Any tips on replacing door bushings?
- Thread starter Lola
- Start date
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Patience. They will eventually come out. I used chisels, a punch, flat head screw driver and really any implement I could to gradually work out one that was warped and stuck.
Any pictures? How do you mean destroyed? you can use some penetrating oil too in there to help free them a bit. I found whatever little bit of "lip" I could catch a tool on and gently just kept popping and prying.
Any pictures? How do you mean destroyed? you can use some penetrating oil too in there to help free them a bit. I found whatever little bit of "lip" I could catch a tool on and gently just kept popping and prying.
If you have the door removed you may be able to use a brass punch to tap them out.... otherwise you will need to proceed as NIH posted.
it looks like someone tried to replace before i owned the jeep, and completely messed it up
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
OH yeah, destroyed indeed. Rest assured, it's not glued or welded on there even if it feels like it. You will be able to get it off, even if you have to do it in pieces.
If you could get a thin/narrow punch or anything that will serve the same purpose, get underneath and seat it on any lip you can find. Gently tap the other end of the punch with a hammer or something. Go slow and keep moving it around the outside of the bushing. Be careful not to hit or tap the hinge itself.
If you could get a thin/narrow punch or anything that will serve the same purpose, get underneath and seat it on any lip you can find. Gently tap the other end of the punch with a hammer or something. Go slow and keep moving it around the outside of the bushing. Be careful not to hit or tap the hinge itself.
small round tapered file and a bit of time will do it, it help if there is beer to drink while filing.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I used a small deepwell socket to tap it out from below, but mine were not in that condition. I want to say it was an 8 or 9 mm.
@Goatman has a good idea.
Something I did to minimize scratches and gouges was to tape some cardboard around the area I was workining in case the tools slipped.
@Goatman has a good idea.
Something I did to minimize scratches and gouges was to tape some cardboard around the area I was workining in case the tools slipped.
If you haven’t bought your delrin replacements yet, some of the kits come with the removal tool which is sized perfectly.
I did this recently and it was quite a pain. The doors hadn't been off the last 11 years at least. For me, getting the door off was the hardest part. The removal tool made getting the bushing out easy.
In one out of the four bushings, I used a chisel to get underneath the remaining lip and stand it up straight. Then I took a screwdriver and drove it down between the bushing and the hinge. That buckled the bushing (there was a seam there) and then I was able to drive it out from beneath.
In one out of the four bushings, I used a chisel to get underneath the remaining lip and stand it up straight. Then I took a screwdriver and drove it down between the bushing and the hinge. That buckled the bushing (there was a seam there) and then I was able to drive it out from beneath.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
@Mike the Silver TJ I used Delrin and the kit I purchased came with the punch tool. So far been pretty happy with them, anything was an improvement over the original stock ones that had definite reached their end of life.
FYI: the OP's jeep is a 99, which uses the older style bushing. You can't pop it out from below. The tool is useless. There is a counter-bore feature. I used a small screwdriver and used a hammer to wedge it and bend the bushing inward. Repeat this till its a wad of metal in the middle and then pop it out from below.
Then, please, go really really slow to put the new bushing. Take a few wire brushes (like a pipe cleaner shape) and stick it in a drill. Then spin it to remove corrosion. The fit should be tight but not too tight and I would hate to break the $46 part. The brush that comes with the quadratec kit, works great, but I could have used 2 more.
Also, don't buy the bushings on ebay. They are 3D printed designs and are absolute crap. They crack and break immediately.
Then, please, go really really slow to put the new bushing. Take a few wire brushes (like a pipe cleaner shape) and stick it in a drill. Then spin it to remove corrosion. The fit should be tight but not too tight and I would hate to break the $46 part. The brush that comes with the quadratec kit, works great, but I could have used 2 more.
Also, don't buy the bushings on ebay. They are 3D printed designs and are absolute crap. They crack and break immediately.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Good info. I wondered what the differences were in the two styles, other that the length of them.
Delrin. Shocking how easily the doors fly open now.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Edgar Marton
TJ Enthusiast
Very good tip. I also have a 99 Sahara. Which replacement kit should I buy? Is there perhaps an Amazon link?
YES to the thick cardboard around the work area. It's really easy to slip with all the tapping and banging and now I've got a few paint dings to repair 
. I had ONE out of 4 that was a huge problem and if I had to do it again I'd do it over a few days alternating chipping away and letting the PB Blaster soak in. Harbor Freight sells tiny chisels and picks that really helped.
. I had ONE out of 4 that was a huge problem and if I had to do it again I'd do it over a few days alternating chipping away and letting the PB Blaster soak in. Harbor Freight sells tiny chisels and picks that really helped.Similar threads
