Just removed my 4.5" springs and installed the 3": Did my toe change?

bobthetj03 said:
If those red poly jounces don't have any give, it doesn't look like you'll have much up travel. Just an observation based on your pic angle.
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3.5" is the gap. I can saw off another inch from the poly bump stop then I would be getting into the bolt. I cut these to the size on the ones that come with the teraflex kit.
 
rraulston said:
3.5" is the gap. I can saw off another inch from the poly bump stop then I would be getting into the bolt. I cut these to the size on the ones that come with the teraflex kit.
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What are the bumps extended to protect?
 
Bump stop extension has no direct correlation to the lift height. Their purpose is to stop the suspension's up travel before damage can occur. Typically that would be things like an over-compressed shock or a tire mashing into the body sheet metal. Those things are not effected by a change in lift height unless you also changed them.

Did you see my picture earlier today? That is what a bump stop check looks like.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
The factory jounce bumpers are a softer material and actually compress almost to the steel cup when prompted to by the lower bump stop. Most will extend their lower bump stop extensions to the steel cup and omit the jounce bumper in the equation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016J1CW0E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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Correct. When extending the stock bump stops, the steel cup ought to touch the axle pad before anything else crashes together. The soft jounces are there to provide a bit of cushion to slow the impact of reaching hard bump.
 
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So the check I made on the front last nite was with the steering linkage and track bar off and the shocks connected. I jacked up the axel until the poly bumpers touched the bottom. I had about 1” of shock travel left. The rear is an issue because the shock bottoms out 1.5” prior to the bumper touching. I will order 2 new 5100s his week. Teraflex website indicated their kit came with a 2.25 lower base so I cut my 3” base to 2.25”. I appreciate the advice. I listen to all of it!
 
Next time you cycle the front, keep the steering and track bar in place. That way you will know if everything fits well together. Some track bars can interfere with the diff cover. Your's appears to be lower than stock, which may be a problem that requires more bump stop extension.
 
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rraulston said:
Now I have to sort the tires. the 305/70-16 look huge. My goal is 33/10.5-15 or17
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I've been running 33/10.5-15 with a 3 inch black diamond lift for over a decade, it's among the lightest 33 on the market, you will love the smoother ride and better road manners, not to mention less heat on the rest of your steering components.

IMG_0059.JPG
 
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Wombat said:
I've been running 33/10.5-15 with a 3 inch black diamond lift for over a decade, it's among the lightest 33 on the market, you will love the smoother ride and better road manners, not to mention less heat on the rest of your steering components.

View attachment 70927
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Nice looking Jeep. I think my goal is similar to yours. I want to drive the interstate for 500 miles, wheel various trails, then drive home issue free and in somewhat comfort. I would have left it "in the sky" if I wanted to wheel local. It didn't drive that bad at 4.5" but bad enough for long trips and at 12 mpg! Is the long arm kit worth upgrading to in the future??
 
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mrblaine said:
It is pretty common to crack the track bar right through the area where you drilled that hole. With the hole there, it won't just crack, it will fail catastrophically.
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The only hole I drilled in the track bar was through the metal sleeve that's in the center of the rubber bushing that's pressed into the forged track bar ends. I opened it up about 1/32. Its still way thick and I see no possibility of failure. What am I missing??
 
rraulston said:
The only hole I drilled in the track bar was through the metal sleeve that's in the center of the rubber bushing that's pressed into the forged track bar ends. I opened it up about 1/32. Its still way thick and I see no possibility of failure. What am I missing??
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The frame mount doesn't require drilling through the mount?
 
rraulston said:
The only hole I drilled in the track bar was through the metal sleeve that's in the center of the rubber bushing that's pressed into the forged track bar ends. I opened it up about 1/32. Its still way thick and I see no possibility of failure. What am I missing??
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Not the trackbar or its bushings, the frame side trackbar mount in the front that you added the bracket to has a bolt that holds the vertical portion to the backside of the trackbar mount. I can see the end of the bolt going right through the spot that we see cracks in the flanges.
 
rraulston said:
https://jksmfg.com/i-8938539-relocation-bracket-for-rear-trackbar.html?ref=category:381072

This is what I used. All the holes were predrilled. Because they didn't line up perfectly, I had to "chase" the holes with a drill bit. It was a very minor chase. That bracket is firmly bolted into position. I'm not sure I needed it but some members suggested it.
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We are talking about the front frame side mount.

And yes. There was no reason to chase any of the bushing holes. Clamping force is all that is needed.
 
mrblaine said:
Not the trackbar or its bushings, the frame side trackbar mount in the front that you added the bracket to has a bolt that holds the vertical portion to the backside of the trackbar mount. I can see the end of the bolt going right through the spot that we see cracks in the flanges.
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I got you now. Mine was in good shape as this is a low mile jeep. I will keep an eye out..
 
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