Apparently there is some increased flexibility provided by the johnny joint (or similar). I cannot attest for the facts of that statement, just what I'm reading.
Control Arm Questions
- Thread starter Midtenn
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Apparently there is some increased flexibility provided by the johnny joint (or similar). I cannot attest for the facts of that statement, just what I'm reading.
Good to know, thank you. I have no problem upgrading a part if the replacement is better so this might be a good option. Who knows, I might hit a difficult trail when heading off to a trailhead for backpacking and might need to consider a lift someday!
If I started with a stock jeep, I wouldn't life beyond 2". Everything is $$ and it takes a whole lot of parts to get it to work right.
with zero desire to lift or modify, I don't think it would offer much benefit. Replacement stock arms with new bushings in them are cheap (2 years ago you could get a pair of lower arms for $60). I'm not sure you could take advantage of the additional flexibility of Johnny Joints with shocks designed for factory ride height.
Crown makes replacement control arms that are like factory control arms. They would be great for your application.
The factory arms do a pretty good job believe it or not. Just get some replacements and call it a day.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...o3hVsXWY8KjLY6sGJA2byUqPt0spIoi0aAhnEEALw_wcB
It's there any particular reason you want adjustable arms? Is there a problem you're trying to fix? The factory arms are actually pretty good at what they do, and for the type of driving and wheeling it sounds like you're interested in, they will be more than ok.
You can pick up a full set from crown for around 200 bucks... That's all 8 arms.
Just another point of view...
You can pick up a full set from crown for around 200 bucks... That's all 8 arms.
Just another point of view...
For me, I have a 3.5" lift and my current arms are bad. My re-gear installer suggested I replace them with adjustable.
I don't believe it's necessary to get adjustable in that case. Adjustable control arms are used to set pinion angle, adjust the axle to bump stop, things like that. If you don't have those problems, the adjustability is additional complexity you don't need.
@JMT is running about the same amount of lift and he has factory arms... His Jeep flexes out really well... Perhaps he can chime in and show off some pictures...
My Jeep flexes really great with the stock CA's. The C channel design is good for flexing. To duplicate that with aftermarket you need CA's that have a really good joint. JJ is #1 and the Duroflex by MC is #2. There may be another option that is decent, but most CA's won't help you flex more but less and can put in danger the CA mounts.
I'm at 3" SL.
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Yeah, and if you keep beating your C Channel CA's up like I was, then get something beefier, but they are very expensive, so if not needed, I wouldn't make a change. The replacement stock ones are $25 per arm on amazon. I've replaced 1 in the last 3 years, though they all look a little chewed.
That is what this forum is for. The factory arms are actually VERY cleverly designed and work very well, until they don't. The only reason I have adjustable arms now is because my future mods require it, not because my factory arms were limiting performance. I could replace the factory arms almost 5x for what it would cost to replace my adjustable control arms...
I could replace all 4 lowers for the price of one regular control arm. And then not have to hassel and fret over this adjustable length issue...at least for the front. The rear, I may continue to go adjustable since I may need to SYE in the future. But the front can just go normal and be good.
That's where I am. I have the rear double adjustables ready to go, the front will remain stock for now.
Most would recommend an adjustable arangement if you are running more than a 2" lift. For 0 lift I would certainly keep with just a good stock replacement set. For 3" I would go aftermarket arms to help dial in all the drive angles. To be honest, I went with upgraded Core Level 2 arms for my 2" lift to be able to get the best steering return I can get. Everyone has their own idea of what 'mild' offroad is. I'll bet the boys on the west coast think mild is what us northeast boys think is past midlevel.
I'd pay attention to the advice given above regarding stock arms, for your description they're more than adequate and the cheapest you'll find. I've always been on stock arms with the exception of rear uppers for pinion adjustments and they've worked great. I bent the crap out of one of my brand new lowers last summer, $25 & a couple clicks of the mouse later & a new one was sitting in my driveway, 10 minutes underneath & it was in. I came down so hard on a rock to do that I'm really not sure what would've happened had I had a more rigid high-end arm in there, maybe it would've survived or maybe it would've bent, or worse taken the CA mount off, but instead the relatively thin metal design of the stock arm took all the abuse so it was a cheap/easy fix
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on OEM replacement lowers. I'll eventually want to go adjustable but them being bad as they are really effect the drive. I can get these in and move on to the bigger fish of getting rid of this TC drop. That will require a upper rear adjustable and I'm comfortable with that.
It looks weird but run the arms flipped with the channel up. I ran mine that way for years and they took a lot more abuse that way. You just have to clean the mud out of them more.Yeah, and if you keep beating your C Channel CA's up like I was, then get something beefier, but they are very expensive, so if not needed, I wouldn't make a change. The replacement stock ones are $25 per arm on amazon. I've replaced 1 in the last 3 years, though they all look a little chewed.
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