1999 TJ Crush Sleeve Replacement

Cameron23

Professional Torch Wielder and Bolt Cutter
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So for anyone following my Tcase rebuild, while I have it out I wanted to replace my pinion seals on both diffs as they were both leaking. Did that, but my inexperience with working on diffs got the better of me.

I knew about the crush sleeves but I didn’t ensure I had a full understanding of how everything works before I began which led to what I’m dealing with now.

For the rear. I’m not super concerned about it but here’s where it stands . I worried that I overtightened the nut as I went about a half turn past my mark. Not a crazy amount of torque but enough that I was concerned. Backed it off (I know this doesn’t uncrush the sleeve but I did anyway) and cranked it back on the mark. I got the wheels in the air and generally I have a breakaway of 5-10 inch pounds and a consistent rotational torque of 5 inch pounds. That’s with wheels and brakes still on. However, inconsistent with yoke position, every few rotations or so I’ll get a slightly more difficult turn of 15 inch pounds breakaway followed by th consistent 5 inch pounds rotational torque. No rubbing sounds or roughness very smooth just weirdly higher break away torque when starting occasionally. There’s no up or down in or out play so that’s good. I figure I may be good to run that one as is but the 15 inch pound thing has me wanting confirmation that I didn’t mess something up that I need to address.

My main concern is my front. I replaced the seal and was much more familiarized with the process after the rear scare, but still think I messed it up. I was tightening down the nut, I was about 1/2 of a turn short of my mark (so I thought I was good) and it got fairly tight. I figured it should be getting tight since I was getting close to the mark and I stupidly cranked it attempting to get back to the mark. Got within a 1/4 turn of my mark and realized I shouldn’t be cranking on it that hard, something had to be off. And of course now my front yoke has a breakaway of 65 inch pounds and rotational torque of 45 inch pounds. With wheels tires and brakes still attached. So I’m fairly certain I messed that up.

I guess I just need next necessary steps. I’m not looking to do a full rebuild or anything of either diff, I just want my jeep back on the road. I need to get my crush sleeves sorted and my tcase back in.

Is there a decent how to for just straight swapping and reloading the crush sleeve on my Dana 30 (I think I have a good video for the Dana 35 if I need to)? I searched YouTube and could only really find videos on regearing or full rebuilds of the Dana 30 not really what I want to do.

I understand that there are spacers and/or shims that need to be kept in the same positions as when I pull them out but I am unfamiliar with what these are, how they work, or what all I need to be careful of while disassembling and reassembling.

I’m not afraid of tackling something new. I have plenty of tools and a decent mechanical knowledge base I’ve just never worked on diffs. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
It's really pretty simple. Like you pointed out the gotchas are the shims...when I tore down my Dana 30 I bent a couple of shims and it took two orders and three weeks to get the right stuff. A case spreader helps avoid this...but I probably wasn't being careful enough.

Basically get a paint pen and mark the carrier cap with what's up and what's out before you unbolt it so you get it into the same spot and orientation as the last time.

Front all you need to do is pull the three unit bearing bolts and everything will slide out.

Back - Dana 35 you'll have c clips. It's really easy to push in the axles and pull them out. Until it's not...I had to hammer this in before I got the clip out, then hammer it out (and replaced the axle.)

IMG20260830141701.webp


-Mac
 
How concerned should I be with that rear doing what it’s doing? It’s like it turns with 5 inch pounds for a couple rotations then it takes 15 inch pounds for like a quarter rotation and then goes back to 5. I wouldn’t notice it if continuously spinning. But doing stop and go to feel break away at different engagements of the diff I’ll get 15 inch pounds in a spot. Doesn’t seem pinion bearing related because it doesn’t happen at the same orientation of the yoke every time. It can go multiple rotations at 5 inch pounds before hitting 15 inch pounds for a 1/4 rotation.
 
