4.0 Cooling Issues

Amazing that there are millions of buildings in this world that use straight water (with inhibitors)
I use straight water (with inhibitors) in my Jeep.

Straight water is actually a better coolant for heat transfer then glycol is

If the radiator cap is a proper 18lb and working water will not cause any issues.

I did not suggest or advise that using water was proper,

You kinda did.
 
I use straight water (with inhibitors) in my Jeep

You kinda did.

Well, water is a more efficient coolant then glycol and it will not boil or create vapor pressure in a closed loop system which is all correct, beyond that nowhere did I state to run water vs glycol so don't worry about it. Again it was just a clarification of glycol properties.

Typically I run straight distilled water for several days after any major repairs to the cooling system (temps permitting) to prove system is tight and for the purposes of flushing.
 
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Definitely would like to see the pump impeller. And actually quite amazed people think that straight H20 is better than with coolant. I work on engines 80 years old and newer. It is easy to tell who thinks just H20 is all they need. Even back in the thermosiphon days they added alchohol to the cooling system.
 
Definitely would like to see the pump impeller. And actually quite amazed people think that straight H20 is better than with coolant. I work on engines 80 years old and newer. It is easy to tell who thinks just H20 is all they need. Even back in the thermosiphon days they added alchohol to the cooling system.
Knowing that water cools better does not equal thinking it is better for long term use.
 
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OK,

So I pulled the water pump, removed the pulleys and the belt of course. Here are the pics.

Obviously drained the radiator first...
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The water pump looks pretty good to me. I don't think there is anything wrong with it. But the radiator...

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Looks like the leak is larger than I thought and this could be my problem (blockage?). Both will be replaced of course.
Pulleys will be replaced too. one of them is a bit squeaky and the second one is probably not too far behind.

What do you think?
Cheers
 
Pump impeller looks good. I've seen pics of some that were worn down to nothing but a flat star shaped disc.
 
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Pump impeller looks good. I've seen pics of some that were worn down to nothing but a flat star shaped disc.
Wow... I mean I was prepared to see some rust, maybe the tips eaten out a little or the impeller detached from the shaft, but a star shaped disk?? LOL. That probably took years to get to that condition. Anyone knows how to tell if this a mopar pump or not? I cannot find any Chrysler stamp on it, just TU03 C-7136.
 
Removed the rube from the water pump and reconditioned it, along with the blades and the water pump pulley. the other two pulleys will be replaced.
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It took some heat to get the tube off...

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Take a look at this picture. This is the original 2o year old, Mopar thermostat that I replaced. It opened up right around 90 degrees (195 in F). Is it supposed to retract that little? I thought they opened up bigger.

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Just trying to figure out if this thermostat is still good :)
 
If they are full open when the water boils I always call them good. I've had a bad one purchased new, Jeep ran at 165, threw a code, tested it and it cracked at 165. I don't check new ones, probably wont in the future but you do get a dud now and then.
 
I never bothered salvaging the tubes, even though it is usually doable. They are cheap as well. Reassembly with new parts is mechanical Viagra. I used a brand and style water pump many here do not like. So far two years old and it works absolutely fine.
 
The pump arrived today, so I installed it, along with the new pulleys, belt and hoses. The rad will arrive tomorrow and I can drive my Guardian again :) Have you guys noticed the steel spring inside the lower hose? I am guessing it is so the hose doesn't collapse and keeps its shape, but why not in the upper as well?

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The pump arrived today, so I installed it, along with the new pulleys, belt and hoses. The rad will arrive tomorrow and I can drive my Guardian again :) Have you guys noticed the steel spring inside the lower hose? I am guessing it is so the hose doesn't collapse and keeps its shape, but why not in the upper as well?

View attachment 147107

Yes, the spring is there to help keep the hose from collapsing. The pump sucks coolant from the lower hose so I guess it could collapse the hose with that sucking action. The coolant gets pushed through the upper hose.
 
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