Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

@Wildman what did you mess up about the cut? I’ve looked at it again and am having trouble seeing what you all are.

Somehow when I made the cut on the passenger side I missed the scribe line towards the top of the frame. I was trying to be careful but with the sparks flying from the cutoff disc I got off the scribe line. As BRB said it isn't a huge deal. I'll just make the passenger side extension tube a 1/2" longer than the drivers side. But if I'd already cut the tubing I'd be fucked.

To make it square I had to take a 1/4" off both ends of the frame.
 
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Somehow when I made the cut on the passenger side I missed the scribe line towards the top of the frame. I was trying to be careful but with the sparks flying from the cutoff disc I got off the scribe line. As BRB said it isn't a huge deal. I'll just make the passenger side extension tube a 1/2" longer than the drivers side. But if I'd already cut the tubing I'd be fucked.

To make it square I had to take a 1/4" off both ends of the frame.
Good copy, looking for forward to the turn out killer 👍🏽
 
@mattcogdell earlier in the thread you'd said that you wanted to see me do this. It isn't like I'm doing something others haven't done before so why did you want me to do it?

Blaine has done this enough times he immediately caught my screwup.
 
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For future reference

O.k.was just wondering. Blaine has posted about doing this but you have to search the different threads to find it since he doesn't do build threads.
Is this something that you are thinking about doing in the future?
 
Somehow when I made the cut on the passenger side I missed the scribe line towards the top of the frame. I was trying to be careful but with the sparks flying from the cutoff disc I got off the scribe line. As BRB said it isn't a huge deal. I'll just make the passenger side extension tube a 1/2" longer than the drivers side. But if I'd already cut the tubing I'd be fucked.

To make it square I had to take a 1/4" off both ends of the frame.
O.k.was just wondering. Blaine has posted about doing this but you have to search the different threads to find it since he doesn't do build threads.
Is this something that you are thinking about doing in the future?
Far enough in the future I don’t discuss it. There’s a lot to do before that time comes.
 
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Far enough in the future I don’t discuss it. There’s a lot to do before that time comes.

Well know even as hard as it might look it really isn't. It took me a few days to work up the nerve to make these cuts. As you can see even if you make a mistake like I did it isn't the end of the world. My build had constraints that others might not have. Trying to keep my AiRock with these air bags is making this harder. Once I get done working on the rear I am going to look at the front more and decide if I want to tackle trying to move it forward.
If I decide I want to try that it means I'd have to get new control arms made for how ever much I tried to move it forward. If I was doing coilovers all this would be a LOT easier.
 
@Wildman what did you mess up about the cut? I’ve looked at it again and am having trouble seeing what you all are.
Very exaggerated example but the diagram shows what happens when you cut out of square and then butt each end of the existing cuts to the new frame piece that is cut square. Each out of square long point contacts first and pushes the frame apart by that distance. You can make a custom piece with the same angles to not grow the frame longer, but that is a royal PITA to do. Green is the new frame piece, blue is existing frame.
frame cut.PNG
 
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Blaine has done this enough times he immediately caught my screwup.
Has zero to do with how many frames I've cut. I'm a carpenter. I mark lines on stuff and cut on the line. Doesn't matter if it is lumber, plywood, plastic panels, sheet metal, square tube, or what, if you make the line and don't cut on the line, the dimensions will be off.

"Cut on the line" is also relative. Some folks take the line, I cut right at the edge of it or strive to. You have to do what works for you and trust me, there are many interpretations of what cut on the line means to folks.

It is also very hard to teach for some reason. It isn't a hard concept but the execution seems difficult for lots of folks. Also why I use a scribe line from something like an ice pick. That line is easy to see against the black frame paint and if you walk the cut from one side of the line to the other, it is still a good cut. Walk the cut from one side to the other of a Sharpie mark or china marker line, and the cut is out of square by 1/8". As the diagram shows, each arrow points to a 1/8" gap which is now 1/4".

You can also use a china marker or 1" wide Sharpie if you keep the cut exactly at the edge of it. I have found that most can not do that. The line width is their variable. As long as they stay within the two edges, they are good.
 
Somehow when I made the cut on the passenger side I missed the scribe line towards the top of the frame. I was trying to be careful but with the sparks flying from the cutoff disc I got off the scribe line. As BRB said it isn't a huge deal. I'll just make the passenger side extension tube a 1/2" longer than the drivers side. But if I'd already cut the tubing I'd be fucked.

To make it square I had to take a 1/4" off both ends of the frame.
The other thing I really see folks struggle with is making a line all the way around the frame and having them all line up so when you do actually cut on the line, the two ends are clean and square.

The problem is the radius at all the corners is pretty large. That means something like a Speed Square doesn't have enough width on the leg you put against the edge of the frame to ensure squareness since it doesn't reach down past the radius always.
One of these really helps.
1590933917576.png
 
No work on the Jeep today. But I was stimulating the local economy... Well somewhat local.

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Alright then got the back section of the frame under the Jeep. Passenger side 5.5" back from the cut and drivers side back 5" from the cut.

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Now to get the mid arm brackets back in place and then slide the rear axle under and then cycling the suspension to see how I like everything.
 
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To space the alignment angle I cut I needed some spacers the same thickness as the brackets. So I cut some 4" pieces of flat stock I had.

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Don't know if this is how Blaine does it but it's what I could figure out.

And then to make the angle pieces fit around the mid arm brackets I cut a notch into them.

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Rear axle is back under the Jeep. With the frame sitting as low as it is I have maybe a inch of up travel.

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Here is how much of the frame is sticking out of the rear of the Jeep right now.

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