie: TSC, Northern Tool and Equipment, etc.). Anything different is usually custom order. So if you're going with a different bolt pattern, you definitely want a spare hub/brake assembly (and mentioned accessories) in your trailer, not at home on a shelf.
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100% agree, both failures on my camper have been hub/brake assembly related and heeding this advice would have made a very fast roadside swap possible.
Also confirm that your trail jack (whatever that is) is capable of lifting the trailer. Not as big of a deal with a solid axle, but my independent long travel Timbren setup would necessitate a Hi-Lift if I didn't have frame mounted jacks on it.
alittleoff
TJ Addict
Another nod to Dexter Axles.
When I built my trail/trash trailer in 1990, I had a 6 bolt pattern that matched my old FJ-40.
Then when the TJ came to me in 2004, I switched to the 5 - 5.5 drums to match the TJ.
When I built my trail/trash trailer in 1990, I had a 6 bolt pattern that matched my old FJ-40.
Then when the TJ came to me in 2004, I switched to the 5 - 5.5 drums to match the TJ.
I could have wrote that post verbatim about my own '02 WJ V8.
I don't understand your comment.
When shopping for a spare hub/brake assembly, shop around, do your research and get the best you can. Those are the only moving parts on a trailer that can leave you stranded (ok, you can argue the suspension technically moves).
But in a pinch, a new loaded and lubed Chinese hub and bearing set beats a wasted hub/brake assembly. It'll get you back on the road/trail.
And (since I can't shut up about it) trying to go cheap and carrying just a set of bearings and a seal won't cut it. When my assembly went tits, it wallered out the center of the brake assembly. There was no way I could get a bearing to seat in there. It was trash. Fortunately I had a loaded spare brake assembly. I had to chisel off the part of the bearing that tried to weld itself on the axle stub, and file down the axle stub and then use the emery cloth to finish it so the new bearings would slide on.
Once I got back on the road, as soon as I could find a place to get a replacement brake assembly I did. It was a Northern Tool and Equipment place, and they had brake assemblies on the shelf, and their only bolt pattern was the standard 5 on 4.5" which I was running.
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I'm asking where the axle / hub / bearings were built .
My brother -in -law had a new ski boat with a tandem axle trailer, when it was 2 years old the walking beam casting literally broke into pieces driving down the road. The Chi-Com axle suspension completely failed with less than 800 miles on it .
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