Clutch Replacement

[CarsonTrailduster]

My pedal has been getting harder over the past few weeks so I'm guessing its only gonna be a matter of time before I need to replace the Clutch.

Question; Which did you go with and why?

I'm leaning towards the Luk RepSet, I used this clutch in my '79 Plymouth Trailduster and have no complaints. Just wondering what the Jeep guys liked?

97 Sport 4.0L

 

[JDS123]

What do you mean the pedal is getting harder? That would imply losing fluid and air in the lines to me, not a clutch that is wearing out. The only reason to replace a clutch in my opinion is if it slipping. Go on the highway, put it in 5th, and floor it. If you don't see a sudden rise in RPM with no increase in speed, your clutch itself is fine. Jeep clutches can last a long long time. My first clutch lasted 189k miles, and we only changed it because the transmission was getting pulled already. I wouldn't be surprised if it still had 50k on it before it started slipping.

 

[mcj600]

Might just need one of these deals (master cyl assem):

 

[CarsonTrailduster]

What I meant by harder is it taking more effort to push the pedal down. I have checked the fluid, no issues there. I have not had any issues of slipping but do not have any info on if its been changed and the jeep has 187K on it. I guess I was over thinking it, probably just needs the master/slave and it'll be good to go. Thanks you may have just saved me a bunch of unnecessary work.

 

[ohiopatriot]

Usually a slave/master issue will give you a soft pedal. Does it grind going into gears?

A binding throwout bearing can make it difficult to push.

 

[CarsonTrailduster]

Sorry for the delay, yes it has been increasingly difficult from a stop to select 1st or reverse. Reverse usually grinds. Once moving it shifts ok with the occasional grind.

 

[CarsonTrailduster]

Following up in case others have the same symptoms, this is what I found.

Throw out bearing was squeaky/crunchy and one of the retainers were broken

Pressure plate was worn pretty bad, the ends of the springs were as sharp as a razor

The disc still looked good but was getting close to the rivets

Flywheel was good, couple hot spots but no grooves. I replaced it anyway. Time taking it down to be resurfaced vrs. new...

All went well except the skid plate bolts put up a good fight and cost me quite a bit of time. While removing the rear driveshaft I noticed one of the bearing caps had some shiny metal where it had been spinning in the strap so it was replaced. I still have a new master/slave to install, and the front driveshaft, should be able to get that done tomorrow.

 

[fooey]

Good call on replacing the flywheel, the TJ flywheels can’t be resurfaced.

Did you go with the LuK kit? Which TOB did you use?

 

[CarsonTrailduster]

Good call on replacing the flywheel, the TJ flywheels can’t be resurfaced.

Did you go with the LuK kit? Which TOB did you use?

I didn't know that, why not? Yes Luk repset kit which came with the TOB and pilot bearing.

 

[fooey]

They have a concave profile and it is lost when resurfaced.

 

[TJ4Jim]

Really no reason to replace the flywheel unless there is physical damage, it can be cleaned with emery cloth and or a wire brush.

 

[FireJeep]

that is true but for $60 it is cheap insurance..........

 

[FireJeep]

assuming you receive the correct one...... Amazon sent me the wrong Luk flywheel, the one they sent was for a 2004, in 2005 Jeep apparently made the crank positioning sensor more precise and it then required 24 lobes on the flywheel as opposed to 12 on the 2004.... Luckily, as the poster above stated, the flywheel was still in pretty good shape and I just re-used my old one.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

They have a concave profile and it is lost when resurfaced.

Actually the flywheel has a convex shape, aka dome shape, that would be removed by having it machined/resurfaced.