High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story

[someguysjeep]

on that skid arm, could you or would you trust a couple pipe spacers with gussets welded to the angle? that might give you room to reach around the sensor. the question is would it provide the stiffness you need for the skid?
the gusset should accomplish that, it'd still have the bend the angle for it to fail. or shear a bolt, but that could happen to either configuration............... just a thought.

 

[jjvw]

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The flange after the cat was changed to a more available style and then a Thrush Hush muffler (17633) at the recommendation of @jjvw (@jjvw oddly the muffler that wasn't correct for you was the one that fit for me. Do you remember why you didn't like the fit of the 17633?). ...

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To get the muffler tucked as high as it'd go it had to be moved back. The rear skid support will need to be notched.

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When I put mine together, I was using pre bent sections to route the tail pipe. And I hadn't done the outboard yet. The outlet ended up on the transfer case side with a big snakey down and up to clear the drooped upper arm and stuffed axle. And the rear stiffener is in the way the same way it is on yours. I decided to dent in the muffler rather than cut the stiffener on something I knew was temporary. I have more room now, but I want to wait until I cut and raise the rear frame so I can stuff the tail pipe as high and tight as I can. And I will have a professional muffler shop do the work instead of unprofessional me.

It looks like I can actually copy most of what you did. The back end of your muffler is landing just like mine at the control arm brackets. I will need to get comfortable trimming the stiffener, though.

 

[toximus]

It looks like I can actually copy most of what you did.

I was thinking about this too and if I could have mine copied for other people. Even Savvy could sell a muffler/tailpipe as an add-on for their mid-arm kit — a production copy would certainly be cheaper than what I paid so they could set the price half way and everyone would be happy. I think only 1 version would be needed and they could include a different spacer off the muffler for the LJ. I don't think mine would actually be great for an exact copy since my frame is different and I think my tailpipe would hit the gas tank. Like you said you could copy most of it though. Just an interesting thought.

At some point I plan to bring the khaki TJ to the same shop to bend up a new pipe for it that can be removed without drooping or removing the axle and the Thrust muffler is quieter.

I will need to get comfortable trimming the stiffener, though.

I don't think it'll be too bad. I'll trace where it needs cutting and then weld a plate across the inside to help carry the load across the weakened area.

 

[someguysjeep]

yall think the pipe after the muffler could be run through the frame rail (w/double wall pipe) and out the back end? it'd be easy enough to fit when it's cut for a back 1/2 kit. double wall pipe should keep it from heat soaking the frame.

 

[toximus]

on that skid arm, could you or would you trust a couple pipe spacers with gussets welded to the angle? that might give you room to reach around the sensor. the question is would it provide the stiffness you need for the skid?
the gusset should accomplish that, it'd still have the bend the angle for it to fail. or shear a bolt, but that could happen to either configuration............... just a thought.

I could do something like that but I think it'll be more work than drilling and welding in a new bung. I already ordered 308L mig wire too.

 

[toximus]

yall think the pipe after the muffler could be run through the frame rail (w/double wall pipe) and out the back end? it'd be easy enough to fit when it's cut for a back 1/2 kit. double wall pipe should keep it from heat soaking the frame.

Similarly, I had thought about going out the body. I think either one would transmit a ton of noise inside the Jeep without a proper isolator.

 

[Fouledplugs]

yall think the pipe after the muffler could be run through the frame rail (w/double wall pipe) and out the back end? it'd be easy enough to fit when it's cut for a back 1/2 kit. double wall pipe should keep it from heat soaking the frame.

Yes. Anything is possible these days. I have seen the exhaust run out of rock sliders and the rear of the tub. Nothing would surprise me. Not saying its a bad idea, there are lot of options when you really set your mind to it.

 

[toximus]

My wife picked up the pressure washer from the repair shop this morning so I decided I needed to test it and wash the Jeeps. So I bundled up and cleaned 'em in the balmy 28F weather. The pressure washer worked well but the soap kept freezing on the Jeep . I got the salt off from getting the exhaust work done.

