Not saying I never buried my TJ in Mud but when I did and only once that I had to change all the outer bearings, seals and the Hypo Fluid with a week or to later - I learned my lesson.
My rebuttal is that axle damage shown in them Pic's is the result of Mud Pupping, destroying the seal thus contaminating and seizing the bearing which in turn skids the bearing on the axle shaft and damaging it; yet, some Members profess that a 1541H Manganese Steel shaft is immune to this - I would say yes for a little time longer before you realize the bearing is shot. I say the composition of the axle shaft is NOT the cause of the damaged to the Axle shafts as shown in them Pic's. Hell I still have the stock OEM rear axles in my TJ after over 250,000 kilometers on her and YES I have changed the Outer Seals and Bearing a couple of times but have never damage to the bearing surfaces on the outer shaft. You're lucky the outer axle bearing tube housing isn't damaged as well. Changing Axle seals and Differential Lube regularly is a must if you Mud Puppy. I will risk bearing my axles in clean water a times but not Muddy Waters.
Just one Mud insurgence will cause damage not immediately but with in a few months if you do not change the Seals and Diff-Fluid.
By the way the damaged bearing doesn't have to be completely seized it just might start complaining while it pounds the axle and if you leaved it too long - OUCH !
Also answering as to who is selling manganese steel axles - It's in my post you quoted ;o)
Hey I'm 78 with a Class A Automotive License which I gave up paying dues for years ago and a JEEP is NOT the only ride I've owned.
My Hi-Mileage 2001 Jeep TJ Sport is not PRETTY and has some RUST and the frame is solid (Amazing for a Chrysler Product) but it's Mechanically Sound and doesn't burn a drop of oil between yearly Oil Changes regardless of the mileage I put on her. That AMC 4.0L 6 is all what Enthusiasts claim it to be.
Why do you think after all these years, people have been incorrect about what causes that type of damage to a cromoly axle shaft when used in a Dana 35? Why does that damage not occur with 1541H axlesl shafts?
Basically the difference is case hardening versus through hardening alloy steels. The 4000 series alloys are through hardening type which means if you get the surface hardness up high enough for a bearing to ride on it, the shaft is too brittle to be useful. If you don't get it hard enough, then the bearing wears a groove in it. 1541H is a higher strength than stock alloy and is a case hardenable material.
We don't need the technical side, it is easier to listen to idiots and let our gut change the metallurgy to force the shafts to work in our housings. For them that prefer a more truthful experience, the offering of 4000 series c-clip shafts by any company is a great litmus test to determine if that company knows what they are doing which allows one to ponder whether they are taking care of the customer or pandering to ignorance.
This right here is the technical explanation for why 1541H is the right choice. 1541H is essentially a medium carbon steel with some manganese added so that it can be hardened (that’s what the H on the end means). In the case of these axles, they are hardened on the surface to a very high hardness to act as the inner bearing race.
Anyone who specs a chrome molybdenum alloy for these shafts that act as a bearing race needs to take an introductory metallurgy class…
Occam's Razor. The simplest answer is most always correct. In this case, the reason you and so many others have so many miles on the stock shafts is because Dana knows they need a material that can be case hardened to create a hard surface for the Torrington style roller bearings to ride on. That also allows them to leave a more ductile core to handle torsional loads without fatigue failures.Hell I still have the stock OEM rear axles in my TJ after over 250,000 kilometers on her and YES I have changed the Outer Seals and Bearing a couple of times but have never damage to the bearing surfaces on the outer shaft.
You could have just started this by saying you were Canadian. We have a long history of dealing with folks from up there and across the board they are stubbornly willing to remain ignorant regardless of how sound the advice is.Hey I'm 78 with a Class A Automotive License which I gave up paying dues for years ago and a JEEP is NOT the only ride I've owned.
My Hi-Mileage 2001 Jeep TJ Sport is not PRETTY and has some RUST and the frame is solid (Amazing for a Chrysler Product) but it's Mechanically Sound and doesn't burn a drop of oil between yearly Oil Changes regardless of the mileage I put on her. That AMC 4.0L 6 is all what Enthusiasts claim it to be.
