32RH Transmission Swap From AX-15
- Thread starter hosejockey61
- Start date
The 3 pin apex 2.8 is for the vehicle speed sensor. The 4 pin apex 2.8 is for the manual reverse light switch/auto neutral safety switch.
You’ll need to make a pigtail from that 4 pin to the NSS.
You’ll need to make a pigtail from that 4 pin to the NSS.
Your donor Tran is of a different year range where the NSS and the TCC lock up were combined into a large apex connector.
Your harness is different but everything is there.
Your harness is different but everything is there.
What you haven’t shown us that you’ve found is the 2 pin for the TCC lock up on your jeep harness. It looks exactly like the 2 pin on your trans plugged into the TCC lock up.
From the trans itself, it doesn’t care. I think 97s had a different NSS but that’s it. The pigtail harness up to that 6 pin apex is different than what your jeep harness has, but it’s the same 5 wires that just need to go to the right places.
Made a lot of progress on the Jeep today. As far as the wiring goes, it's all there in the harness. The TCC plug is there. I undid the bundle on the transmission so I could see and understand everything better. The only thing I have to do is take the NSS wires out of the 6 pin and put them in the 4 pin pigtail that went to the back up switch on the AX-15 so it will plug into the harness.
I cut my crossmember brackets off before installing the transmission since they were easy to get to.
Installed the spacer, flex plate, and stiffener.
Installed the spacer, flex plate, and stiffener.
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Then I put the torque converter into the transmission. First, make sure you put as much ATF+4 in the torque converter as you can. When you put the torque converter on the input shaft, you have to make sure it seats all the way. It slides on, but you have to rotate and wiggle until it engages the pump gear. There should be about 1/2"space from the plane of the bell housing to the face of the bolt hole on the torque converter.
Next up, I mounted the transmission to the motor. It mated far easier than the others we've done. Installed the four bolts to the torque converter, installed the CPS, dipstick tube, and starter.
Some years back, I did the same swap. Had it not been Blane and a great transmission buddy of his, and several others I never would have been able to do it in my carport.
I’ll tell ya those 32RH transmission are one tough trans.
It does help that all the wiring connectors are just laying a top of the transmission. My 97 along with others are prepped for both auto and manual when coming down the assembly line. My junk yard 32RH did have to be rebuilt
but at least I know it’s right now !
I did do a super short SYE , Adams drive shaft ,& belly up kit .as well as a ford 8.8 with C clip illuminator and 4.88 gears.
Man looking back on that now sure does seem like a dream. Without the tremendous help from this great group of folks, I would have never been able to do it. I did have an OX locker installed. setting up gears and installing the OX IS SOMETHIng I could not do myself.
I do love the auto on trails as well as around town.
I’ll tell ya those 32RH transmission are one tough trans.
It does help that all the wiring connectors are just laying a top of the transmission. My 97 along with others are prepped for both auto and manual when coming down the assembly line. My junk yard 32RH did have to be rebuilt
but at least I know it’s right now ! I did do a super short SYE , Adams drive shaft ,& belly up kit .as well as a ford 8.8 with C clip illuminator and 4.88 gears.
Man looking back on that now sure does seem like a dream. Without the tremendous help from this great group of folks, I would have never been able to do it. I did have an OX locker installed. setting up gears and installing the OX IS SOMETHIng I could not do myself.
I do love the auto on trails as well as around town.
That’s something I never did but wish I had on my swap.
I just never go through deep water.
I removed the NSS wires from the 6 pin connector and installed them into the 4 pin connector that originally went to the back up switch. I got the cooler lines installed but not yet plumbed to the radiator. Hooked up the shifter cable as well. Then I hooked up the front half of my exhaust to see if there would be any interference issues. Looks good so I pulled it back off and moved on to the crossmember.
Blaine said that would be PITA project with the 32RH being shorter. The thing to watch out for is the front drive shaft double cardan joint interfering with the crossmember. I put the 241 in with a couple of nuts to hold it in place so I could start figuring things out. Before pulling everything apart for the project, I took some measurements of where the rear t-case yoke was positioned. I got it back to that exact spot. I placed my existing crossmember up there to take a look, and yeah, that ain't happening! I cut the old bracket off of it and started experimenting some more.
One thing I did discover is that I'll need a new front drive shaft as mine is just about 1/2" too long now.
Blaine said that would be PITA project with the 32RH being shorter. The thing to watch out for is the front drive shaft double cardan joint interfering with the crossmember. I put the 241 in with a couple of nuts to hold it in place so I could start figuring things out. Before pulling everything apart for the project, I took some measurements of where the rear t-case yoke was positioned. I got it back to that exact spot. I placed my existing crossmember up there to take a look, and yeah, that ain't happening! I cut the old bracket off of it and started experimenting some more.
One thing I did discover is that I'll need a new front drive shaft as mine is just about 1/2" too long now.
Yesterday was a little about some small stuff like hooking up wiring, vent line, O2 sensor, speedo wire. A lot of the day was spent on figuring out my crossmember. As you saw in the previous pictures, what I had wasn't going to work. So I cut the mounting plate off and started from scratch. With the CM needing to move forward just a little bit, I had to cut the mounting tabs off the frame and relocate them. It was a bunch of fit up, measuring, checking for clearance, tacking in place and re-checking everything. Rinse and repeat a few times to make sure it was as good as I could get it.
Things to look out for when doing this is the relationship of the DC joint for the front driveshaft. If you're not careful, the crossmember can interfere with it. I didn't have that issue, but I discovered that I'll need a new front driveshaft as mine is just a tad bit too long now. You also need to ensure your exhaust setup doesn't contact the transmission. I have to relocate the hanger mount is all which will be easy. Lastly, the transfer case moves forward about a 1/2" or so but the skid plate doesn't. Be sure the t-case doesn't contact anything on the skid. I have an old Rokmen skid that I cut everything out and then added a piece of angle iron as a stiffener. Everything still clears.
All I have left now is finishing the cooler lines, installing the TV cable, and hooking up the new temperature gauge. I THINK that's all I have left before moving onto the filling procedure. I'll double check everything before I move on.
Things to look out for when doing this is the relationship of the DC joint for the front driveshaft. If you're not careful, the crossmember can interfere with it. I didn't have that issue, but I discovered that I'll need a new front driveshaft as mine is just a tad bit too long now. You also need to ensure your exhaust setup doesn't contact the transmission. I have to relocate the hanger mount is all which will be easy. Lastly, the transfer case moves forward about a 1/2" or so but the skid plate doesn't. Be sure the t-case doesn't contact anything on the skid. I have an old Rokmen skid that I cut everything out and then added a piece of angle iron as a stiffener. Everything still clears.
All I have left now is finishing the cooler lines, installing the TV cable, and hooking up the new temperature gauge. I THINK that's all I have left before moving onto the filling procedure. I'll double check everything before I move on.
That crossmember doesn’t (bolt to the transmission) does it?wont that break the housing?oh or you using this as a the transmission mount instead of the skid.
The crossmember bolts to the transmission mount. The isolators are at the frame. The skid is just a skid, not a mount.
Back in the saddle! Successful rocket surgery completed! Having never been on the inside of a transmission before, it's very intimidating to say the least. I'm usually one who when I do it the first time then I'm good after that. And that's no difference here. The valve body came out easily with the help of Craig to get me through things that weren't going the way I thought this should be going. I don't recommend learning the hard way, it's pretty stressful.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program....
View attachment 680222
That was a great recovery with the valve body! Nice job.
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