Questions About 4 Wheel Drive Lights

[KimsJeep]

So today I finally for the first time put my Jeep in 4WD. I saw the light come on when I put it in the 4H mode. Then I tried 4L. I didn't pay attention to the light when I was in that mode. When I got home I noticed in my pic I took, there was another 4WD mode light that I didn't realize it had 2. So curiosity got the best of me, and I took it down the street to just see if it changed light modes when in the different settings. I know your not supposed to put it in 4WD when on dry pavement, but I figured I was going slow and wasn't going to turn and going to take it right back out when I saw if the light changed or not. Well I did take it back out but I got to a speed bump before I could get it all the way down into 2H and I had it in the N position on the 4WD selector. Just to let you all know, one can't shift back into any selection when the jeep is stopped and running. LOL Needless to say, I had to turn the motor off and then I put it back in 2H. I took it for a drive around the block and all was still good. Sheewww. LOL

So, that leads me to question number 1. Can I shift the 4WD lever in and out of the 4H and 4L with motor off but key on so I can check the lights?

Question number 2. Where is that light located for the second 4WD light? I have had my dash apart before and I only remember seeing 'changeable' lights in the obvious places. ( The ones I changed to LED) Also, what size bulb would that one take? Would be nice to go buy a bulb before I take the dash apart again.

In the pic above you can see the light that is lit up and beside it is the other one which I would guess would be the 4L light. Then to the right of that, appears to be a little house (kind of hard to see it because of the dirt smudge) . LOL What in the world is the little house for?

 

[KimsJeep]

Ok, just remembered I downloaded the owners manual someone provided on this forum. LOL So I answered one of my questions and think I might have kind answered the other too.

The house thing is for the shift points on a manual transmission.

In the manual for a 99 TJ it shows only 1 light for 4WD so I am guessing the one that I can see but doesn't light up is possibly for a different year, but just standard in all dashes. I my thinking correct?

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

I don't know why they would have two locations for 4WD lights.

My 2006 only has one 4WD and it's in the top right corner where your house light is (I think it's an arrow pointing up). Unfortunately mine only has the number 4 beside the letters WD but no transfer case, driveshafts, axles or tires. As if being somewhat jealous of your VW collection wasn't enough.

 

[Steel City 06]

Yes, you can shift the transfer case to any position with the engine off (or on). I do it all the time. For the engine off, it's best practice to do it in neutral; however it can often be done in any gear. However, if the gears line up perfectly, you may not be able to fully shift. In that case, simply put the transmission in neutral and roll it forward or backwards a few inches, and try again.

Engine on, neutral is preferred for switching from 4hi to neutral or 4low (or the reverse). 2hi/4hi can be done at any speed in any gear, but it's best to not accelerate or decelerate during a shift.

(Pushing the clutch pedal down is also acceptable instead of neutral.)

You can also shift it at a stop most of the time. Just keep the transmission in neutral if you're switching to neutral or 4low.

It's very convenient to simply put it in 4low and lock the lockers to loosen or tighten lug nuts with the wheels in the air.

 

[KimsJeep]

Yes, you can shift the transfer case to any position with the engine off (or on). I do it all the time. For the engine off, it's best practice to do it in neutral; however it can often be done in any gear. However, if the gears line up perfectly, you may not be able to fully shift. In that case, simply put the transmission in neutral and roll it forward or backwards a few inches, and try again.

Engine on, neutral is preferred for switching from 4hi to neutral or 4low (or the reverse). 2hi/4hi can be done at any speed in any gear, but it's best to not accelerate or decelerate during a shift.

(Pushing the clutch pedal down is also acceptable instead of neutral.)

You can also shift it at a stop most of the time. Just keep the transmission in neutral if you're switching to neutral or 4low.

It's very convenient to simply put it in 4low and lock the lockers to loosen or tighten lug nuts with the wheels in the air.

Mine is an automatic.

When I ended up stopped and the transfer case was in N I couldn't move it up or down. It would grind. The engine was running. I ended up having to kill the engine, then I was able to get it back in to 4hi or 2h with no problems. Started the Jeep and it was fine and drove normal.

 

[pagrey]

In the pic above you can see the light that is lit up and beside it is the other one which I would guess would be the 4L light. Then to the right of that, appears to be a little house (kind of hard to see it because of the dirt smudge) .

I think the second light is for part-time 4wd in Jeeps that had the NP242 transfer case. Since yours has an NP231 that only does full time that light isn't used. The cluster was just designed to work in either case to save money.

