Another quarantine chore (battery cables)

Flivver250

TJ Addict
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I finally got around to this chore I have procrastinated on. I made new battery cables for the TJ today. All new ground and positive cables and military terminals.

The originals worked without issue, but they were old and beat on. I used all new 99.9% oxygen free pure copper cables. Did a nice clean job crimping the ends and using proper shrink tubing. I didn't bother with any glam shots of the job.

I only have one cable to left to replace. The feed from the battery to the amps in the passenger compartment is poor quality wire. Heavy duty enough gauge, but appears to be copper clad aluminum or some other trash that isn't worth ball sweat. Those corrode and get powdery and eventually stop conducting. It also may be a source of engine noise.

I cleaned up the amp connection best I could for the short term. I just ordered new cable, three way splitter for feeds to the three amps and some appropriate fuses suitable for the task. That means another 3 week wait before I can rip into the stereo wiring.

I could have bought some nice cables made to order, but what is the fun in that? Not a cheap task to do it right, but money in the Jeep is better than money in the bank.

Ready made custom cables would be certainly less expensive if you were paying shop labor to make and install cables. For those who don't like to crimp, perhaps this supplier is as good as they look. I have not used this supplier for cables, but I like their website. Maybe others have used them and can provide feedback.

https://www.custombatterycables.com/jeep-wrangler/
 
I used the cables from custombatterycables. They're expensive considering what they are. I'd go buy a 2 gauge wire locally, then buy a quality crimper and crimp your own ends. Buy a set of "military" terminals. You'd be in it cheaper than the cheapest set of cables from custombatterycables.
 
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Reactions: Irun
Custombatterycables is what I used for my LJ build. Don't let them talk you into larger cables unless you need them.
 
"military terminals"

Don't tell Blaine that. I remember when I got fooled into thinking that was an actual thing (or that it made any sort of difference). It's buried in my build thread somewhere. ;)

Either way, sounds like a job well done.
"Military Style" terminals are very good and I use them all the time. You're probably thinking of something else you deserved shit for.
 
Like yours, mine are functioning fine, but my TJ is a year older than my Silverado, which needed a battery cable replaced late last year. It also looked just fine, but every now and then I would go to the truck and have no power until I popped the hood and shook the cable around until it made contact.

I bought a set from Rockauto made by Standard Motor Products. They were 6 gauge and the terminals weren't impressive. I sent them back. Don't know when I'll tackle this. The fact that at least one of the cables is wrapped with some other part of the harness means I'll have to be prepared to replace the plastic split loom when it crumbles apart in my hand.
 
I am going to have to find a good source for a high quality battery here. I can get batteries, but you have no idea of how old they are or their remaining lifespan. They give them a one year warranty only. My battery is newly purchased, but one year from now I expect it to dead. BTW, the new cables seem to have made the starter jump to life better. The starter is also new and worked quite well, but now it seems to throw itself into the task with renewed enthusiasm. Maybe I just want to believe that is the case. The cable to the starter is now a heavier gauge.
 
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I put military in " " because I don't know what makes them military. Reminds me of the "milspec" description bartract uses on their seat covers :unsure:

I was totally confusing "military spec" with "military grade":

IMG_1689.webp



Can I get my military grade lockers with a side of military spec terminals?

:LOL:
 
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Reactions: tworley
What did you do about the fusable link(?) that’s supposed to be part of the cable going to the alternator?
I did not have a fusable link in the old alternator cable. I think it was the original cable. There is that metal terminal on the relay box side that the alternator cable was attached to. The one that looks like it was designed by a blacksmith or tin knocker, not an electrical engineer. The one mounted to the relay box with two 10mm nuts.

I cleaned that up, inspected the 6"cable, re-insulated it with pretty shrink tubing and added a shiny new terminal end to mount to military battery clamp. I ran the new cable from the alternator to the relay box directly. I suppose I could have also mounted it to the battery clamp as they are all interlinked, but it was a cleaner job this way.

My old cables had not failed, but they were ugly and while still serviceable, the battery clamps were whaled on. They were surely a point of future failure that I trust I have thwarted.

Murphy's law has always buggered me solidly so I actively look for any area of weakness or suspicion. As the wrenching is the hobby as much as the wheeling, I don't give a damn when I replace functioning components. I am a fettler at heart.

Fettler is a cool word known to some mechanics and some old British railway workers. I have been waiting for a valid excuse to use that word.
 
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I went with custombatterycables - no regrets. I could have saved a little cash doing it all myself, however instead I didn’t have to buy, measure, cut, crimp, or add in the fuse link.

For me, messing with the main electrical lines wasn’t worth it since I didn’t know enough at the time.
 
Fettler is a cool word known to some mechanics and some old British railway workers. I have been waiting for a valid excuse to use that word.

I'd never heard that word. It sounds like it could be used as a curse word in the UK.