I like my Johnny Joints quite a bit. They move where they need to move. Savvy arms are double adjustable which makes the setup process much nicer. Currie track bars and steering. The JKS front track bar might be another option.
Mid Arm Lift Suggestions
- Thread starter 01TJ-Blues
- Start date
You are reading incorrectly. He said use a quality short arm, preferably with Johnny Joints. Your RC shit is holding you back. Get a set of Savvy, Currie, Core4x4 arms. You'll need all 8, plus some trackbar refinements, most likely. Set your bumps and go have fun for a while.
Note: I included the Core 4x4 arms because they manufacture a less expensive set of arms that only have a single JJ on one end. The other is a standard Clevite Bushing. I've been told, buy people I trust, that an arm with a single JJ will not limit your flex in a short arm set-up.
That work creates the base line. After that, tuck the skid. That will require you to twist the axles around to line up the pinions again. Now your bumpstops don't line up, and you have to relocate the spring perch. Should you outboard at this point? Maybe...Its a big hole but it is very worthwhile (I assume and hope, because I will be jumping in right behind you). Then...After you have all that working well and you're still having problems...its time to take the rig down and rework all the suspension mounting points.
I'd be willing to bet properly setting up your short arms will allow you to exceed the capabilities of your buddies on Long Arm Kits (if they bought kits).
Yes, if you want full adjustability and can't do external bypasses, the DSC work great. The standard comp adjuster doesn't work very well. My next front shocks are 2.5 IBPs with DSC in front. We put IBPs in the rear of my partners Jeep, but skipped the DSCs to learn the base tunes.
In the DSC shocks I've played with so far they come with a low flow piston and very light shims, but haven't opened an IBP with DSC yet.
I like to run all these shocks on my Jeep to learn the piston and tunes, but that's a spendy proposition.
That is only done to reduce cost. No other reason and that diminishes the value of a double JJ arm enough to not be worth it so you aren't saving anything.
If the heat didn't become an issue, you could almost race on the 2.0's with the DSC's.Yes, if you want full adjustability and can't do external bypasses, the DSC work great. The standard comp adjuster doesn't work very well. My next front shocks are 2.5 IBPs with DSC in front. We put IBPs in the rear of my partners Jeep, but skipped the DSCs to learn the base tunes.
In the DSC shocks I've played with so far they come with a low flow piston and very light shims, but haven't opened an IBP with DSC yet.
I like to run all these shocks on my Jeep to learn the piston and tunes, but that's a spendy proposition.
OP
That’s how I read it, just clarifying that I SHOULD upgrade to a better quality control arm setup.
Thanks for the input again, much appreciated.
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Are the DSC reservoirs something that can be added (along with a re-tune) to an existing set of 2.0s? Just thinking down the road as I get mine further refined.
Sure. I'm not sure how well it works with the stock small hose though, but that's just a theory. I bet Blaine knows since he did the swap. That would necessitate a top cap change for 2.0s. And I would start with lighter than normal valving to get the full adjustability, too.
We didn't do a swap. The shocks were supplied with the reservoirs and the larger hose so I will assume a cap change to adapt them to an earlier shock with the smaller hose will be in order.
The owner has had these for about 5 months which he relates is before they were released to the public since he "knows a guy".
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
Don’t just focus on the control arms. Note the recommendation for a antirock as well. You could also go lower budget and set up to disconnect the sway bar. Either way, it will go a long way to improving flex up front.
Improving flex is not the goal. To increase the performance you want the two swaybars, front and rear working together to improve traction. That doesn't happen with one of them disconnected.
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
There were a few comments in the thread on problems with picking a wheel up versus others in the group that didn't have this issue. I wouldn't be surprised if these other jeeps had a swaybar disconnect or antirock that helps create the comparison that his current suspension is not as flexible.
I've read the swaybar disconnect argument versus antirock on other discussions and fully buy into the benefits of an antirock and improving traction instead of just flex. However, I've used used a disconnected sway bar enough to also know that it provides a major benefit over a stock system, especially if you're not fully locked up on your differentials. It may not be as good as an antirock, but it still is a cheap way to improve performance.
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
True, just keep the rear connected when doing that.
Indeed
For sure hanging a wheel in the air will happen more with two sway bars than being disconnected. The difference is the body will be flatter and more stable when doing so. I've ridden out a lot of 3 wheel motion climbs. If you were disconnected doing the same climbs, I don't think it would be a good day.
Again though, a lot of us have progressed through MANY iterations of build and performance. If you aren't outdriving your Jeep being fully disconnected, and you are comfortable doing so. then you don't need Antirocks. Like Blaine says about outdriving the short arms, I think it's the same. Personally, I want max performance and that means a custom suspension, custom mounted and tuned shocks, and swaybars. Not everyone is there yet, or needs to be.
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
Cost plays a big part as well. I've found the limits of my setup several times and I usually don't find it's body stability. The antirock is on the list, but other priorities come first as funds are available.For sure hanging a wheel in the air will happen more with two sway bars than being disconnected. The difference is the body will be flatter and more stable when doing so. I've ridden out a lot of 3 wheel motion climbs. If you were disconnected doing the same climbs, I don't think it would be a good day.
Again though, a lot of us have progressed through MANY iterations of build and performance. If you aren't outdriving your Jeep being fully disconnected, and you are comfortable doing so. then you don't need Antirocks. Like Blaine says about outdriving the short arms, I think it's the same. Personally, I want max performance and that means a custom suspension, custom mounted and tuned shocks, and swaybars. Not everyone is there yet, or needs to be.
OP
For sure hanging a wheel in the air will happen more with two sway bars than being disconnected. The difference is the body will be flatter and more stable when doing so. I've ridden out a lot of 3 wheel motion climbs. If you were disconnected doing the same climbs, I don't think it would be a good day.
Again though, a lot of us have progressed through MANY iterations of build and performance. If you aren't outdriving your Jeep being fully disconnected, and you are comfortable doing so. then you don't need Antirocks. Like Blaine says about outdriving the short arms, I think it's the same. Personally, I want max performance and that means a custom suspension, custom mounted and tuned shocks, and swaybars. Not everyone is there yet, or needs to be.
Note that all three Jeeps in the comparison have Anti-Rocks front and rear.
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Off subject of the mid arm discussion but relative to the antirock. Is it true that with the front swapped to an antirock the rear is just fine with the factory sway bar or is there very minimal performance to be gained from a rear antirock with a short arm lift?