When I was washing it I noticed that the Currie unit bearings started to rust overnight so that's going on my list of things to paint:

This weekend I'll be cleaning the garage and regrouping as I enter into the final details phase of my build. I need to get a shopping list together for a couple of small fittings and screws. I don't expect much build progress this weekend.

 

[mrblaine]

I was thinking about this too and if I could have mine copied for other people. Even Savvy could sell a muffler/tailpipe as an add-on for their mid-arm kit — a production copy would certainly be cheaper than what I paid so they could set the price half way and everyone would be happy.

You need to run the customer service side of Jeep Parts for sale for a bit. The enlightenment is priceless. Two things, if you find a way to make 30 of your muffler kits, I'll sell them for you. I will not answer any customer service calls on them though and all returns go back to you. Not that you have a bad idea or that it is a bad idea but here is what will happen. There are 10 aftermarket exhaust systems out there. There are 1000's of Jeep owners who have had a hand of some sort in how their exhaust is routed, sized, and installed. That doesn't take into account normal trail smashing and bashing. The odds of any part fitting are about 1 in 20 and the owner isn't going to listen to you and why what you made won't fit and work with the non standard beat to shit exhaust system. That and if you charge what it is worth, fully half of the comments online will be from some asshole telling you he can run down to his local tube mangler and have it done "custom" for half of what you are asking.

 

[toximus]

You need to run the customer service side of Jeep Parts for sale for a bit. The enlightenment is priceless. Two things, if you find a way to make 30 of your muffler kits, I'll sell them for you. I will not answer any customer service calls on them though and all returns go back to you. Not that you have a bad idea or that it is a bad idea but here is what will happen. There are 10 aftermarket exhaust systems out there. There are 1000's of Jeep owners who have had a hand of some sort in how their exhaust is routed, sized, and installed. That doesn't take into account normal trail smashing and bashing. The odds of any part fitting are about 1 in 20 and the owner isn't going to listen to you and why what you made won't fit and work with the non standard beat to shit exhaust system. That and if you charge what it is worth, fully half of the comments online will be from some asshole telling you he can run down to his local tube mangler and have it done "custom" for half of what you are asking.

Sounds about right. A real bummer.

 

[toximus]

Just a little update.

I cleaned and organized the garage to regain work area, ordered a few small remaining parts I need in order to finish, and my shock tuner recommended the springs I'll need for the coilovers. Thankfully Accutune had no problem accepting my request to swap springs however a couple of sizes are on backorder.

Calculating the sprung weight is easy with coilovers. Since I have 175lb springs in, 1" of compression = 175lbs, 2" of compression = 350lbs.

My Jeep weighs roughly 3616lbs total based on measuring how much the springs are compressed + shipping weight of unsprung parts. Without going on a scale I'm sure it's off slightly due to adding brackets to the axles etc, but I think it's within 50lbs. Here's the breakdown:

Front left (driver): 9-1/2" spring length = 787.5 lbs
Front right (passenger): 9-1/2" = 787.5 lbs
Rear left: 10-1/2" = 612.5 lbs
Rear right: 10-3/4" = 568.75 lbs
Total: 2,756lbs sprung weight.

Shipping weight on the axles was 860 lbs (includes 2 pallets, but I've added brackets), 31lbs per rim, and 73lbs per tire.

 

[toximus]

Because I had the belt alignment issue on the steering pump and I've replaced enough other components I wanted to more thoroughly check the pulley alignment so I can get a long life out of the belt and not be throwing them. I used Gates DriveAlign laser tool (91075). It was nice to be able to verify alignment across the engine which I couldn't do with a ruler. Everything is within 1/2 rib and doesn't require any further alignment.

 

[toximus]

While taking the coils off to ship back, I noticed some rubbing had occurred between the fitting on the hydroassist cylinder and the airbump. During the test drives I had felt when turning a couple of times that I was fighting with the steering and I think this was the reason. It only happens when turning right and the cylinder moves rearward toward the bumpstop. I cycled the axle and steering for a couple of hours tonight to try and figure out a better way to route the lines. I can't rotate the cylinder to move the fittings higher or they hit the track bar, pointing them between the trackbar and draglink is like threading a needle and the gap isn't big enough. I need to sleep on it. Any ideas?

