Time to replace sagging springs: what brand?

AMS417

"The Ayatollah of rock and rolla"
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2020
Messages
2,294
Location
Springfield MO
My 2005 Rubicon has a 15 year old Super Lift 4" on it. Previous owner swapped in some new adjustable arms, and suspension components but it looks like it has the original Super Lift springs. I am hitting the rear bump stops a lot just open trail driving, and hitting hard when flexing out over rocks and ledges. Thinking these springs are toast. Seem like ride height has dropped too looking at other Jeeps on 4" lifts. Thinking it may be time to replace the springs. Looking for a good balance of flex, and ride quality. I have heavy Body Armor bumpers, with a rear carrier, hard top, M8000 winch, etc. Not a light Jeep so need a spring on the stiffer side to compensate I would guess. I also carry tools and recovery equipment and various other items when we head out.Looking for recommendations. Some have said RE are good for weight, and cost. Also BDS makes a 4.5". What would you do? Also looking to drop in a new rear track bar, mine has worn bushings. Looking at a JKS with mount, since I plan to do a skid as well.
 
Currie is very well known for making the best 4" springs out there for our TJs.

I wouldn't run any other 4" spring personally, unless there's something I don't know of.
 
I have a buddy with Currie, he just got them used (with like 50 miles) for $150. The guy that took them off had a heavy jeep and switched to a stronger spring. Worried about that, my Jeep is fat. Being they are $450-$500 new, I am concerned they wont be as great for a heavy rig.
 
I'm not sure, most of these Savvy, GenRight, and other heavy builds are using Currie springs (if they haven't gone to coilovers already). I don't think you'd have an issue unless your rig is somehow heavier than all of ours.

I had a 35" spare on my last TJ, winch, bumpers, hard top, full doors, and you name it. The Currie springs didn't give me any issues or sag whatsoever. Not a single bit (y)

@toximus has my old TJ now, so I'm sure he can provide more recent feedback on the springs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AMS417
So how much have they lowered? You must have measured them to know they are too short now. Or could it be that the bumpstops are wrong? Or could you be bottoming out shocks that are the wrong size? How much uptravel have you lost? If the shocks are getting weak they could be the problem. Of all the parts of a coil suspension, springs are the least likely to fail with old age.
 
So how much have they lowered? You must have measured them to know they are too short now. Or could it be that the bumpstops are wrong? Or could you be bottoming out shocks that are the wrong size? How much uptravel have you lost? If the shocks are getting weak they could be the problem. Of all the parts of a coil suspension, springs are the least likely to fail with old age.

15 year old super lift springs. Looks like I’ve lost 1.25” front and 1.5” rear. I measured them loaded. Comparing to what I see online for loaded spring height.
 
15 year old super lift springs. Looks like I’ve lost 1.25” front and 1.5” rear. I measured them loaded. Comparing to what I see online for loaded spring height.
Did not mean to sound like a piece of 💩 there. Not my intention at all. Just meant to have checked other possibilites.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AMS417
Most all replacement springs will be of decent quality. The goal is to get the right spring rate for your uses. A softer spring will allow for more suspension movement. But could also provide less lift if you have a heavy rig.
A heavier spring can better support more weight and give a solid ride. But could also limit suspension movement and cause a harsh ride.
Establishing how much weight you plan to carry will help choose the best spring for you.
 
Did not mean to sound like a piece of 💩 there. Not my intention at all. Just meant to have checked other possibilites.

You’re good. Up travel is fine. Flexes good, looks like the bump stops are from the original kit and they are keeping the extended track bar bracket from hitting the tub but still allowing the tire to get all the way into the fender flare so it seems reasonable. When I really twist it up the tire makes slight contact with the tub. Shocks are Rancho, I’ll look at the part number on them and see what the travel is supposed to be. Still suspect the springs are weak due to age. Rear bottoms out even over rough bridges on the highway. Trying to figure out what to do about it. New springs seems to obvious solution.
 
How much up travel? What do the springs actually measure?
 
15.5 front 10.75 rear loaded. Have not measured up travel. It goes as far as it should though. Will contact tub slightly in full flex. I can measure it later. Out of town right now. Need spring rate info but can’t find much on several brands. These springs look like shit. Rusty and 15 years old. Certainly need replaced.
 
~3.5" front lift, ~2.75" rear lift.

Spring rates won't do you much good unless you also know the free lengths along with the sprung weights of your Jeep.
 
~3.5" front, ~2.75" rear.

Spring rates won't do you much good unless you also know the free lengths along with the sprung weights of your Jeep.

Yeah I get it, still would give a basis to compare various springs against each other.
 
After countless hours agonizing over the springs and other components, I ordered the Currie (Rock Jock) 4" mainly due to them being progressive, and made in the USA. I did also order a JKS Johnny Joint rear sway bar with angled bracket, and JKS front disconnects for the sway bar. Should be good to go for a while. Unless the popping in the front suspension continues. Suspect its a spring, but could be an arm bushing. I do plan to eventually do Johnny joint upper bushings in the front axle side. Maybe new arms too.

Thanks for the direction.
 
After countless hours agonizing over the springs and other components, I ordered the Currie (Rock Jock) 4" mainly due to them being progressive, and made in the USA.

Currie isn't progressive, but they are still a great choice.

I did also order a JKS Johnny Joint rear [track] bar with angled bracket, and JKS front disconnects for the sway bar. ...

JKS stuff doesn't use Johnny Joints, FYI.
 
Currie isn't progressive, but they are still a great choice.



JKS stuff doesn't use Johnny Joints, FYI.

I swear I ready that the Currie was a progressive, but I have read a lot. Either way, several here recommended them over the cheaper alternatives, so I thought I give it a go. My buddy just installed a set he got very slightly used, he seems to like them so far two trips in.

Same with the track bar, its the Johnny Joint "style" adjustable with the angle bracket I need to correct pinion angle. I see its not in fact a Johnny Joint like the Currie bar is.

Thanks for keep me straight.
 
You won't have to worry about the quality of any Currie product.
But if you are bottoming out while having a decent amount of uptravel the shocks are supposed to control the spring movement.
 
Currie is very well known for making the best 4" springs out there for our TJs.

I wouldn't run any other 4" spring personally, unless there's something I don't know of.
This is on my next order of things to do along with the shocks (Rancho 5000x), but how good are the Moog springs for a stock set-up? Keep in mind I never get off the pavement.
Thanks Chris,
Tray
 
I swear I ready that the Currie was a progressive, but I have read a lot. Either way, several here recommended them over the cheaper alternatives, so I thought I give it a go. My buddy just installed a set he got very slightly used, he seems to like them so far two trips in.

Same with the track bar, its the Johnny Joint "style" adjustable with the angle bracket I need to correct pinion angle. I see its not in fact a Johnny Joint like the Currie bar is.

Thanks for keep me straight.
They are indeed progressive wound. They are not progressive rate.