Seriously, WTH is up with my LJ Rubicon?
- Thread starter GorillaBiscuit
- Start date
I screenshotted this from another thread because I’m too lazy to type it all out lol.
Is it possible the TPS problems began in the first place because of the CS?
Is it possible the TPS problems began in the first place because of the CS?
@Brianj5600 , I haven't checked all the vacuum lines yet, because the jeep starts up and drives great at first, then is freaks out after driving it for a while. I figured if it was a vacuum leak it would do it all the time instead of off and on. But I do intend to give all the vacuum lines a through check for sure. I haven't completely ruled out a vacuum leak yet.
@Jamison C , very interesting! This is something I haven't heard about yet. I will definitely look into this some more. I haven't checked the clock spring at all yet.
@Jamison C , very interesting! This is something I haven't heard about yet. I will definitely look into this some more. I haven't checked the clock spring at all yet.
I think all those sensors, the OPDA and TPS and have the same 5V supply line from the PCM and use a ground that is right next to the OPDA assembly. Although one sensor might have gone bad it is possible you have a wiring issue and messing with the harness is making it worse. I hope the spark plugs work although they normally just throw misfire codes and make things a little rough. Personally I'd be taking a really close look at the harness and grounds like @rasband mentioned.
Yes, I was looking at the wiring diagram this morning and checking out the ground wires. I'm definitely going to get my volt meter out and start checking into some things. The jeep is still completely stock so that makes it a little bit easier, I think.
I have a brand new clock spring at the house if you need to test one. I bought it thinking I had a CS issue, turned out to be a wire that was cut and not put back together by the PO. I would prefer to get it back, but this would save you almost $300 just to test something. Dealership wouldn't let me return it since it was "special order".
I’m dealing with this crap with my sons bronco.. not sure if this will help but one of the sensors I replaced on his bronco the forum I read said you must disconnect the battery for 5 minutes... reconnect battery and start it up and let it idle for 15 minutes so the computer can “learn” to put everything back to where it was...
@S.McArthur , thank you for the offer, that's really awesome. I think if I can't get it sorted out by chasing vacuum lines and ground wires I'm going to buy a new clock spring and just replace it. The reason I'm buying and changing so many parts is because I'm trying to change everything while these parts are still mostly available. Trying to future proof it as much as I can.
@Hog , I've done this several times.
Whenever I disconnect the battery, I leave it off usually for a couple of hours. When I reconnect the battery, I just let sit it and idle for usually 20 or 30 minutes hoping that something somewhere resets. Lol!!
@Hog , I've done this several times.
Whenever I disconnect the battery, I leave it off usually for a couple of hours. When I reconnect the battery, I just let sit it and idle for usually 20 or 30 minutes hoping that something somewhere resets. Lol!!
My furnace didn't start up here the first night it got down to freezing. I threatened it with a large hammer and it's been working since. You might try that. 
I saw a thread that said that there were different ways to do this , and one way was to connect the cables to each other . It seems there may be ways to do it where you can manipulate the system more . I’m sure there is misinformation as well , so proceed wisely.
I would be looking at the vacuum lines and any unmetered air that might be entering.
the clock spring is interesting too.
the clock spring is interesting too.
Jeanfi007
Member
Hello,
To do a pcm reset.
you put the key in the contact, you don't turn it,
you disconnect your battery +, and you remove the key of contact,
you put the cable + on the mass for 1 mn to unload,
then you reconnect the + of the battery,
you put the key, you turn it ON without starting,
light your lights 15/20 seconds,
You turn off lights,
remove the keys from the contact, then put it back in and restart.
Drive a few days with, it will be recalibrated.
Good luck and I hope that will good for you
Well, I found something interesting today.
The plug gaps were way off! They were all different, and ranged between .060 and .075! I bought a new set of the auto lite plugs and gapped them to .035.
I don't think this will fix my problem, but maybe it might help with something. Lol
The plug gaps were way off! They were all different, and ranged between .060 and .075! I bought a new set of the auto lite plugs and gapped them to .035.
I don't think this will fix my problem, but maybe it might help with something. Lol
I back probed the plug for the TPS and I've got a good ground on the middle blue wire with green stripe, a constant 5v on the pink and yellow supply wire, and on the brown and orange signal wire, I've got like .7v with the throttle closed, and it goes up to around 3.7v with the throttle wide open. And of course the voltage changes as the throttle body opens and closes.
Does this sound like it's supposed to be doing what it's supposed to?
Does this sound like it's supposed to be doing what it's supposed to?
With that little voltage boy it wouldn't take much for a a sticky butterfly to cause grief
I've cleaned that throttle body so many times it should be illegal!! Lol!!!
I really want to know about that signal wire. I was getting 3.7 to 3.8 at WOT. I think it's supposed to be closer to 4v.
If anyone here knows what the appropriate range is at WOT please let me know.
Chris has a thread where he hooked up a deal to his supercharged TJ and he had full PCM access... and also if he doesn't still have that set up another forum member may own it now... From what he illustrated if there is anything that you plug in that would tell you what's going on... what he had would do it.
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