How concerned should I be with that rear doing what it’s doing? It’s like it turns with 5 inch pounds for a couple rotations then it takes 15 inch pounds for like a quarter rotation and then goes back to 5. I wouldn’t notice it if continuously spinning. But doing stop and go to feel break away at different engagements of the diff I’ll get 15 inch pounds in a spot. Doesn’t seem pinion bearing related because it doesn’t happen at the same orientation of the yoke every time. It can go multiple rotations at 5 inch pounds before hitting 15 inch pounds for a 1/4 rotation.

You can't properly check the pinion pre-load with the wheels, brakes, and shafts still installed. All that has to come out.

I can tell you that you will need two new crush sleeves. I would not drive that around the way you have it.
 
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Can you feel that when you turn it by hand?

-Mac

Yeah I can feel it when turning by hand. It’s not much but it’s there. Every couple rotations I get a slight spike in rotational torque. Like I said it’ll do 5 in lbs breakaway for a couple stop and start rotations. Rotate it a half rotation, reset the beam tw because it’s too long to make a full rotation. Rotate another 1/2 rotation. Reset. Repeat. It can make a few rotations and then I’ll get a 15 in lbs breakaway for about a 1/4 rotation, followed by 5 in lbs again for another couple rotations.

I think I’ve resigned myself to replacing both crush sleeves. I’ve ordered 2 crush sleeves for each end just as insurance if I over crush it the first time. I’m just nervous pulling the internals and getting them put back in exactly as I took them out having not done work on diffs before.

I guess I just gotta do it and see where I land. I really wish I would have taken it to my in laws lake house (2 hours away) before doing all of this as they have a lift which would have made this shit 10x easier. But they’re also like an hour away from major auto parts stores and I would only be able to work on it over weekends.
 
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You can't properly check the pinion pre-load with the wheels, brakes, and shafts still installed. All that has to come out.

I can tell you that you will need two new crush sleeves. I would not drive that around the way you have it.

Yeah I just ordered 2 crush sleeves for both ends so I’m not waiting around if I mess one up.

Question for the group.

TLDR; I can’t find any solid consistent guidance for a 99 TJ about whether the front and rear pinion seals for the Dana 30 and Dana 35 are supposed to be the flanged type or unflanged type.

Full Context: I’ve been having trouble nailing down if the previous owner had the proper pinion seals in place. The difference being thickness and flanged vs unflanged. Pulled an unflanged one from the front which seems right. But the rear was a flanged one. I see there are flanged and unflanged for the Dana 35 and I’ve seen forum posts that indicate unflanged and also some the indicate flanged.

I had originally tried a spicer flanged one up front on the Dana 30 that I got from Rock Auto. It’s what Rock Auto said it needed so I went with it. It was super tight and I didn’t like how it sit, so I pulled it and got an unflanged National brand one that fit a lot better. But now I’m wondering if the rear is also supposed to be unflanged and maybe the previous owner just didn’t know.
 
You probably don't need new crush sleeves unless they were over crushed. All a crush sleeve is is a piece of spring steel that puts constant pressure on the pinion bearing race to keep it from wearing out.

Your biggest mistake here is trying to measure preload with the axle completely assembled. Your spike in preload every rotation is probably due to a high spot on your brakes. At the very minimum, pull the tires, brakes, AND axle shafts. Ideally you should also pull the carrier, but if you don't you should be able to get the pinion preload in the proper range, unless your carrier bearings are on their way out and have too much drag in them.
 
You probably don't need new crush sleeves unless they were over crushed. All a crush sleeve is is a piece of spring steel that puts constant pressure on the pinion bearing race to keep it from wearing out.

Your biggest mistake here is trying to measure preload with the axle completely assembled. Your spike in preload every rotation is probably due to a high spot on your brakes. At the very minimum, pull the tires, brakes, AND axle shafts. Ideally you should also pull the carrier, but if you don't you should be able to get the pinion preload in the proper range, unless your carrier bearings are on their way out and have too much drag in them.

I worried that I overtightened the nut as I went about a half turn past my mark.

