Not out of the woods yet. I still don't know if the transmission is even good. The risk one takes with buying from the junkyard. I have a mini back up plan if this ends up being a problem, we'll see.
32RH Transmission Swap From AX-15
- Thread starter hosejockey61
- Start date
Not out of the woods yet. I still don't know if the transmission is even good. The risk one takes with buying from the junkyard. I have a mini back up plan if this ends up being a problem, we'll see.
I go the TV cable installed. There are very few partial references on how it should be run or secured other than it goes over the top of the transmission and up the passenger side. I kept it close to the dipstick tube and up and over the valve cover securing it in the bracket on the valve cover.
I also got my new driveshaft ordered, the rear driveshaft installed, my exhaust hanger mounted, the block off plate installed, and installed a lubelocker transmission pan gasket. Today I'll be working on my in the cab stuff and get it cleaned up.
Once my cooler line parts get here, I'll get them installed and start the fluid filling process.
Speaking of the front driveshaft, one issue mentioned by Blaine was that a person doing this swap might need a smaller diameter shaft tube. The reason is that under articulation, the shaft could potentially swing over and take out the NSS connector. I pulled my front springs and cycled my suspension to check. Even though I can't get my driveshaft installed (too long), I held it up in line to visualize whether I would have this issue or not. Mine comes to within about 3/4" to an 1". I spoke with Shawn at Tom Wood's and he doesn't recall having to make smaller driveshafts for this situation. Their standard tube size is 2" and the next smaller size would be 1.25". I went with the standard 2" and am not anticipating any issues.
I hate being this close to a phenomenal trip and not even knowing if this transmission works. Fingers crossed.
I also got my new driveshaft ordered, the rear driveshaft installed, my exhaust hanger mounted, the block off plate installed, and installed a lubelocker transmission pan gasket. Today I'll be working on my in the cab stuff and get it cleaned up.
Once my cooler line parts get here, I'll get them installed and start the fluid filling process.
Speaking of the front driveshaft, one issue mentioned by Blaine was that a person doing this swap might need a smaller diameter shaft tube. The reason is that under articulation, the shaft could potentially swing over and take out the NSS connector. I pulled my front springs and cycled my suspension to check. Even though I can't get my driveshaft installed (too long), I held it up in line to visualize whether I would have this issue or not. Mine comes to within about 3/4" to an 1". I spoke with Shawn at Tom Wood's and he doesn't recall having to make smaller driveshafts for this situation. Their standard tube size is 2" and the next smaller size would be 1.25". I went with the standard 2" and am not anticipating any issues.
I hate being this close to a phenomenal trip and not even knowing if this transmission works. Fingers crossed.
That's a great offer, but we're many states away
. And no, I'm not doing a tranny swap out there 
That's a great offer, but we're many states away
It's Oregon. We do transmission swaps here.
What your saying has a completely different meaning.
I could bring the transmission to Sand Hollow or I could drive it to Colorado. Options if you need it.
-Mac
As one who has their NSS relocated to the dash, I am acutely aware of the issue. I also have a few buddies with 97's who bought them new, the original driveshaft was the same diameter as the one in the manual trans rigs. Both of them wound up replacing them with smaller diameters to keep them off the side of the trans pan seal lips. Later, we observed that Jeep had reduced the diameter for the 32 shafts from the factory.
Got everything done. I didn't install the anti drain back valve yet as I didn't have everything I needed yet. I just hooked up the hoses to the lines and radiator.
Started it up..... No odd sounds! I get out and look underneath for any leaks and there are none!
I get back in and shift through the gears...... No odd sounds! Great! Get out and add more ATF.
Look underneath again and find fluid on the ground. It's coming from the bell housing
Looks like a new pump seal is in order. The thing that sucks most is that the entire transmission needs to be disconnected from everything and dropped.
But at least it sounded good when running. That takes some pressure off at least.
Started it up..... No odd sounds! I get out and look underneath for any leaks and there are none!
I get back in and shift through the gears...... No odd sounds! Great! Get out and add more ATF.
Look underneath again and find fluid on the ground. It's coming from the bell housing
Looks like a new pump seal is in order. The thing that sucks most is that the entire transmission needs to be disconnected from everything and dropped.
But at least it sounded good when running. That takes some pressure off at least.
I don't know. My bore scope won't fit to take a look. I ran it again and it was puking quite a bit in reverse. The forward gears didn't leak as bad.
Do these tend to puke fluid when filling them after they've been empty? With all the hard work done and everything in place, I went ahead and pulled the transmission out anyway. I used my broken one to experiment with pulling the pump. Super easy so I'm just going to do the vent relocation while I'm in there. The seal and gasket should be here in a couple of days. I work the next two, so it works out.
Anything else with pulling the pump? I did it once without tightening the band down and one with. Felt the same, so I'm not sure if there's a reason to do it.
After finding the fluid running out, I decided to just pull the tranny back out and replace the seal. Waiting on parts. I don't see anything very obvious with the seal indicating it would leak that bad.
If it's puking out the vent, what would cause that?
If it's puking out the vent, what would cause that?
This is the seal kit I ordered. I didn't think about the O ring being a possibility as the source of the leak. With it being a remanned transmission, I would think not, but who knows.
Based on what I see in those pics, it looks like it's the seal. Nothing from the vent hole, and nothing around the perimeter of the pump. Make sure you lube up the seal & snout of the TC before you mount it. Probably check the snout to make sure its smooth too.
As far as tightening the band first, it holds the big drum in place. If you're working vertically, it almost certainly won't be a problem. If it's laying horizontally, then the direct drum wants to sag, which could misalign those clutches. The band adjustment is a piece of cake if you have the transmission out of the jeep, so I would definitely do that. If the clutches unalign then you're *this* close to just replacing the clutches, which is like 90% of a rebuild. Honestly with the pump out you're like 89% of the way there.
As far as tightening the band first, it holds the big drum in place. If you're working vertically, it almost certainly won't be a problem. If it's laying horizontally, then the direct drum wants to sag, which could misalign those clutches. The band adjustment is a piece of cake if you have the transmission out of the jeep, so I would definitely do that. If the clutches unalign then you're *this* close to just replacing the clutches, which is like 90% of a rebuild. Honestly with the pump out you're like 89% of the way there.
I am not aware of the differences between the AW-4 and 32 pumps. What I do know is we did an AW-4 swap using the customer supplied trans which came from a local well known Jeep parts breaker and mod shop. It was sold as known good. Like you, we made lots of sad noises when we started it and fluid pumped out the bellhousing. Like you, we quickly dropped the trans and popped in a new pump seal.
Made zero difference. A call to Joe and he explained there is a bushing in the pump that stops the converter from wobbling and taking out the seal.
That's all just to say that I wish I knew a better way to check so you only do this once.
Good information, thanks. This kit comes with that bushing it looks like, so I'll take a look. The nice thing is that I have the broken transmission to explore and practice on.
We did too, it was just in the vehicle.
Could one bench test the transmission on a spare engine?
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