Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
OP
Why can't this happen? The factory mount is just a C-channel. Cut the top off and slide it back to center the springs on the tube.
The track bar and stabilizer brackets can stay where they are. Only the spring seat and shock mount move back. Fill in the gaps. Access on mine around the mid arm truss doesn't look too bad.
The track bar and stabilizer brackets can stay where they are. Only the spring seat and shock mount move back. Fill in the gaps. Access on mine around the mid arm truss doesn't look too bad.
OP
2nd and 3rd ended up in the scrap bin (I could not create a clocking ramp i was happy with).........then struts changed my game b4 i used that stuff i showed + a clocking ring.
Artec makes a metal clocking ring 99$. several MFG's make it in rubber/poly but have to wade through sizing them.
the JK is slightly different that's why it not a perfect match, i wasn't making parts for a TJ axle.......... just an axle. (and now i'm embarrassed i even showed um).
i was gonna use some small axle shock brackets/tabs hung above the LCA and off the the side some, this would allow some control over the travel split of my shocks. and not get into/limit my CA or be right up tight on the spring.
the channel was long enough to come up to the TB bracket and support it, and in that position would leave the shock an open window to reach past. or i could lop it all off and go dead middle and rebuild what i needed.
i used UHMW for the bump block, it's light and dense. never gonna rot or deteriorate, flat to hold additional bump. borrowed the idea from Dynatrac. a steel cup could be added easily.
not trying to deter you , try it and see if you like it. it just didn't work out for me.
but i do have the caps, your welcome to those as well if they'll help. but they are trimmed real shallow.
and this is why i posed the question is it a clocking thing or a ramp thing. i think it's a ramp the clocking just positions it.
Artec makes a metal clocking ring 99$. several MFG's make it in rubber/poly but have to wade through sizing them.
the JK is slightly different that's why it not a perfect match, i wasn't making parts for a TJ axle.......... just an axle. (and now i'm embarrassed i even showed um).
i was gonna use some small axle shock brackets/tabs hung above the LCA and off the the side some, this would allow some control over the travel split of my shocks. and not get into/limit my CA or be right up tight on the spring.
the channel was long enough to come up to the TB bracket and support it, and in that position would leave the shock an open window to reach past. or i could lop it all off and go dead middle and rebuild what i needed.
i used UHMW for the bump block, it's light and dense. never gonna rot or deteriorate, flat to hold additional bump. borrowed the idea from Dynatrac. a steel cup could be added easily.
not trying to deter you , try it and see if you like it. it just didn't work out for me.
but i do have the caps, your welcome to those as well if they'll help. but they are trimmed real shallow.
and this is why i posed the question is it a clocking thing or a ramp thing. i think it's a ramp the clocking just positions it.
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Have you considered trimming 1.25” off the top of the trackbar mount since you are relocating it?
The pitman arm could be fine tuned on a press if raising the front frame section didn’t restore the geometry perfectly.
You are aware that mashing a stock pitman more flatterer also makes it longerer?
You are aware that raising the track bar mount 1.25” and raising the frame 1.25” in the same plane changes nothing?
@jjvw This being your build thread and not a panel for Blaine to respond to the my questions for you, I’ll stop now.
OP
OP
OP
That idea has fallen by the wayside and becomes almost moot if I can pull off this small stretch.
OP
I'll throw out a few thoughts and observations from this weekend.
The raised low profile rear bumper is great. I only landed on it once, which was not the case on this trail in years past.
I knocked the MCEs off of their breakaway mounts a couple times. It's nice not having to worry about damage. This is a neat feature that doesn't get mentioned enough if flares are wanted on the build.
Overall the move towards making the Jeep light and low profile is a success.
35s are noticably better than 33s. In addition to the increased height, the bridging ability from the larger diameter tire is nice. I didn't feel like the Jeep was falling as deeply into gaps and holes. Also, I don't recall catching the mid arm frame bracket like I used to. 35s are going to be nice.
Specifically regarding the Patagonias, i initially aired them down to 6psi and didn't like it. They felt very squishy, unstable and slippery. After bumping them up to 9-10 psi, they felt dramatically better.
I still feel like their traction is about as good as my old Cooper's, which is a little disappointing for an MT, if that is what these really are. I will be grooving and siping these soon.
The BMB pads still do a good job of stopping the larger tire. I probably ought to go through the break in process again. But I suspect I will be moving up to the Vanco kit sometime in the future.
I'll discuss gearing for the larger tire separately.
I already mentioned the loss of full stuff/full lock from the larger tires. I want this back, hence all this discussion of moving the axle further forward.
The raised low profile rear bumper is great. I only landed on it once, which was not the case on this trail in years past.
I knocked the MCEs off of their breakaway mounts a couple times. It's nice not having to worry about damage. This is a neat feature that doesn't get mentioned enough if flares are wanted on the build.
Overall the move towards making the Jeep light and low profile is a success.
35s are noticably better than 33s. In addition to the increased height, the bridging ability from the larger diameter tire is nice. I didn't feel like the Jeep was falling as deeply into gaps and holes. Also, I don't recall catching the mid arm frame bracket like I used to. 35s are going to be nice.
Specifically regarding the Patagonias, i initially aired them down to 6psi and didn't like it. They felt very squishy, unstable and slippery. After bumping them up to 9-10 psi, they felt dramatically better.
I still feel like their traction is about as good as my old Cooper's, which is a little disappointing for an MT, if that is what these really are. I will be grooving and siping these soon.
The BMB pads still do a good job of stopping the larger tire. I probably ought to go through the break in process again. But I suspect I will be moving up to the Vanco kit sometime in the future.
I'll discuss gearing for the larger tire separately.
I already mentioned the loss of full stuff/full lock from the larger tires. I want this back, hence all this discussion of moving the axle further forward.
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Here is what I was talking about from TNT Custom. The new spring pad allows you to set the spring bucket where you want them.
https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_par...ack_bar_mount_jeep_xj_tj_lj_zj_mj_tnt_customs
https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_par...ack_bar_mount_jeep_xj_tj_lj_zj_mj_tnt_customs
Or something like this? Just slip if over the stock mounts? I'm just doing a SWAG here.
https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/coil-plate-mounts-with-retainers
https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/coil-plate-mounts-with-retainers
OP
I think I like the TNT, but I'm not sure why I can't just move the stock mount backwards the way I laid it out earlier.
I think you might be able to do that but should you have something on hand just in case you can't?
It's worth a shot right?
you can.
you got pics of your front end..........hows that CA angled up toward that shock mount now at full droop?
will it handle 2" more overhang?
that cutout for the LCA and the bolt for the side shock mount is not bad idea.