Anyone Tried This TJ REPSUB Replacement Subwoofer?

[CO719]

I am replacing my stereo and all speakers in my 2005 Wrangler Unlimited. I have already installed a Kenwood KDC-X301 stereo and I have ordered 4 Kicker 40CS54 5-1/4" speakers to replace the 2 corner dash and 2 roll bar speakers. I am also looking to replace the blown factory center console subwoofer and after reading all posts on this topic it seems like it's going to be a pain. I do not want to install a new amplifier and would like the replacement sub to run off of the stock amp which definitely limits my options. I found the following replacement subwoofer at Quadratec which claims to be the only true OEM replacement on the market TJ REPSUB Replacement Center Console Subwoofer

Has anyone tried one of these? It is overpriced but if it is my best option to replace the sub without needing a new amp or having to customize the sub enclosure I may just order. I am also considering ordering some thing like this Polk Audio DB652 and just running it off of the stock amp. I know it won't sound as good as it would with a more powerful amp but I don't need it to.

What do you guys think? Should I try to expensive Quadratec "RESUB" or run a higher quality sub on the stock amp? If the later, anyone got any suggestions on the best sub to run off the stock amp?

 

[Chris]

While I haven't used it personally, many have with success. I wouldn't hesistete to buy it, despite how much I loathe Quadratec.

I would probably just replace the stock sub, but I'm a minimalist and don't need any fancy sound system or anything.

 

[VirtualRussel]

Because I don't understand enough about audio systems to know the real effect of using the stock subwoofer amp with a replacement sub having different specs (voice coils, resistance, etc) I went ahead and purchased the same sub for my LJ. After two years it's still performing very well . . . as well as you can expect out of any non-heavily modified TJ audio system.

 

[lovemachine]

Wouldn't the Polk be the better one?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB652/Polk-Audio-DB652.html?tp=105&avf=Y

I just assumed you just plugged it in, and you're done.

 

[fourpointzero]

Forget the stock sub. Pull the guts from the center console and add this inside:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8...a&awnw=g&awcr=48387319825&awdv=m&awug=1022300

BEST sound upgrade I've done. Can't stress it enough. Sounds so damn good. Was upset W myself I didn't do it sooner. Waited a year to buy. Literally one of my top 'upgrades'.


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[VirtualRussel]

@lovemachine That one will drop in but, while I know via comments from @Jerry Bransford and others that you should look for speakers with higher sensitivity (If I'm remember that correctly), I don't know the real effects of using a 4-Ohm speaker with an amp that was designed for a 2-Ohm speaker.

 

[lovemachine]

@lovemachine That one will drop in but, while I know via comments from @Jerry Bransford and others that you should look for speakers with higher sensitivity (If I'm remember that correctly), I don't know the real effects of using a 4-Ohm speaker with an amp that was designed for a 2-Ohm speaker.

I thought that Polk speaker was recommended for the center console?

 

[egclassic]

Forget the stock sub. Pull the guts from the center console and add this inside:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8...a&awnw=g&awcr=48387319825&awdv=m&awug=1022300

BEST sound upgrade I've done. Can't stress it enough. Sounds so damn good. Was upset W myself I didn't do it sooner. Waited a year to buy. Literally one of my top 'upgrades'.


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Do you have any pictures of your install? I am interested in putting one of these in, although I was looking at a different sub but same concept.

 

[egclassic]

@lovemachine That one will drop in but, while I know via comments from @Jerry Bransford and others that you should look for speakers with higher sensitivity (If I'm remember that correctly), I don't know the real effects of using a 4-Ohm speaker with an amp that was designed for a 2-Ohm speaker.

Although sensitivity rating is very important when selecting speakers, not sure how much that matters for a jeep which has very poor acoustics anyway. Now for home audio it's a completely different story.

 

[Mike_H]

So, for a sub, sensitivity is not quite as important as it is for your other speakers. The sensitivity just refers to how well the speaker is going to use the available power. Its kind of a measure of efficiency. Subs, because they are low frequency, non-directional, and run off an amplifier, need less sensitivity rating. Now, more efficiency is always better, but you can get that with ohm load....The stock speaker is like 1 or 2 ohm? So, its a low resistance design, which allows a smaller amp for the same power output. If you don't want to change anything else, you need to look for that ohm rating. A Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm speaker, wired properly can give you a 2 ohm load. Or a DVC 2 Ohm Speaker can get down to 1 Ohm.