 

[billiebob]

When you shift the transfer case lever from 4WD to 2WD it does not neccessarily shift the transfer case. If there is a bind in the gears the gears will not move. In the old days, like 1970s, you had to drive to remove the bind, the standard procedure was to reverse 15' with a Ford which had a 4.10 front axle ratio and a 4.11 rear axle ratio. With the TJ and most every other 4x4 today, moving the lever preloads a spring and when the bind disappears.... due to turning usually... the transfer case automatically shifts. Until that shift occurs, the light on the dash stays on.

On the check light question... likely no. you should be moving to shift and the light goes on/off after the shift happens, not when you move the lever.

Today with the same ratio in both axles shift on the fly is pretty standard. Even at 60mph, pull on the lever and you engage 4WD. Come off a gravel road, turn onto the highway, shift into 2WD, the shift occurs when the bind is gone.

Honestly, driving in 4WD on the highway is not going to be any worse than driving in 4WD on slick rock. The worst thing about 4WD on dry pavement is going to be excessive tire wear. Do a tight 360 in a parking lot in 4WD..... you'll leave a bunch of short skids as the tires bind up and jump..... but you will not damage anything except tread life.

Automatics are no different than a manual with the clutch out. There is a very specific procedure in the TJ Manual about shifting the automatic in and out of 4WD. Read the manual or google it. Except for a 5.9 Grand Cherokee....I have never owned a 4x4 without a clutch.

ps... even the TJ Manual tells you to expect a bit of a grind shifting from 4HI to 4LO.

The TJ Manual and the jeep.com website are your best resources. jeep.com has a series of videos on every current Jeep 4x4 System. Absolutely the best resource.

https://www.jeep.com/4x4.html
edit.... I think they took the videos away ... idiots in marketing ....

More on 4WD.... since there is no differential in the Wrangler transfer case... when in 4WD front & rear axles turn at the same speeds.... hence the wheel hop. But on a slippery surface that same force will push the Jeep in a straight line..... not nice in a parking lot. I do lots of winter driving and am often in 4WD on snow covered pavement. When in a parking lot, before I turn into a parking stall... I will shift into 2WD so the Jeep will not plow straight ahead into the car in the next stall. I've done this for 45 years, you get pretty good at knowing when to shift without a bind.

 

[KimsJeep]

When you shift the transfer case lever from 4WD to 2WD it does not neccessarily shift the transfer case. If there is a bind in the gears the gears will not move. In the old days, like 1970s, you had to drive to remove the bind, the standard procedure was to reverse 15' with a Ford which had a 4.10 front axle ratio and a 4.11 rear axle ratio. With the TJ and most every other 4x4 today, moving the lever preloads a spring and when the bind disappears.... due to turning usually... the transfer case automatically shifts. Until that shift occurs, the light on the dash stays on.

Today with the same ratio in both axles shift on the fly is pretty standard. Even at 60mph, pull on the lever and you engage 4WD. Come off a gravel road, turn onto the highway, shift into 2WD, the shift occurs when the bind is gone.

Honestly, driving in 4WD on the highway is not going to be any worse than driving in 4WD on slick rock. The worst thing about 4WD on dry pavement is going to be excessive tire wear. Do a tight 360 in a parking lot in 4WD..... you'll leave a bunch of short skids as the tires bind up and jump..... but you will not damage anything except tread life.

Automatics are no different than a manual with the clutch out. There is a very specific procedure in the TJ Manual about shifting the automatic in and out of 4WD. Read the manual or google it. Except for a 5.9 Grand Cherokee....I have never owned a 4x4 without a clutch.

ps... even the TJ Manual tells you to expect a bit of a grind shifting from 4HI to 4LO.

The TJ Manual and the jeep.com website are your best resources. jeep.com has a series of videos on every current Jeep 4x4 System. Absolutely the best resource.

https://www.jeep.com/4x4.html

Thanks for the info. I did remember I downloaded a manual and I did read it. It said to always be moving at least 2 to 3 mph when shifting into 4Lo and visa versa. Well, I ended up stopped when I tried to shift from 4lo back into 4hi and had the transfer case in N. I couldn't get it to go either direction with out grinding. That is why I turned the Jeep off and then shifted it. I hate to say it, but I think I read that in my Liberty's manual back when I had it. It too, I never got to 4WD in. Didn't have it long enough. LOL

I'll for sure go and check out the website you suggested so I can get some pointers on how to do all this!.

What go me motivated to finally start trying to get into 4WD was there was an event near me today. I was awake at 2am with anxieties because I wanted to go, but at the same time was nervous because I had never had it in 4WD. Needless to say, I chickened out and didn't go. I will for sure go to the next one since I am now somewhat good with how to shift it and am learning even more through you guys!! Thanks for all the info.

