High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story

my cross member above the tank is on it's way to rustville. i already have a fuel cell in anticipation of this mod. it'll allow a stretch. with my 65" axles i don't need a lot of narrowing, but some would help. i'll look at what a 2.5-3" offset of center would come to look like. and look at all 3 of those pre-made's more closely.

i did notice you braced things and caught how you did that dip at the back end. and i'll be reading it through again.
and maybe even swiping an idea or 2.

thank you.

What are you doing for coilovers/springs?
 
14" ORI's up front and i'd like to pair them with 12's in the rear. CO would be similarly mounted and could be an option. for this i want the rear frame up and slightly narrowed.
 
You can get custom hoses mad that are a bit lower clearance than those field fittings from PSC.

smaller fitting, like mentioned. or tighten the bend on that 90 some how.
i thought i read you had some fittings reworked for the A/C ? could that guy redo that fitting as well or offer a tighter bend.
it'd be a nice option if they offered an inlet that was plumbed with a short sweep 90* and you could tap in with a straight connector.

They do make that type of fitting. PSC doesn't use or recommend it due to restricted flow rates.
View attachment 133698

Worst case I will remove the front airbumps.

I'm cruising Google Images for a fitting with a longer section of tube to clear the bumpstop before getting into the crimp portion. Somewhere in the ballpark of 3-1/2" length of tube. So far I've found what's called a "long drop" fitting but the extended portion is on the wrong side of the 90*. Does anyone know of such a fitting? It can be crimp or field serviceable. I created a mockup of what I'm looking for:

ha-fitting-needed.jpg
 
Worst case I will remove the front airbumps.

I'm cruising Google Images for a fitting with a longer section of tube to clear the bumpstop before getting into the crimp portion. Somewhere in the ballpark of 3-1/2" length of tube. So far I've found what's called a "long drop" fitting but the extended portion is on the wrong side of the 90*. Does anyone know of such a fitting? It can be crimp or field serviceable. I created a mockup of what I'm looking for:

View attachment 133882

that might just get you enough room to influence the bend if needed. but just moving the fitting down the line may gain the clearance there just by the lessor diameter of the tube vs the fitting.
where's the witness mark on the fitting?

we do custom hydraulic lines and have quite an assortment of fittings, lemme look around tomrw. what size are the ends?

Parker offers a 56 series which they say is shorter and more compact.
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/global-fittings-56-series-inch
 
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If you have a fitting that will work I'll happily pay you for your time to make a hose.

It's weatherhead hose with #6 fittings. Other high pressure hose would be acceptable but would need to have a field serviceable end on the other side so I can clock it (if that's not possible I'll have to cross that bridge when I get to it).

where's the witness mark on the fitting?

Right near the scored depth markings on the nut. The fitting only moves in and out as the steering turns not across (aside from minute movement due to the track bar) .

IMG_20200111_105813.jpg
 
Is it hitting the cap screw end on the air bump clamp? Would a button head allen cap screw with the head facing the other direction make for more clearance? Just spit balling.
 
I'm realizing just how difficult the perspective of these pictures are. Here's the problem areas circled.

IMG_20200112_150127.png
IMG_20200112_150313.png
 
this thing pictured is more like what i was thinking, small and lets the feed line enter along the body not 90* off. but i can't decipher their parts # sys

https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-p...lies/megacrimp-couplings/p/7100-000000-000000

i'll see whats at work, we don't make many hoses anymore, but have a lot of parts......i'll let you know.

That may work. However it's hard to tell without having a diagram or physical part to compare. I can't tell if the crimp is positioned the same distance from the cylinder just closer to the AN fitting?

@mrblaine is the sweeping 90 required for the flow rate or is a tight 90 like this okay?

2020-01-12_17-31-25.jpg
 
That may work. However it's hard to tell without having a diagram or physical part to compare. I can't tell if the crimp is positioned the same distance from the cylinder just closer to the AN fitting?

@mrblaine is the sweeping 90 required for the flow rate or is a tight 90 like this okay?

View attachment 133997
It is typically recommended not to use the drilled fittings and use only the bent tube style. Given that will be the only one in the system, it may be worth a shot. Worst is you have slightly slower turn to the left under hard use.
 
Earlier this week I sent my steering gear off to PSC to adjust which torsion bar is in it. So my Jeep is parked until I get it back.

When ordering the -10 AN fittings for the steering pump feed hose I was sent the wrong blue/red color and was told to keep them and was refunded my order since they were unable to get the correct color for me. I reordered the silver color from another store and they've been on back order since October. I finally got them on Friday and while I have a steering fluid mess going on I figured there's no better time to swap the hose.

20200110_steering-feed-hose.jpg
 
It is typically recommended not to use the drilled fittings and use only the bent tube style. Given that will be the only one in the system, it may be worth a shot. Worst is you have slightly slower turn to the left under hard use.

Hopefully a longer bent tube can be found. That still seems ideal. I'm still looking.
 
Earlier this week I sent my steering gear off to PSC to adjust which torsion bar is in it. So my Jeep is parked until I get it back.

When ordering the -10 AN fittings for the steering pump feed hose I was sent the wrong blue/red color and was told to keep them and was refunded my order since they were unable to get the correct color for me. I reordered the silver color from another store and they've been on back order since October. I finally got them on Friday and while I have a steering fluid mess going on I figured there's no better time to swap the hose.

View attachment 134133
-12 and all you had to do was say something. I would have traded you -12 silver for yours. Color doesn't affect how they work.
 
-12 and all you had to do was say something. I would have traded you -12 silver for yours. Color doesn't affect how they work.

Correct, -12.

Don't worry about it, it was during a time of buying handfuls of fittings at a time so they slipped into another order.
 
I cut the cargo area carpet to fit around the fuel cell. This should help cut down some noise. It seems like the short piece is staying put but if it moves around I'll put a strip of velcro under it. The wheel arch carpet will be going in after I secure the coilover covers (after I'm "done" tuning so removing the COs is easier).

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I custom ordered a tire tie down strap from Mac's. It's their 1" strap lengthened for a 37" tire. Normally they use a 2" strap and larger ratchet but I think it's overkill for this position. This 1" strap is rated to 2800lb minimum breaking strength. The spare tire is already wedged in the tub so all I'm looking to do by adding a strap is to prevent the tire from flying in the event of a rollover.

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The ends are light weight adjustable loops. The tire is still quick to release by undoing the ratchet — the loops don't need to be touched.

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(Painting the beadlock ring was something I tried. However I think I'm going to strip it back to raw aluminum.)

I'm starting to assemble my Jeep tool kit, spare parts, and recovery gear. Once I can lay it out and see the physical size I'm going to figure out how to best pack them in the Jeep.
 
To install the center rock lights I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the body mounts to #10-24. I had some leftover bolts that were the perfect length to thread into the body mount without sticking out on top — little things like that make it nice when you run your hand over it and don't snag skin.

20200112_body-mount-rock-light.jpg
 
To install the center rock lights I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the body mounts to #10-24. I had some leftover bolts that were the perfect length to thread into the body mount without sticking out on top — little things like that make it nice when you run your hand over it and don't snag skin.

View attachment 134158
That spot looks pretty good for the rock light - have you tried them yet at night? Do they give enough light?