If you just want the thing to work, buy the replacement at quadratec and be done with it. If you want it to be better, then that opens up a whole other can of worms.

 

[egclassic]

I am replacing my stereo and all speakers in my 2005 Wrangler Unlimited. I have already installed a Kenwood KDC-X301 stereo and I have ordered 4 Kicker 40CS54 5-1/4" speakers to replace the 2 corner dash and 2 roll bar speakers. I am also looking to replace the blown factory center console subwoofer and after reading all posts on this topic it seems like it's going to be a pain. I do not want to install a new amplifier and would like the replacement sub to run off of the stock amp which definitely limits my options. I found the following replacement subwoofer at Quadratec which claims to be the only true OEM replacement on the market TJ REPSUB Replacement Center Console Subwoofer

Has anyone tried one of these? It is overpriced but if it is my best option to replace the sub without needing a new amp or having to customize the sub enclosure I may just order. I am also considering ordering some thing like this Polk Audio DB652 and just running it off of the stock amp. I know it won't sound as good as it would with a more powerful amp but I don't need it to.

What do you guys think? Should I try to expensive Quadratec "RESUB" or run a higher quality sub on the stock amp? If the later, anyone got any suggestions on the best sub to run off the stock amp?

I have always had good luck with Kicker speakers. I have them in my Toyota and now in my jeep. I was at Best Buy yesterday and they have Kicker CS 6-1/2" speakers for $39.99 on sale! If I didn't already have them, I would have jumped on them. They also had a good deal on a Kicker 10" sub.

 

[fourpointzero]

Do you have any pictures of your install? I am interested in putting one of these in, although I was looking at a different sub but same concept.

Unfortunately I don't. It literally fit right inside the center of the console. The only thing I did was pull the original out. I paid a shop to do the wiring for the new one. Wires and connectors came w the sub, free, courtesy of Crutchfield. Not sure if they're still offering that as a bonus anymore. I didn't read the current description. But it was 60 dollars to have the work done. And they knew how to set the levels on the equipment.

If you have a reputable shop in your area, go for it. I preferred to pay someone to get it done right than to fidget w wiring and the like for hours.


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[Head Lice]

Will be purchasing the Quadratec #14133.1001 speaker also.
The OEM amp may not be the biggest/best ..... but, it works reasonably well for my old ears. No butchering the wiring harness for an aftermarket amp/sub.
The one thing that I've found over the years is that the Chryco OEM Radio/CD/Cassette heads are so easy to use .... large selector buttons, easy to adjust clock, etc., etc. ....... I think they are a great underrated head unit. I chucked the JVC unit the PO had installed, along with the stacked amps ..... Happy now with the easy-to-use OEM RBK Radio and Optional 7 Speaker system.

 

[fourpointzero]

Well, my OEM radio had a volume issue. So I had no choice but to go aftermarket. Not a single regret here, though. The OE had no aux or usb port. And personally, my old ears love new music. Spotify is a game changer, I needed the ability to marry the head unit w my smartphone.


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[VirtualRussel]

The stock speaker is like 1 or 2 ohm? So, its a low resistance design, which allows a smaller amp for the same power output. If you don't want to change anything else, you need to look for that ohm rating. A Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm speaker, wired properly can give you a 2 ohm load. Or a DVC 2 Ohm Speaker can get down to 1 Ohm.

So what are the implications or running a mismatch in the amp vs the subwoofer? Say, for example, a 2 Ohm Amp with a 4 OHM SVC Subwoofer?

How would you wire up a DVC 4 Ohm sub to the TJ/LJ amp? If I was reading accurate information it looks like you could wire up the coils in parallel and match the 2 Ohms but I'm not certain. If so, is it as simple as splicing off the positive and negative right from the amp?

 

[Mike_H]

Running a 2 ohm amp with a 4 ohm sub shouldn't be too bad. You are just giving up a little extra power. What you don't want to do is run a 2ohm Sub with a 4 ohm amp...That can cause some stability issues...The amp will start to clip (run out of output) and that is when you blow speakers.

