OP
I did a mock up in September and have been installing them as I'm getting different areas together.
High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
I did a mock up in September and have been installing them as I'm getting different areas together.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
What made you switch torsion bar in gear? I'm experiencing too easy of steering at highway speeds. I've been dialing in caster and has helped some but if I had to guess I'd say I'm getting too much assist for highway speeds. Feels like when I input a sharp steering input its easy to over correct. Wondering if I need a stronger torsion spring.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I feel like the crimp.may get you there depending on just how much interference there is
Torsion bar, not spring. The torsion bar opens the assist valving when you turn the steering wheel. A heavier torsion bar gives you a heavier feel on the highway at speed making it generally more comfortable to drive. We are ordering them with 210's.
OP
OP
I just got off the phone with PSC to see if they have anything available. He said the male AN fittings on the cylinder screw in. They are "6MJ-6MB" which appears to be an ORB. https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=00318775 I thought they were welded on so this changes things.
They must be hex-less?
They must be hex-less?
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
or did he mean to say they screwed in b4 they were welded? i might want to clean the paint off and see a seam b4 trying to crank on it, IDK.
i did come up with 2 fittings, both have a -6 female end. 1 is just a 90, -6F to -6M, 1.25x1.5".
the other is a brass tube 90, -6 to about 1 and 1/8" w/7/16 center,1.375x2.625" .
most all of the stuff we have left is pretty big.
if you think either will help, they're yours.
Not sure who you talked to but the -6 male fittings sticking out of the cylinder are welded. The ones in the steering gear for the hydro-assist ports are screwed in.
OP
We specifically were talking about the cylinder. He repeated it back to me several times in the context of it being located on the axle. IIRC Preston was his name? I probably should have talked to Kalvin...
Well, whip out your mightiest unscrewing tool including anything impact, hydraulic, flame, or any combination thereof and try to unscrew those welded fittings. I'll wait.
OP
Don't need to fix it if the Jeep is on fire!
I took a break from being a keyboard mechanic to look and I don't see any way that those fittings unscrew.
OP
I split the fuel pump wiring harness under the Jeep to add a connector. This way the body can be separated from the frame without cutting wires if ever needed in the future.
Let me put this a different way. I needed some stuff from PSC. Everyone was gone but Preston. I waited until they got back from being on vacation.
OP
I'm catching that drift. I looked back at who I placed my original order with that I only received half the items from (on that order half of the items I needed were never entered and I had to pay shipping all over again... thankfully I found the part numbers on Summit and saved). Guess who entered the order?
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
OP
toximus said:
I think I found where the noise was coming from. The transmission lines were pressed against the driver's floor. They had already done a good job of denting the tub so I finished the job by wedging a prybar between them and made some room.
ok, i been diggin around looking at the fuel cell install........and i hate to put another thing on your punch list but i do believe it needs corrected.
i kinda misunderstood this routing of the vent line. the path of across the tank, then down, then back across. i literally assumed you wrapped the cell across down and back across b4 exiting out, not inverting the system to under meaning as in when rolled over, then the B bar line is under the cell.
there is a dip in the line. right off the cell it dips just slightly to enter that B bar, this is the spot that will make you suck bubbles if you splash fuel into that line. putting a hole in the padding 3-4" higher and entering there might fix it.
or
maybe wait to fix this (and you may have to wait for your fancy fuel filler to do this). the end vent should also be a rollover valve, it's supposed to breath not spill fuel. so once your get that exterior filler frame fixed just make provisions to use a bulkhead rollover vent beside the filler. and reverse plumb the valve's and the tube can rise right off the cell with the filler neck, and be outside and always elevating/elevated.
i kinda misunderstood this routing of the vent line. the path of across the tank, then down, then back across. i literally assumed you wrapped the cell across down and back across b4 exiting out, not inverting the system to under meaning as in when rolled over, then the B bar line is under the cell.
there is a dip in the line. right off the cell it dips just slightly to enter that B bar, this is the spot that will make you suck bubbles if you splash fuel into that line. putting a hole in the padding 3-4" higher and entering there might fix it.
or
maybe wait to fix this (and you may have to wait for your fancy fuel filler to do this). the end vent should also be a rollover valve, it's supposed to breath not spill fuel. so once your get that exterior filler frame fixed just make provisions to use a bulkhead rollover vent beside the filler. and reverse plumb the valve's and the tube can rise right off the cell with the filler neck, and be outside and always elevating/elevated.
I've read through your thread but it's been a while, did you adjust your wheelbase at all front and/or rear?