Teraflex 241OR 2Low kit - anyone using one in your Rubicon?

psrivats

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I came across this thing today:

https://teraflex.com/shop_items/tj-241or-2low-2wd-low-range-shift-sector-kit

Does anyone have experience using this kit? @Chris @Jerry Bransford @jjvw @glwood have you seen or heard about this at all?

From the description:

The TeraFlex TJ/LJ Rubicon 241OR 2Low 2WD Low-Range Shift Sector Kit adds a rear 2WD (two-wheel-drive) low-range option to the TJ Wrangler Rubicon/LJ Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 241OR transfer case’s standard low-range shift pattern.

This kit enhances trail turning ability by allowing tighter turns on narrow switchbacks and eliminates most front-end bind encountered while turning with 4WD (four-wheel-drive) engaged. This internal modification does not require any external upgrades.

New Shift Pattern: 2H > 4H > N > 2L > 4L

Fits:

• TJ Wrangler Rubicon w/ 241OR transfer case only
• LJ Wrangler Unlimited (long wheelbase) w/ 241OR transfer case only

Install Time: 5 Hours

ps: still no Jeep :( So I'm going a bit crazy and looking at potential future upgrades :(
 
I didn't think the 2 low kit was still available. It would be fun to have, but I don't really see the need. Certainly not for $282.
 
Unlocking the Rubicon's front or rear axle locker is all you need to do to get tight turns. Yes the rear locker increases the turning radius too.
 
What I figure was due to some sort of linkage wear, I could easily choose 2wd low range in my old CJ5 any time I wanted. Even though I used low range 90% of the time off road I really don't remember using the 2wd low except for maneuvering a trailer around stuff in reverse on pavement.
 
In my old CJ with manual locking hubs, I would sometimes put it in 4-low without locking the hubs, and it had the same affect, it created a 2-low. It was great for backing trailers up our steep paved driveway, and things like that.

What ever happened to the manual hubs? I'd love to have them on my TJ. It really helped the gas mileage on the CJ.
 
In my old CJ with manual locking hubs, I would sometimes put it in 4-low without locking the hubs, and it had the same affect, it created a 2-low. It was great for backing trailers up our steep paved driveway, and things like that.

What ever happened to the manual hubs? I'd love to have them on my TJ. It really helped the gas mileage on the CJ.
I've installed manual hubs on both of my TJs and there's no effect on the mpg. I can't even tell if they're locked or not when driving on the street or highway.

I do understand manual hubs can make a difference with CJs.
 
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I've installed manual hubs on both of my TJs and there's no effect on the mpg. I can't even tell if they're locked or not when driving on the street or highway.

I do understand manual hubs can make a difference with CJs.

Theoretically, shouldn't they also have a positive impact on mileage in TJs too? The frictional loses are not small I'm guessing.
 
Theoretically, shouldn't they also have a detectable positive impact on mileage in TJs too? The frictional loses are not small I'm guessing.
The TJ's unit bearing hubs, diff, tcase input shaft turn so easily unlocked manual hubs just don't make a significant difference in mpg or power. Over 22 years of TJ ownership I've never seen a TJ owner with manual hubs claim anything different. That's certainly my experience with two different models of Warn hubs.
 
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The TJ's unit bearing hubs, diff, tcase input shaft turn so easily unlocked manual hubs just don't make a significant difference in mpg or power. Over 22 years of TJ ownership I've never seen a TJ owner with manual hubs claim anything different. That's certainly my experience with two different models of Warn hubs.

I can understand that. After a point we may just be chasing smaller and smaller improvements in power and mpg that may not be with the effort. That part I will simply take your word for it, Jerry.

May I ask what made you go with Warn hubs at all? Just curious.
 
I can understand that. After a point we may just be chasing smaller and smaller improvements in power and mpg that may not be with the effort. That part I will simply take your word for it, Jerry.

May I ask what made you go with Warn hubs at all? Just curious.
I broke a front axle shaft on a really tough rock crawling trail, Sledgehammer in Johnson Valley CA. With just the OE unit bearing hub I had to remove the broken inner shaft to drive out of there. When I replaced the broken shaft and the other side with stronger alloy shafts from Warn (no longer sold), I went ahead and installed manual hubs too. So for most any future front shaft breaks I can just unlock the hub and drive out in 3wd.

DSCF0052.webp
 
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What type of wheeling will you be doing with the Rubicrawler? What size tires and axle ratio?

Sand dunes to other pacific northwest offroading. I'm more interested in the 2.72 ratio than the 10.88. (241 tc)

I'm on 32 inch tires now and 4.10 (stock) gearing. I'll change that before too long. I don't like the 4.10s even on the 32s.
 
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Sand dunes to other pacific northwest offroading. I'm more interested in the 2.72 ratio than the 10.88. (241 tc)

I'm on 32 inch tires now and 4.10 (stock) gearing. I'll change that before too long. I don't like the 4.10s even on the 32s.

Same here. I would love to have 2.72 ratio I'm addition to the (plenty for my use) 4:1. The Rubi 4:1 is too deep for sand.
 
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One of these days I'll let you guys know how I like my RubiCrawler... haha... one of these days!
 
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I had the TERA 2-LOW in an NV-241OR that was in the last TJ. The "Tera-2-Low" 2-WD low range kit and it worked out just great for technical trails like the Dusy Ershim or Rubicon that I ran 99% of those trails in 2WD just for fun. If you do this conversion, make sure that you don't over-rev the transfer case in 2-Low though. The planetary gears are spinning mighty fast with that. For the right type of wheeling, this makes the Rock Track about as good as it can get before actually going to the Atlas II........