What did you do to your TJ today?

madcanvis said:
Tried to R/R door bushings but the doors didn’t cooperate (ie: remove)

So I’ve been sitting on 2 new paddle door handles. What a difference!
1st one took about 2 hours (start to finish) 2nd one took 45 min.

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A little lube and swinging the doors back and forth while lifting should get the doors off. I had the same issue and it took a bit of time and a lot of effort.
 
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3 hours later... my door hinge bushings are replace. Apparently the PO didn’t GAF.
Had to use an awl and needle nose pliers. It suuucked!
Needless to say they’re done and looking forward to spring.
Question:
seems like there’s a bit of play between the bushing and hinge thru hole- is this normal?
Should I get better bushings?

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madcanvis said:
3 hours later... my door hinge bushings are replace. Apparently the PO didn’t GAF.
Had to use an awl and needle nose pliers. It suuucked!
Needless to say they’re done and looking forward to spring.
Question:
seems like there’s a bit of play between the bushing and hinge thru hole- is this normal?
Should I get better bushings?

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I used the Kentrol bushings. They are a composite material that won't corrode. I had no play between my hinges and bushings. In fact I had to give them a little tap to seat them completely.
 
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I stared at my Jeep all day while I removed the 8' fluorescent lights in my garage to replace them with LED's. I took the tubes out, cut out the ballasts, re-wired, went inside to get the new LED tubes and then realized they have the button ends on them as opposed to the dual-bayonet ends. Went inside and ordered the new ends and made a sammich.
 
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jeepins said:
I stared at my Jeep all day while I removed the 8' fluorescent lights in my garage to replace them with LED's. I took the tubes out, cut out the ballasts, re-wired, went inside to get the new LED tubes and then realized they have the button ends on them as opposed to the dual-bayonet ends. Went inside and ordered the new ends and made a sammich.
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You should see a significant energy savings. Those fluorescent tubes are energy hogs. I did that about4yrs ago.
 
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Nordic said:
How far is the standoff from the floor pan so as to keep it from a rain soaked carpet, and did you remove the seat to install it?

I was considering getting the same sub and finding a way to mount it in the center console, but if it fits well beneath the seat I might just do what you're doing. The only thing I'm somewhat concerned about is weather as I've been rained out a couple of times with doors off, but if it's tucked up in there enough it may not be an issue.
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It's right on the floor, I wouldn't count on it being waterproof from the package. I have until spring to figure out how to weatherproof it. I managed to wiggle it in from the back of the seat without removing it. I plan on pulling the seat to add the 4 inch extension, when I do that Ill figure out how to weatherproof it.
 
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The blower fan hasn't been pushing much air through the heater box lately, so I decided it was time to pull the fan and remove the leaf collection. While I was at it, I found a use for the extra CJ mirror I have. Beats trying to stand on my head in the passenger floorboard.

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Pulled the passenger side carpet and let it dry today... getting water under the carpet. i guess im lucky its not antifreeze. looks like the water may be entering from the seal where the little vacuum line goes in through the firewall in the engine bay as i can see water stains from that general area under the dash. gotta figure out my plan of attack now. the cowl is spotless and drain is clear unfortunately. im crossing my fingers i may be blasting that area with the power washer a little carelessly. the passenger side carpet is currently inside drying out.

Washed, soaped, rinsed, clay bar'd and waxed my dads BMW today after my Jeep turned out so well after the same work done to it yesterday, sun was going down so photos not as spectacular as it can be. the clay bar is absolutely amazing at picking up all the little s**t stuck to the paint effortlessly that hand washing with soap will not get off, well worth a try if you haven't tried clay bars yet.

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MountaineerTom said:
I used Delrin bushings and like @All 4 Wheelin' , I had to tap mine in too.
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I still haven't installed my Delrin bushing as I cant get the old ones out....F@#$* thing!! I keep coming back to it try for an hour then give up and put it off for week or two haha
 
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03coloradowrangler said:
noticed the valve cover gasket was leaking when changing out the trans fluid last night. picked up a new gasket and replaced it. that plastic wire loom bridge on the rear was a tad of a hassle but i think i was more irritated with how many times i scratched, nicked or cut my skin with all the sharp plastic loom and other plastics in the general area.

i think cleaning the seals mating surfaces was more of a pain in the ass than the loom bridge at the rear.
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Same struggle changing the valve cover gasket on mine until discovering the vent duct against the firewall rotates to allow that wire bundle more room to push back.
 
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