Will 33s fit with no lift?

Are 4 inch lifts more expensive than say 2.5?

I’m not against lifting it higher. I’m just struggling with how I’ve took it a few places and they’re all not overly concerned on it requiring a lift (this is a service they offer so there’s money in it for them) or they’re saying a lift under 3 inches.

I’m not undervaluing the opinions of those knowledgeable in this thread. In fact I’ll be discussing the kings raised with the shop I eventually choose.

Thanks
Cost of a lift all depends on the quality of the parts included. That quality does make a difference. Generally speaking, a 4” lift will cost you more in the end because you need more parts to make it all work well. It’s one reason it is almost universally advised that someone on a tight budget look at the Zone combo 4.25”. That lift receives good reviews. Allows one to properly run 33’s, and upgrade the shocks for improved ride quality later.

If I had a dime for every time someone came on here with a misinformed shop recommendation (or quadratec for that matter), I and many others would be rich.Most shops are not Jeep enthusiasts. They haven't studied the Tj anywhere close to people like @mrblaine and @Jerry Bransford. Many of us learned from them and so we are second hand sources. I readily admit that. But it’s easy after a few years to see when a shop is in error. Despite all of this, I have seen people defer to a shop just because it’s a shop. I have also learned the hard way to never take my Jeep to a shop unless it’s gears.

You’re wise to listen to enthusiasts of any auto. They have no money interest. They just enjoy learning and understanding and sharing with others.
 
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Hey man, I am going to put a lift on for sure. I’m waiting on the shop to look it through properly but initially they advised that I’d only need a two inch lift. We will see.

Keep reading, keep asking questions and then make your own decisions and don't be in a big hurry. There is more than one way to build your Jeep and a lot of good information here to help you.
 
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I’m not saying I did this right but here’s how my LJ was in stock height for a few months before I had time to lift it and gear it. 35’s w/ 3.69 BS wheels.

FD3C2A78-A65D-41E4-A3E4-25F02D87A5C0.jpeg


Took these prior to installing the lift. Tire removed on passenger side full droop. Springs pulled. Drivers tire raised to just squeak against the fender. No interference steering lock to lock. Goes a bit higher with flare removed.

C031BA60-A53D-42C5-B451-3B332541EDB4.jpeg

ABC53F16-B363-49D4-83AD-F2F1600336AF.jpeg
 
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I’m not saying I did this right but here’s how my LJ was in stock height for a few months before I had time to lift it and gear it. 35’s w/ 3.69 BS wheels.

View attachment 138275

Took these prior to installing the lift. Tire removed on passenger side full droop. Springs pulled. Drivers tire raised to just squeak against the fender. No interference steering lock to lock. Goes a bit higher with flare removed.

View attachment 138276
View attachment 138277

With the wheels turned to full steering lock, the tires would have hit the rear wall far earlier.
 
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I’m not saying I did this right but here’s how my LJ was in stock height for a few months before I had time to lift it and gear it. 35’s w/ 3.69 BS wheels.

View attachment 138275

Took these prior to installing the lift. Tire removed on passenger side full droop. Springs pulled. Drivers tire raised to just squeak against the fender. No interference steering lock to lock. Goes a bit higher with flare removed.

View attachment 138276
View attachment 138277
On the right track. Like @jjvw said full lock to lock would be lower than that height - and it looks like bumpstop extension is needed given that is soft bump not hard.
 
The AEV highline fenders would be the only way I'd consider it, they no longer grow on trees. I run more sporty trails on occasion, so the lift comes in handy for me.
There are a few guys who have copied the AEV fender/hood without buying them. If I buy an SE thats what I'll be doing. But yes, lifts are the bolt on option.
 
On the right track. Like @jjvw said full lock to lock would be lower than that height - and it looks like bumpstop extension is needed given that is soft bump not hard.
No, I could get full lock to lock at that height no issues.

Yes, it could use a half inch bump stop but that is also a 35” tire and OP asked about 33’s.
 
no, his highline, like all the good ones moves the fender opening back

Quit saying Metalcloak is a highline. You know better. MC's rear wall is hardly better than stock.
 
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No, I could get full lock to lock at that height no issues.

Yes, it could use a half inch bump stop but that is also a 35” tire and OP asked about 33’s.
How does metal cloak do that? Any shots of the inside? Not doubting your experience - just wondering if you have any shots of lock to lock? There is no other picture on the internet that shows what we are referring to.
 
That is inconstant with several other examples of 35s under MC fenders.
It is what it is. I never had any running issues. Dick Cepek says tire diameter was 34.7”.
 
And @Alex01 is running Currie 4" springs, relocated front shock mounts, and tuned Fox shocks up front. He still needed to add some bump stop extension to keep the tires out of the wheel wells.
 
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