Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
Like watching Pulp Fiction for the first time at this point. I'm not quite sure what I'm watching but it's all quality scenes and I like it. 
Kinda kidding. I see the goal.
Kinda kidding. I see the goal.
OP
It's a slippery slope brah, but I see what you want to accomplish.
mrblaine's shot went over my head. i'm not sure how to read that 1.
i saw mention of the PITA it was to relocate the fender equipment...........that's pretty much gonna happen making room for CO hoops or HL fenders. the GR HL inners have plenty of room, everything is mounted solid.
unless CO's are on the table it comes down to work on the body or the axle.
the body work just nets some wheel room.
the axle work nets the needed wheel room, + a little wheelbase, a little bit of that improved front entry angle, a little tighter travel arc............
the only issue is reusing that old piece. even if you get it off whole it's gonna have 1/2 of the old tube notch hanging off the back side .......that'd need filled/fixed.
take a peek at that Artec Ultimate bracket (less without the LCA brkt). looks centered and the shock tabs are not huge. or just a pad and mount the shocks to the top of the LCA brackets.
i got brackets i didn't use i'll see whats here. and i have buckets full of tabs and laser burnouts. so hit me up b4 you spend $ on little stuff.
i saw mention of the PITA it was to relocate the fender equipment...........that's pretty much gonna happen making room for CO hoops or HL fenders. the GR HL inners have plenty of room, everything is mounted solid.
unless CO's are on the table it comes down to work on the body or the axle.
the body work just nets some wheel room.
the axle work nets the needed wheel room, + a little wheelbase, a little bit of that improved front entry angle, a little tighter travel arc............
the only issue is reusing that old piece. even if you get it off whole it's gonna have 1/2 of the old tube notch hanging off the back side .......that'd need filled/fixed.
take a peek at that Artec Ultimate bracket (less without the LCA brkt). looks centered and the shock tabs are not huge. or just a pad and mount the shocks to the top of the LCA brackets.
i got brackets i didn't use i'll see whats here. and i have buckets full of tabs and laser burnouts. so hit me up b4 you spend $ on little stuff.
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OP
it can be poison.
i'm already struggling with the rear end. i ended up with whats up front to help a friend. i do not have to incur that cost again to accomplish what i want..........i could run the frame rails straight back off the arches and keep coils on the ass. dump the MC 3.5's for some Currie 4's.
that's why i left so long a drop on that back 1/2 kit. i got enough tube to do it either way. in and back if i wanna spend for CO's or struts, or straight back and keep it sprung. $$$
i'm already struggling with the rear end. i ended up with whats up front to help a friend. i do not have to incur that cost again to accomplish what i want..........i could run the frame rails straight back off the arches and keep coils on the ass. dump the MC 3.5's for some Currie 4's.
that's why i left so long a drop on that back 1/2 kit. i got enough tube to do it either way. in and back if i wanna spend for CO's or struts, or straight back and keep it sprung. $$$
Artec is to brackets what the National Enquirer is to news.
There seems to be a lot of push for @jjvw to switch over to highlines. @jjvw how much up travel do you have now and would a standard GR tube fender be enough? I know the rear wheel well is what you're contacting now but do you have enough up travel to touch the hood line or surpass it currently? I recall a photo @mrblaine posted of a 37 stuffed in a GR highline. Doesn't a highline provide 3" more? If a 35 vs 37 are roughly 2" in difference would that mean you could get 1" above the hood line? Guess the easier question is with a 35" tire would you even be able to contact the fender at full bump or would there be a 2" opening above the tire and fender.
But Nate has a video (don’t have knowledge to review his videos just couldn’t resist)
So to make sure I don’t fall victim to abduction and probing where should I be looking. Barnes? Only Currie or GenRight?
i got a national inquirer raised adjustable TB mount, might/could be altered to work (a bend a couple cuts it's not raised anymore). also have an unknown rear bracket the could be cut up and used 2 directions if it might work.
@mrblaine, how important is the clocking groove to the front springs?
i got something that might work for him. if needed he'd just had to find the clocking ramp.
a pair of formed channels ready to be arched wherever you like. same width and depth as OE just not as long. 2 thick tapped pads and some UHMW centers.
this is what i was gonna do b4 all this strut crap came about. free to him if it helps.
@mrblaine, how important is the clocking groove to the front springs?
i got something that might work for him. if needed he'd just had to find the clocking ramp.
a pair of formed channels ready to be arched wherever you like. same width and depth as OE just not as long. 2 thick tapped pads and some UHMW centers.
this is what i was gonna do b4 all this strut crap came about. free to him if it helps.
OP
With the existing fenders, I have about 5.5" up. That is an 11" shock split in half. That's the plan for Foxes. The only thing highlines would solve for me is the rear wall interference.
When you do buy the Foxes the remote res Factory series are good however if you're looking to get the most out of them I highly recommend the Factory series with DSCs. I think they're only available with a threaded body so you might want to weigh the pros and cons of coilovers now. I've been playing with mine more and they're very very good once you dial them in. Like bombing rutted and washboard gravel back roads at 40mph, jumping a curb and calling it a Sunday drive level of good. On the street they're slightly better and offroad they're significantly better.
OP
11s are the reasonable limit for the front. I know some do 12s, but they aren't telling you about the interference issues past the point where I'm at.
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OP
DSCs are very tempting. COs feel like another can of worms. I would want both ends to match and I don't want to redo the rear.
Don’t you have somewhere close to 29” at droop in the front before brake lines max out? Would a 12” shock use the max amount of travel there? Or is the 11” just easier to package?
OP
Packaging with the stock axles. With 11s, the inner sidewall is digging into the upper spring seat at full stuff/lock. COs reduce that interference and allow for a bit more movement.