Getting drag link off pitman arm

Chippy

TJ Enthusiast
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Jun 24, 2025
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Tampa, FL
Doing the ZJ swap on my TJ and I can’t get the drag link tie rod end off the pitman arm. This might be a stupid question, but do I have to remove the joints at the wheels first? It got to the point where my tool is bending.

Everything else is still connected and I thought I could remove this first. Feel like an idiot if you have to pop the other tie rod ends loose first though.

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Try giving the pitman arm some taps with a ball peen hammer. Heat might help. And lube.

-Mac

I already sprayed the crap out of it with blaster and liquid wrench and tapped on it when I had a ton of pressure on it with the tie rod tool. No luck. Hoping I don’t have to end up removing the pitman arm or something
 
Put the nut back on because stuff will go flying when it lets go
I use that same tool, I run it tight with an impact and it usually pops loose but sometimes it takes a couple whacks with a small sledge on the end of the joint tool
 
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A lot of the time a prybar and a hammer is all you need. But for the sake of being gentle with the steering box I use a c shaped puller and light taps with a hammer.your puller looks pretty wimpy

View attachment 684595

I have one of these too, there’s a line right above it though so I don’t think this will fit
 
Will using the pickle fork damage the steering box?

Also.. is there any specific order I’m supposed to be removing the steering system? I removed the steering stabilizer and then I was moving to the drag link at the pitman arm
 
Will using the pickle fork damage the steering box?

Also.. is there any specific order I’m supposed to be removing the steering system? I removed the steering stabilizer and then I was moving to the drag link at the pitman arm

It certainly could if you beat the hell out it bottomed out.

Make sure the fork is wide enough to completely miss the shaft of the BJ, and thick enough to not bottom out on the shaft. Just hit the fork hard enough to make some progress, think tapping with the BFH, not trying to win a carnival game. If the fork stops making progress it's probably bottomed out, make sure you stop and reassess.

Leave the nut spun on the top of the ball joint a thread or two so it doesn't go flying once the taper breaks.

If you are concerned it's taking too much force, you can always pull the pitman.
 
It certainly could if you beat the hell out it bottomed out.

Make sure the fork is wide enough to completely miss the shaft of the BJ, and thick enough to not bottom out on the shaft. Just hit the fork hard enough to make some progress, think tapping with the BFH, not trying to win a carnival game. If the fork stops making progress it's probably bottomed out, make sure you stop and reassess.

Leave the nut spun on the top of the ball joint a thread or two so it doesn't go flying once the taper breaks.

If you are concerned it's taking too much force, you can always pull the pitman.

Thanks. I think I’m going to try to add a small amount of heat with a map pro torch being careful not to heat the steering box, then try to use the hammer and the fork. Wild it’s in there with that much force that my tool bent. Frustrating
 
Thanks. I think I’m going to try to add a small amount of heat with a map pro torch being careful not to heat the steering box, then try to use the hammer and the fork. Wild it’s in there with that much force that my tool bent. Frustrating

Those tools are usually pretty low quality. On the rare times that I've used that style,I put pressure on the joint with the tool and smack both sides of the arm or whatever it is on with 2 large hammers, usually a 3lb and a 4lb sledge.
 
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I got it! I was pretty sick the last few days but finally felt good enough to go try again.

I warrantied the puller tool that bent and got a new set for free. I heat up the pitman arm end a little bit and put about the max amount of tension on the new tool that I could before it started bending.

Then I just started taking my anger out on one side of the pitman arm with a hammer and it came right off.

So heat + lots of pressure + hammer was the key for me.

Hoping to get this thing back on the road soon.