https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10011This seems easier to use for depth check
Basically with a dial caliper
Basically with a dial caliper
Either bearing manufacture will be fine. Both supply the OEM manufactures.Did the mfg use timken or Koyo for the bearings from factory? that way can order same bearings with the REV 538 kit.
the carrier shims are external to the bearings correct?
the pinion shims are behind the race for the depth?
Either bearing manufacture will be fine. Both supply the OEM manufactures.
As stated, both are suppliers to the OEM’s.I just pulled mine and they were Koyo from the factory
Excellent point. If the OP has the time and willingness to learn it sounds he's most likely capable of getting it done. Knowing your limitations is very important when it comes to this kind of stuff. I have a new set of gears sitting on a shelf but I doubt I will do them myself despite the fact I used to do this for a living and still have all the required tools. It's just too time consuming for me and, at this point in my life, I'd rather pay someone to get it done for me so I can spend my time and efforts elsewhere. In my 20s and early 30s I had no problem turning wrenches on my back long into the night for my latest project - at this point I'd just be frustrated thinking about all the other stuff I have to do!
most wheel bearings are closer to the .001 tolerance...precision machines get the .0001 bearings and the cost reflects that in a price of $350-3500 per bearing.hmmm wonder if the tolerance will be in the .0001" or closer to 0.001". lol
Did he have to replace anything or just play with the shims?I had to go back 3 times to get my rear redone.
3 time that mechanic tore it apart, and redid the whole thing. 3 times he could not explain to me why during the process everything was on the money, but after the drive things would come lose, shit and make noise.
I got lucky with that mechanic, as most are ignorant pricks that will blame everything but their work. After the 2nd time, i started to suspect that something was wrong with the housing. Surprisingly mechanic took it back in for the 3rd time, and it has been trouble free for the past 3000 miles.
I think i can totally do this job myself. Would i redo this job 3 times instead of getting a new axle - probably not. I would have written it off as "I definetly fucked something up, really bad, lesson learned".
Did he have to replace anything or just play with the shims?
What did you experience as issues since it sounds as though the problem did catastrophically destroy everything.
The only issue I ran into is a crush sleeve that I couldn’t crush.Something to think about... If a professional has challenges doing these from time to time... That will tell you a lot about how difficult it is to know you have everything set up correctly. The success of the work is not dependent upon turning bolts.... The success of the job is to not damage the axle seals or set up the gears improperly and damage them.
We have some brilliant people on here...so I don't want to make out like no one but a gear shop can ever do it.
When I got into it.... I quickly realized there was so much that I didn't know...I knew that I was going to have problems before I finished.... Or at least certainly felt like that was going to be likely.
Again, you have to know what you're looking for when you do these. You aren't going to put in new gears and everything just work out... There is just a lot going on...From the set up to the crush washers to not damaging the axle seals and so on and so forth.
It’s nice to hear it got worked out but I think the important thing for people willing to try this on their own is that a mistake won’t necessarily be insurmountable. Sure it’ll cost some gear oil, time and patience but it can be overcome.He had to add shims.
Issue was grinding noise during the right turn. Whining noise at some speeds and on/off throttle. Pattern and measurmentes were good according to him. Some vibes here and there. After 2nd time yoke nut came lose.
Ain't that crazy!The only issue I ran into is a crush sleeve that I couldn’t crush.
I tried a pipe on my breaker bar and couldn’t crush it.
I tried putting it in my 20ton press and couldn’t crush it.
Too this day it sits on my shelf uncrushed.
I ordered a new one overnight from Amazon and it crushed with no issues.
It’s nice to hear it got worked out but I think the important thing for people willing to try this on their own is that a mistake won’t necessarily be insurmountable. Sure it’ll cost some gear oil, time and patience but it can be overcome.
I’d have likely never given the guy a second chance even if I had to pay someone else.What is more important is to understand the mistakes.
As i mentioned before, i would have not redone my own axle 3 times, because i would have not understood what was causing issues first two times. The only reason why mechanic redid his own job was because he was paid to do it, his reputation was on the stake.
What if you do something by the instructions, and in the end result makes no sense? Follow this:
Pattern good? - yes
Backlash measurements good? - yes
Rolling resistance withing spec? - yes
Preload as it should be? - yes
Bolts are torqued to spec? - yes
Took the carrier in and out, and above results are still the same? - yes
Should be good to go, correct? - yes
Test drove, axle is making grinding and whining noise. Probably made a mistake somewhere, redo.
Try #2, redid everything, triple checked everything, slept on it and checked one more time in the mornings. Everything should be good to go, right? Test drive - same issues.
Result -.
Im not saying not to do it, no. Opposite, i encourage everyone to do it. However, i will lay reality before your eyes, this way you are aware of what you are signing up for.
I am opposite. In my eyes, now he is the most experienced one to go to.I’d have likely never given the guy a second chance even if I had to pay someone else.