 

[B00mb00m]

While taking the coils off to ship back, I noticed some rubbing had occurred between the fitting on the hydroassist cylinder and the airbump. During the test drives I had felt when turning a couple of times that I was fighting with the steering and I think this was the reason. It only happens when turning right and the cylinder moves rearward toward the bumpstop. I cycled the axle and steering for a couple of hours tonight to try and figure out a better way to route the lines. I can't rotate the cylinder to move the fittings higher or they hit the track bar, pointing them between the trackbar and draglink is like threading a needle and the gap isn't big enough. I need to sleep on it. Any ideas?

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You can get custom hoses mad that are a bit lower clearance than those field fittings from PSC.

 

[B00mb00m]

Here's a pic the fitting in foreground is the permanent fitting. The diameter is smaller due to the crimp in lieu of thread

 

[someguysjeep]

smaller fitting, like mentioned. or tighten the bend on that 90 some how.
i thought i read you had some fittings reworked for the A/C ? could that guy redo that fitting as well or offer a tighter bend.
it'd be a nice option if they offered an inlet that was plumbed with a short sweep 90* and you could tap in with a straight connector.

 

[mrblaine]

smaller fitting, like mentioned. or tighten the bend on that 90 some how.
i thought i read you had some fittings reworked for the A/C ? could that guy redo that fitting as well or offer a tighter bend.
it'd be a nice option if they offered an inlet that was plumbed with a short sweep 90* and you could tap in with a straight connector.

They do make that type of fitting. PSC doesn't use or recommend it due to restricted flow rates.

 

[someguysjeep]

the 4x4 outlet back 1/2 kit, any particular reason you went that route? wondering if you see something i'm not.

i see artec and davescustoms as similar, and a few others with fuller kits, for double the cost.

artec uses a 3x2 tube and daves uses a 4x2, does the 3" section offer you any extra a 4" wouldn't?
no concern about the CO or tower on a smaller tube?

 

[toximus]

the 4x4 outlet back 1/2 kit, any particular reason you went that route? wondering if you see something i'm not.

i see artec and davescustoms as similar, and a few others with fuller kits, for double the cost.

artec uses a 3x2 tube and daves uses a 4x2, does the 3" section offer you any extra a 4" wouldn't?
no concern about the CO or tower on a smaller tube?

My first choice would be modifying the stock frame by welding a piece of 2.5x4 to the inboard side, plating it, and cutting the outboard side.

My frame had significant rust in the crossmember, probably fine for a street jeep but I had concerns for taking it on extreme trails. Instead of finding a good frame I opted to backhalf it.

I didn't like how far inboard the other kits placed the tubing which would require moving the body mounts. And 2x3 is all that's required.

4x4 Outlets kit allowed me to keep the "body lift" (actually raised body mounts) and remove the spacers from under the tub without any extra work. Thus tucking the frame up higher. The bottom of the back crossmember of my Jeep is actually 2.25" higher than the stock frame would be. I did have to come up with my own way to drop the frame rail in the back to pick up the rear body mounts. I also found that the kit allowed a lot of "wiggle" movement on the bends so I gusseted them.

Looking back, if I had a metal break at the time I would make my own.

I don't have any concerns with the hoops running off of the smaller tube. I do have a 2.5x4 crossmember between them under the tub so that would have to bend before the smaller tubing would fail.

 

[someguysjeep]

my cross member above the tank is on it's way to rustville. i already have a fuel cell in anticipation of this mod. it'll allow a stretch. with my 65" axles i don't need a lot of narrowing, but some would help. i'll look at what a 2.5-3" offset of center would come to look like. and look at all 3 of those pre-made's more closely.

i did notice you braced things and caught how you did that dip at the back end. and i'll be reading it through again.
and maybe even swiping an idea or 2.

thank you.