I was tightening down the nut, I was about 1/2 of a turn short of my mark (so I thought I was good) and it got fairly tight. I figured it should be getting tight since I was getting close to the mark and I stupidly cranked it attempting to get back to the mark. Got within a 1/4 turn of my mark and realized I shouldn’t be cranking on it that hard, something had to be off. And of course now my front yoke has a breakaway of 65 inch pounds and rotational torque of 45 inch pounds. With wheels tires and brakes still attached. So I’m fairly certain I messed that up.

What about his statement would lead you to believe he didn't over crush the sleeves?
 
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What about his statement would lead you to believe he didn't over crush the sleeves?

Missed that further up in the thread. Yes, he probably over crushed the sleeves. However, I still don't like he is measuring rotational torque with everything together. There is no way to get an even remotely accurate measurement of pinion bearing preload doing it that way.
 
Current plan is to replace crush sleeves on both diffs. I have everything ordered 2 crush sleeves per diff (for insurance), new pinion seals, new pinion nuts, new pumpkin gaskets. I have a good how to video for the Dana 35 that I will reference. If there are any specifically for just replacing the crush sleeve on the Dana 30 a link would be appreciated. Most I see are regearing and replacing components, and don't really focus on pulling everything and focusing on reinstalling exactly as it was pulled.
 
Current plan is to replace crush sleeves on both diffs. I have everything ordered 2 crush sleeves per diff (for insurance), new pinion seals, new pinion nuts, new pumpkin gaskets. I have a good how to video for the Dana 35 that I will reference. If there are any specifically for just replacing the crush sleeve on the Dana 30 a link would be appreciated. Most I see are regearing and replacing components, and don't really focus on pulling everything and focusing on reinstalling exactly as it was pulled.

This may or may NOT be helpful, but this is when I was re-assembling my Dana 30:
https://www.doubleveil.net/jeep/sixty-four.htm
 
Alright I’m working on the Dana 35 first because I have a BFH Garage video to reference taking everything out and getting it back in.

How fucked is that left spider gear? Obviously I know it’s not ideal. Wondering what’s the risk of just running it like that as opposed to swapping in a fresh one and having to deal with shims and what not. Was really wanting to just swap out the crush sleeve and be done.

I’m not sure how it can get damaged like that but not any of the others have damage. Not sure what would cause that and also not sure what sort of a rabbit hole I’d be going down swapping in a fresh one.

IMG_8384.webp


IMG_8383.webp


IMG_8382.webp
 
Alright I’m working on the Dana 35 first because I have a BFH Garage video to reference taking everything out and getting it back in.

How fucked is that left spider gear? Obviously I know it’s not ideal. Wondering what’s the risk of just running it like that as opposed to swapping in a fresh one and having to deal with shims and what not. Was really wanting to just swap out the crush sleeve and be done.

I’m not sure how it can get damaged like that but not any of the others have damage. Not sure what would cause that and also not sure what sort of a rabbit hole I’d be going down swapping in a fresh one.

View attachment 711149

View attachment 711150

View attachment 711151

Don't buy a 12 pack this weekend and spend the money on the hardened spicer Dana 35 spider gears. If the cover is off it's worth sending those to china for recycling
 
Working on pulling the Dana 30. Is it pretty much the same process as the Dana 35 but without the c clips?

Am a little concerned that I feel like there’s supposed to be a bolt in this hole..

I am definitely not the first person to be in this axle so it’s very possible someone reassembled it wrong.

IMG_8412.webp
 
Working on pulling the Dana 30. Is it pretty much the same process as the Dana 35 but without the c clips?

Am a little concerned that I feel like there’s supposed to be a bolt in this hole..

I am definitely not the first person to be in this axle so it’s very possible someone reassembled it wrong.

View attachment 711287

There's supposed to be a roll pin in that hole...

This page may or may not be helpful, its more about a complete front end rebuild and locker installation. It goes on for several pages:

https://www.doubleveil.net/jeep/sixty-three.htm
 
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