A winch line cover for a M8000 would be a great idea
I have the Bartact cover but don't really love it
I have the Bartact cover but don't really love it
STICKY Share Your 3D Design Files (or Sell a DIY Part)
- Thread starter SSTJ
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Folded things "right" yesterday, definitely a difference!
I am curious - what do you do with your strap when it's closed? Do you just remove it entirely? Or somehow wrap it around the sportbar?
I purchased a cheap, small (about 6x4x2 in) molle pouch that I keep in the center console.
The pouch holds that strap, my phone mount, 12V USB charger and cable.
If you have a picture of this opening (my Dana 44 is out and apart right now, and I couldn't see what you mean), and assuming it's just a round hole that needs a plug, I can probably design something pretty quickly to try, and then if you provide feedback, I could tweak it until it worked for you.
Edited to add: I think I figured out what you're looking for. Is it a plug for this hole:
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I can't find the picture right now, but I used a large rubber foot that would go on the end of a pipe - think "cane foot", but larger. Got it at Ace. Wasn't my idea, someone else here on the forum did it first. They've been in place for years, no problems and lift right out when needbe.
Working on the design right now. Second, and I hope final, test print running now. Once I verify it's good-to-go, I'll post it.
Here's a zip file that contains a .3mf and a .stl file. If you'd like to see a write-up on the design of this piece, see my build thread.
wanted to add this. Its a replacement auto shifter bezel. Just the black trim part, the rest of the parts are not designed, and it would be tough to print the curved lens...but if you have a shifter cover that has broken tabs, this will work to replace it.
I'd recommend ABS or ASA material, PLA could melt in the interior of a car and there isn't any reason to go with any of the filled engineering fillaments. PETG may work also, but I've not done much with PETG. The tricky part (going on a few years since I actually made this) is removal of the parts you're keeping from the junk. IIRC, they are heat staked together. I included posts on the new design to use sheet metal screws to hold the assembly together.
I'd recommend ABS or ASA material, PLA could melt in the interior of a car and there isn't any reason to go with any of the filled engineering fillaments. PETG may work also, but I've not done much with PETG. The tricky part (going on a few years since I actually made this) is removal of the parts you're keeping from the junk. IIRC, they are heat staked together. I included posts on the new design to use sheet metal screws to hold the assembly together.
Here are some .STL files for center vents. These are meant to match up as close as possible to the OEM ones. I have yet to finish optimizing these as an assembly, but they are close. I have test printed these with PLA, the pivot point on the frame piece may need some tweaking to have proper tension. Here is a pic of them in Bambu Studio. Just clone the outer baffles, need 4 of them and 1 center baffle. Gear snaps onto center baffle, knob snaps into outer shell. Baffle tie bar is a tad too thick to be honest, needs to be adjusted so it doesn't pop off the baffles.
Anyways not too bad for a first couple rounds of editing. Enjoy.
Anyways not too bad for a first couple rounds of editing. Enjoy.
Just updated the original post. I think the list is up to date.
If anyone is rebuilding a Saginaw steering box, I found some 100mm ring clamps and scaled them to 2.75" & 2.00", the sizes needed to compress the teflon rings on the piston and spool valve, respectively. @hosejockey61 's method in his video works but with a 3-D printer at my disposal, why not make some effective tools with it. I printed with PETG @ 100% infill.
I made a 3d printed windstar intake for my 06 Rubicon and a Big air box inlet for my 5.2 swapped 99 TJ using the factory air box.
I also make and sell switch panels on Etsy, I may add a discount code for forum members.
If anyone wants one i would print them for the cost of materials.
Windstar intake link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345556
air box inlet link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345530
I also make and sell switch panels on Etsy, I may add a discount code for forum members.
If anyone wants one i would print them for the cost of materials.
Windstar intake link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345556
air box inlet link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345530
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What did you print the tube in?
My first concern, having thought about doing 3D parts on the intake side of the engine, is strength of the printed materials over molded.
I had the same question, and it's not just strength - it's strength at higher temps, since a TJ's engine compartment sees some higher temps...
Does anybody here have experience with Send Cut Send's sheet metal bending service? I am designing a part for a lawnmower, and SCS is complaining about relief cuts for each bend. No matter what I do it has the same complaint for every bend. Anybody willing to look at my file and tell me how bad it is and that I am an idiot, then provide some useful information or just fix it? I'll buy you a six pack of whatever good beer you like.
I printed then in nylon 6-12 carbon fiber and then bake it at 100°C for 16 hours. I think it was good for up to 450°F.
I've never used SCS but I have designed sheet metal parts for work. the only thing that jumps out is this bend here:
Try making the last tab with the hole narrower so that there is some straight portion after that bend. like this
Another tip is to use the same bend radius for all your bends in the same part. it looks like a different bend radius than the other bends.
good luck!
Try making the last tab with the hole narrower so that there is some straight portion after that bend. like this
Another tip is to use the same bend radius for all your bends in the same part. it looks like a different bend radius than the other bends.
good luck!
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