And to geek out a bit for purposes of education, here's Wikipedia's primer on the SAE steel classification system:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
You'll find everything on that page to decode all five digits of 1 5 4 1 H, and after you decode it, @AndyG, the forum policy enforcer, will issue you your junior metallurgist certification.![]()
Some of us learned it the hard way. Superior wanted a much higher strength u-joint with needle bearings in the caps. I did the one below and used the caps, needles, and seals from Spicer joints. They could buy them cheaper than they could buy the needles so they just robbed the caps and tossed the bodies in the scrap pile. The body is 4340 and it was a struggle to get the pins hard enough for the needles to ride on and then draw them back for some ductility in the core. As an engineer, you may appreciate the mitigation of the stress riser at the base of the pin to reduce cracks there.And to geek out a bit for purposes of education, here's Wikipedia's primer on the SAE steel classification system:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
You'll find everything on that page to decode all five digits of 1 5 4 1 H, and after you decode it, @AndyG, the forum policy enforcer, will issue you your junior metallurgist certification.![]()
My rebuttal is that axle damage shown in them Pic's is the result of Mud Pupping, destroying the seal thus contaminating and seizing the bearing which in turn skids the bearing on the axle shaft and damaging it; yet, some Members profess that a 1541H Manganese Steel shaft is immune to this - I would say yes for a little time longer before you realize the bearing is shot. I say the composition of the axle shaft is NOT the cause of the damaged to the Axle shafts as shown in them Pic's. Hell I still have the stock OEM rear axles in my TJ after over 250,000 kilometers on her and YES I have changed the Outer Seals and Bearing a couple of times but have never damage to the bearing surfaces on the outer shaft. You're lucky the outer axle bearing tube housing isn't damaged as well. Changing Axle seals and Differential Lube regularly is a must if you Mud Puppy. I will risk bearing my axles in clean water a times but not Muddy Waters.
Just one Mud insurgence will cause damage not immediately but with in a few months if you do not change the Seals and Diff-Fluid.
By the way the damaged bearing doesn't have to be completely seized it just might start complaining while it pounds the axle and if you leaved it too long - OUCH !
Also answering as to who is selling manganese steel axles - It's in my post you quoted ;o)
Hey I'm 78 with a Class A Automotive License which I gave up paying dues for years ago and a JEEP is NOT the only ride I've owned.
My Hi-Mileage 2001 Jeep TJ Sport is not PRETTY and has some RUST and the frame is solid (Amazing for a Chrysler Product) but it's Mechanically Sound and doesn't burn a drop of oil between yearly Oil Changes regardless of the mileage I put on her. That AMC 4.0L 6 is all what Enthusiasts claim it to be.
You assumed the damage is from a seized bearing, but its actually because the surface isn't hard enough to hold up to bearings riding on the shaft. Like I said in the first response to your original post.
Observation does not equal causation. Just because it doesn't agree with your view of things does not change the truth. The reason the groove is worn in the 4xxx series shaft is because it can't be made hard enough to function as a bearing race or, if it is, it winds up being as brittle as glass and very easily broken which fully negates the use of the material. 4xxx series alloys are through hardening which means whatever temper and hardness you bring the core up to, that will be the same through the whole diameter of the shaft.I saying it was not the fault of the shaft material, it started with a failed or failing bearing probably caused by leaking seals some time after a Mud Bath.
How dare you let the truth get in the way of going with your gut.
... I will heed your advice and reluctantly purchase the 1541H shafts over the chromoly axles driven by 5:13 Gears and Lunch Box Lockers understanding that the 1541H shafts may not handle that style of Locker especially if I accidentally Buck it too Hard ;o(
I'm build for Mountian Climbing NOT Mud Bathing.
I seem to be late to the Joust - I kinda over slept my afternoon nap ;o)
First of all I must thank all the Forum Members participating in my thread.
I do highly respect the Qualified Personal handing me advise and I am not dismissing it. We all can see the damage on the outer bearing surfaces of them Chromoly shafts; however, I saying it was not the fault of the shaft material, it started with a failed or failing bearing probably caused by leaking seals some time after a Mud Bath. Yes I agree that a 1541H Manganese Steel shaft will take more punishment under similar circumstances. With over 250,000 kilometers I have not damaged my stock axle shafts although I have muddy them once or twice but have always replaced the seals and bearing if required and changed out the Diff-Fluid shortly after a Muddy Encounter.
Given that the majority of TJ Forum Member recommend using 1541H Manganese Steel shafts over Chomoly in the Dana 35 rear End I will heed your advice and reluctantly purchase the 1541H shafts over the chromoly axles driven by 5:13 Gears and Lunch Box Lockers understanding that the 1541H shafts may not handle that style of Locker especially if I accidentally Buck it too Hard ;o(
I'm build for Mountian Climbing NOT Mud Bathing.
If you really really want chromoly axles, just swap in a dana 44
You don't have a cousin named Jerry do you?