What does your frame look like right now?

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Looks great BlackSheep- I'd love to eventually complete a full project like this...Like Mike said above, I'm trying to preserve and keep mine for many many years to come

It was on jackstands since thanksgiving last year. I just put her down on her own feet this past weekend. Thankfully, she's a toy as I have a Dodge Dakota as my daily driver. The entire shop is covered in rust dust. I'm sure my lungs lungs are also contaminated with that same dust, despite my attempts at protecting them.
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Stainless isn't as great as you might think...There are some inherent issues trying to form 300 series Stainless (The stuff you would want to prevent real corrosion). Basically, it would have to be fully cut, assembled and welded vs bent like most Automotive frames. That would drive the price into the unrealistic category very quickly.
I'm just guessing, but I don't think you read the article I linked, so I'll copy and paste a quote from it here.

"Lazzari says automotive industry officials can understand how a stainless frame is lighter than one made with carbon steel and how the strength of stainless will produce a smoother ride. But one question always comes up: "(Stainless) costs so much more than carbon steel. How can you tell me it would be less expensive?"

Armco and Autokinetics think they've solved the problem by designing a frame that uses less steel, is easier to manufacture, and produces less waste. There are additional savings because stainless steel is made corrosion-resistant while carbon steel must be coated with zinc.

"We more than make up for the higher cost per pound," says Autokinetics president Bruce Emmons. "We're expecting it to be less expensive than carbon steel."
 
99 New England Frame, ready for the scrap pile (drivers side lower control arm mount rotted off as well as the skid plate area on both sides):
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2006 replacement frame, fresh out of the hot dip galvanize tank:
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Hopefully, now New England salt proof...
Thats awesome... i wish i had thought of that! I do have a matching two piece frame that would go great with yours if you want it...
 
I'm just guessing, but I don't think you read the article I linked, so I'll copy and paste a quote from it here.

"Lazzari says automotive industry officials can understand how a stainless frame is lighter than one made with carbon steel and how the strength of stainless will produce a smoother ride. But one question always comes up: "(Stainless) costs so much more than carbon steel. How can you tell me it would be less expensive?"

Armco and Autokinetics think they've solved the problem by designing a frame that uses less steel, is easier to manufacture, and produces less waste. There are additional savings because stainless steel is made corrosion-resistant while carbon steel must be coated with zinc.

"We more than make up for the higher cost per pound," says Autokinetics president Bruce Emmons. "We're expecting it to be less expensive than carbon steel."
I actually did read the article. It was written in 1998. I think its safe to say their ideas did not pan out.

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I actually did read the article. It was written in 1998. I think its safe to say their ideas did not pan out.

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True. Never even looked at the date.
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But I still can't believe that no improvements can be made that are cost effective for the buyer. The shit carbon steel that car manuf. are using for frame and body? Just using better quality steel extends the life, depending on the exposure, let alone, dipping it in something that prevents corrosion. I think it all boils down to the fact that the Manuf. doesn't want anything to last. Puts DIY's like us in a position, after we have made our vehicles last longer than expected we still have to deal with the fact that it will rust away to nothing eventually. Only recourse is to do what @TJ's-TJ did above and DIY. Is still crap, IMHO.

Rant over.
 
Sandblasted, Safe-T-Capped, and undercoated by Auto Rust Technicians in Rhode Island (manufacturers of Safe T Cap). If I'm going to pay for work done on my Jeep, I'll only pay for the best. Not a single speck of rot left on my New York Jeep.

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Same MO here as well. Drove up to RI and had the pros do mine. 2 1/2 years later, holding up as clean and solid as the day I left their shop.



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Lol yours isn't that bad off. I don't drive this, already have the safety-caps, welder and plasma cutter. just waiting on the free time to get it done.
What welder are you using? Was thinking fluxcore 145 amp would work, but I dont have alot of experience welding. So gonna need t practice before I hit install the center skid sections.
Let us know how it goes.
 
What welder are you using? Was thinking fluxcore 145 amp would work, but I dont have alot of experience welding. So gonna need t practice before I hit install the center skid sections.
Let us know how it goes.

I've got a Eastwood mig 175. Thing works great. And I'll do a whole thread on it as soon as I get started with plenty of pictures. There's not too much info out there on repairing these frames and its unfortunate because it's really not too difficult as long as you have a basic understanding of proper welding and can use a tape measure.
 
What welder are you using? Was thinking fluxcore 145 amp would work, but I dont have alot of experience welding. So gonna need t practice before I hit install the center skid sections.
Let us know how it goes.
Fluxcore 145a will work great... did my whole jeep with a Lincoln 140, has no issue with 1/4" stuff and bigger.... the fluxcore is way more forgiving than using argon.

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Just got a quote for both sides center skid sections with with rear trail arms. $3000 cut, blasted, welded and coated.

Honestly better than I would have guessed. I'd probably pay for the peace of mind if I really couldn't do it myself
 
I've seen this first picture before and I'm still a bit confused by it - is that at the rear of the car? And is that what you see when you take off the rear bumper?