Yes, wiring the DVC 4 ohm sub in parallel with net you a 2 ohm load...It it were wired in series, it would be 8 ohms. www.the12volt.com is a GREAT website resource for sound systems...also other stuff, but I stick to the car stereo stuff.

Little known fact...speakers are generally blown because they don't have ENOUGH power behind them vs having too much.

 

[CO719]

So, for a sub, sensitivity is not quite as important as it is for your other speakers. The sensitivity just refers to how well the speaker is going to use the available power. Its kind of a measure of efficiency. Subs, because they are low frequency, non-directional, and run off an amplifier, need less sensitivity rating. Now, more efficiency is always better, but you can get that with ohm load....The stock speaker is like 1 or 2 ohm? So, its a low resistance design, which allows a smaller amp for the same power output. If you don't want to change anything else, you need to look for that ohm rating. A Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm speaker, wired properly can give you a 2 ohm load. Or a DVC 2 Ohm Speaker can get down to 1 Ohm.

If you just want the thing to work, buy the replacement at quadratec and be done with it. If you want it to be better, then that opens up a whole other can of worms.

Yeah I think I am just going to go the simple route with the Quadtratec replacement sub. It makes me cringe to think of the quality speaker I could buy for the same $90 but the simplicity of install will be worth it.

Because I don't understand enough about audio systems to know the real effect of using the stock subwoofer amp with a replacement sub having different specs (voice coils, resistance, etc) I went ahead and purchased the same sub for my LJ. After two years it's still performing very well . . . as well as you can expect out of any non-heavily modified TJ audio system.

Thanks for letting me know, I was worried by the fact that there were no product reviews for the Quadratec "Resub".

 

[CO719]

Unfortunately I don't. It literally fit right inside the center of the console. The only thing I did was pull the original out. I paid a shop to do the wiring for the new one. Wires and connectors came w the sub, free, courtesy of Crutchfield. Not sure if they're still offering that as a bonus anymore. I didn't read the current description. But it was 60 dollars to have the work done. And they knew how to set the levels on the equipment.

If you have a reputable shop in your area, go for it. I preferred to pay someone to get it done right than to fidget w wiring and the like for hours.


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Aren't all of the wires needed already run to the stock amp? Or did you have to run a complete new set of wires from the battery? Also, did you have to mod the center console at all to fit this thing or did it fit right into the console after removing the factory subwoofer box?

 

[fourpointzero]

Aren't all of the wires needed already run to the stock amp? Or did you have to run a complete new set of wires from the battery? Also, did you have to mod the center console at all to fit this thing or did it fit right into the console after removing the factory subwoofer box?

Well, as I mentioned in my og reply, I paid $60 bucks to have a shop run the wires. Its truly not as difficult as everyone here is making out to be.

There is in fact an OE wire harness that runs along the carpet (over the trans tunnel) and some of those wires eventually will be in contact w the aftermarket sub unit. But the stock power wire isn't thick enough (regulatory / safe, whatever its called) to power the Crutchfield sub. So thats why they provide proper wiring. The power is run from the batt to the sub, w a fuse in between (again, im not electrical authority) but this is why I preferred to have a shop do the wiring. Below is the raw basics:

1- remove console (you)
2- removed old sub from console (there's some clips and screws that you'll need to remove to take out the old unit)
3- install wire kit (I had the shop do all of that)
4- stand unit on its side
5- place console over the top
6- screw the console back in place (down onto the body)
7- enjoy excellent sound

At one time, (after enjoying for a year) I removed the center console to thoroughly vacuum and actually see the work this shop did, (they did a clean install) and it was easy to removal: unscrew, disconnect wires from the unit. I vacuumed everything and reversed the process w no issues. To expand- this is how I had the shop do the work: I left the center console gutted and removed (sitting in the Jeep) when I arrived at the shop for the install, I simply handed the tech the Crutchfield sub and wire kit and told them I wanted the sub to live inside the center console. And that's what they did.

Unless for some reason your console is different than mine, it will fit nice and snug. I have a 2001 TJ, w the sub console that has cup holders for rear passengers. Believe its a 'long console'.

Hope the above is clear. Chime in if you need more clarification.

Cheers [emoji482]




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[Head Lice]

Be aware that the earlier amp/sub units have a smaller wiring harness .... a 6 pin plug/wire set-up, I believe ??
The later sub/amp units are a 12 pin plug/wire set-up.