Metalcloak vs Currie / Savvy control arms

I've been running the Metalcloak double adjustable arms for the past year: They ride great, have amazing flex, and take my constant abuse. Double adjustable make life so much easier when you're setting them, fine tuning, or making any changes. I've never heard of or seen anyone having issues with their joints either.
 
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If the Currie joints are super stiff, just press them apart and regrease. I use a moly grease usually, this last time I used antiseize.

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If the Currie joints are super stiff, just press them apart and regrease. I use a moly grease usually, this last time I used antiseize.
What may feel "super stiff" to your hands & arms would not be stiff at all to an axle being moved around by the Jeep & terrain.
 
If the Currie joints are super stiff, just press them apart and regrease. I use a moly grease usually, this last time I used antiseize.

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What may feel "super stiff" to your arms is not stiff at all to an axle being moved around by the Jeep & terrain.


I wanted to have the joints rebuilt but apparently the arms aren't able to adjusted length wise anymore. I just installed a TT so that raises some problems. If I'm honest, I'm skeptical that the arms are so badly seized that they can't be fixed. I'm trusting my shop's word right now. I don't think they would try to screw me that badly for only a few extra dollars.
 
I can't imagine the threaded part of the arms not being able to be adjusted after the usual means. Heat, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc.
 
Got a great deal on MC double adjustable arms from @Chris

The original arms had 200k miles and really weren't shot.

Given the choice of multiple grease zerks vs the rubber flex, I might have bought the duraflex joints anyway. I don't run the KOH!
 
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Time is money and the shop would rather do other things with that time. My guess is that it is less work to put new arms on than to spend time restoring the existing arms.
 
I can't imagine the threaded part of the arms not being able to be adjusted after the usual means. Heat, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc.

I 100% agree with you. I don't understand how that is possible. I decided after some thought to believe what they said. The shop builds LS3 powered JK's, full buggies, and all sorts of other crazy stuff so I think they have some idea. They've also been featured in four wheeler as experts on rust related issues. I hope they're not that crooked.

Time is money and the shop would rather do other things with that time. My guess is that it is less work to put new arms on than to spend time restoring the existing arms.

That was my guess as well.
 
I 100% agree with you. I don't understand how that is possible. I decided after some thought to believe what they said. The shop builds LS3 powered JK's, full buggies, and all sorts of other crazy stuff so I think they have some idea. They've also been featured in four wheeler as experts on rust related issues. I hope they're not that crooked.
I'd have to assume they're simply more interested in building sexy new stuff that goes together easily and is more fun for the crew than fixing something that needs a little TLC.
 
I'd have to assume they're simply more interested in building sexy new stuff that goes together easily and is more fun for the crew than fixing something that needs a little TLC.

I would tend to agree with you except they just put a new frame under my TJ. My TJ definitely needed a little TLC and isn't exactly new or sexy ;).

Whatever the reason is, at least I get new arms.
 
Whatever you decide to replace them with, keep the old ones and at your leisure soak them good with Kroil for a week or so and see if you can revive them. I have a 5" piece of PVC pipe I sealed at one end, and a threaded cap at the other. stuff the arms in there fill it full of penetrant of choice and let em soak.
 
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Keep the old arms, rebuild them yourself, and sell. Chances are quite good than there is nothing wrong with them. And your time is less costly.
 
Whatever you decide to replace them with, keep the old ones and at your leisure soak them good with Kroil for a week or so and see if you can revive them. I have a 5" piece of PVC pipe I sealed at one end, and a threaded cap at the other. stuff the arms in there fill it full of penetrant of choice and let em soak.

Funnily enough someone on the forum already asked for them so they can try and repair them. I'll be interested with how it goes. If it turns out to be an easy repair I'm not going to be very happy...
 
I just bought a set of Lowers with bad bushings, I paid $80 for 4" springs and 4 fixed lower control arms. The only thing I am concerned about is the length of the arms are 16.25" long. I will eventually buy a set of Synergy bushings, push out the old ones and in with the new...Tim

I still need to come up with a set of upper fronts that someone is taking off that need rebuild, since the lowers I have are fixed, I will need adjustable uppers. I found a set of Rusty's adjustable that I can get new bushings for, but I will have to replace the flex joint end with one that takes a Clevite bushing. The Rusty's arms will take the 2-5/8" or 2" rod end, they both have 1-1/4"x12 threads. If I use link towers, it will allow me to use a larger bushing on the axle end if I want.

I have been spending way too much time on the web researching this stuff. Tim
 
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