 

[AndyG]

As a rule , you don’t want to be moving much going into 4lo .

Also , on an auto , you can back up a little , and that can take the strain off the chain and gears and make an easy shift.

The linkage needs to be sprayed with a quality spray lube occasionally .

This helps it to move ....and makes it easier to disassemble and install a Savvy cable (visualize a smiley here )

 

[KimsJeep]

As a rule , you don’t want to be moving much going into 4lo .

Also , on an auto , you can back up a little , and that can take the strain off the chain and gears and make an easy shift.

The linkage needs to be sprayed with a quality spray lube occasionally .

This helps it to move ....and makes it easier to disassemble and install a Savvy cable (visualize a smiley here )

Thanks. Next time I can get it up on the lift I will be sure to lube everything. Didn't even think of that before. Thanks for the tip.

I will make sure I am moving from now on. I don't plan on shifting into 4wd on pavement anymore. Heck I drove 20 miles or so just to get to a gravel road to do it for the first time. LOL Only reason I tried on pavement was to see if that second light I saw in the pic would light up. LOL I couldn't remember if it lit up when I was on the gravel road.

 

[AndyG]

Just try not to be moving much at all into 4 lo, it is not synchronized. That’s the noise you hear . You never want to force it in or out . It will shift at a dead stop generally , but you can bump the brakes and roll it a foot or so ..when it’s ready, it will slip right in .

Wd 40 brand spray gel lubricant is good, as well as the aerosol “slick stuff” Lowe’s sells . It is super slick.

 

[billiebob]

Thanks. Next time I can get it up on the lift I will be sure to lube everything. Didn't even think of that before. Thanks for the tip.

I will make sure I am moving from now on. I don't plan on shifting into 4wd on pavement anymore. Heck I drove 20 miles or so just to get to a gravel road to do it for the first time. LOL Only reason I tried on pavement was to see if that second light I saw in the pic would light up. LOL I couldn't remember if it lit up when I was on the gravel road.

Stick with it, you'll learn to love 4WD and what it can do. Just develop a "system" "protocol" that works, and stick to it. Best advice...always anticipate needing 4WD/4LO and shift BEFORE you get there.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

I just spent the 8 hours yesterday off roading. Every time I wanted 4Lo I just stopped, put the automatic transmission in neutral, shifted to 4Lo, put the transmission back in a gear and drove away without flooring the gas pedal the first 10 or so feet. I did the same procedure to get out of 4Lo.

I should have added this to my reply last night but I got sidetracked by VWs. Oops! It happened again.

 

[mrblaine]

When you shift the transfer case lever from 4WD to 2WD it does not neccessarily shift the transfer case. If there is a bind in the gears the gears will not move. In the old days, like 1970s, you had to drive to remove the bind, the standard procedure was to reverse 15' with a Ford which had a 4.10 front axle ratio and a 4.11 rear axle ratio. With the TJ and most every other 4x4 today, moving the lever preloads a spring and when the bind disappears.... due to turning usually... the transfer case automatically shifts. Until that shift occurs, the light on the dash stays on.

On the check light question... likely no. you should be moving to shift and the light goes on/off after the shift happens, not when you move the lever.

I really wish I knew where you get this stuff. NO, there is no spring that gets preloaded to shift either the NP231 or the NV241OR. The shift linkage connects to the shift lever on the side of the case that is attached to the end of the shift mode fork which lives in the groove on the shift mode ring. When you move the lever, it moves the ring. Period. There is some inherent give in the bushing mounted linkages but that is a design flaw of sorts and not intentionally there to be a preload spring.

As for the 4.10 versus 4.11 bullshit, that is also very common with TJ gears. Just not the Rubicon since they use the same gear set front and rear.

 

[KimsJeep]

I just spent the 8 hours yesterday off roading. Every time I wanted 4Lo I just stopped, put the automatic transmission in neutral, shifted to 4Lo, put the transmission back in a gear and drove away without flooring the gas pedal the first 10 or so feet. I did the same procedure to get out of 4Lo.

I should have added this to my reply last night but I got sidetracked by VWs. Oops! It happened again.

Weird. I don't know what I did wrong then. Mine would not get out of N (on the transfer case shifter) without grinding. When I say grinding I mean like trying to put a manual in gear with out pushing the clutch in. Only thing I can think of is maybe I still had it in Drive for the transmission? I'm almost positive it wasn't though.

On that note, when I do it while rolling with tranny in N, it doesn't grind. I mean I hear a little clunk or what ever when it goes in but other then that it is not grinding like I described above.