Recent experiences with the Golen 4.6?

[adventureboss]

What experiences have people had recently with the Golen 4.6? The 4.0 in my TJ has been good for 250k miles but its finally showing its age with misfire issues, etc. and I’m considering a stroker to replace it.

I am concerned about reliability, but I heard Golen is one of the better options?

 

[JMT]

Calling @Woodrow

 

[Woodrow]

What experiences have people had recently with the Golen 4.6? The 4.0 in my TJ has been good for 250k miles but its finally showing its age with misfire issues, etc. and I’m considering a stroker to replace it.

I am concerned about reliability, but I heard Golen is one of the better options?

Calling @Woodrow

I installed a Golen stroker in 2021. Mine was purchased complete with covers, gaskets, a 62mm BBK throttle body and JBA header. It was an easy bolt in swap and runs well on a stock tune. Although its a nice bump in usable power and torque that the TJ really needs, don't expect a rocket or V8 swap like performance. The last time I dyno'ed mine with a tune and cowl intake, it made 173hp and 215ft lbs at the wheels (as compared to my 4.0 which made 136hp and 168 ft lbs at the wheels before the swap). Rated numbers at the crank are 181hp/222ft lbs, stock and Golen sent me a video of my motor pulling 280hp and 320ft lbs on an engine stand. I think the mfg numbers are realistic. Golen uses no accessories and a big spark advance of 36 degrees to get those numbers. Despite the numbers being a bit disappointing, I'm happy with the improved drivability. Reliability has been good over 5 years. I do have a RMS leak which is getting worse and will need addressed. Also, if you get a Golen, I recommend you make sure to get one built off of a NVH block. Mine is pre-NVH ('92 YJ) and noticeably noisier. If I was to go the stroker route again, these days I would build my own with help from a machine shop and experts like Russ Pottenger and/or Newcomer racing. Other members here like @SkylinesSuck, @GoldenGorilla and @Rickyd have some stroker knowledge and @macleanflood just completed a DIY 4.6L that I actually drove yesterday and sounded smooth and quiet.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I finally made my decisions for a DIY. Spent about a year learning HPTuners with my 4.0 so I could tune it myself. Technically I tried to push the 4.0L and figure out if I could get what I wanted in the stock displacement and determine the answer was no. And during that time I started diving deep into what the different performance options available would offer. I applied bolt on mods to my 4.0L and tuned it about as far as I think I can go. I also knew what I want my Jeep to do and that I wouldn't achieve that with the 4.0L displacement unless I went turbo and that would add complications where I live.

I was originally thinking I would do a 5.0L for the extra bit of low down torque/power the longer 4.060" stroke crank offers. All the bells and whistles, and a much bigger expense than a Golen/Titan/S&J 4.6L. You typically have to clearance the block a bit and always the oil pan for this setup. It's a bit more demanding. Not cheap, but numbers I could easily rationalize vs buying a new car.

I settled on Clegg Stage 2 9.3:1 using the standard 3.895" 4.2L crank. I'll be installing an Edelbrock head unmodified and Cometic 0.027 head gasket which will end up around 9.8:1 static compression. While this head isn't going to win any flow bench numbers, it is a big step up over a stock 0331 TUPY head on intake and exhaust CFM, plus a couple extra tenths of compression, better detonation resistance and more efficient combustion. It should improve power production in the 2000-4000rpm range I care about. This would allow me to leave the block deck height standard and bore standard, while bringing the quench height into a better range to support higher compression. Down the road I'll upgrade to a mild roller cam/roller lifters and refine the power production a bit more. I know I'm leaving something on the table. But it's also simple.

Starting with a good block and head, you could do this for like $1500-$1700 with the thinner gasket. Rough block and more prep work - probably $2500-$2700. Performance cam - add about $600-700. Ported head, LS valves, numbers start adding up quickly. But none of that comes with a warranty someone else handling the break in, etc...