Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

If that's the rear step in the cargo area, you likely need to dent in the corner to let the arms go further up.

How are you determinating ride height? For reference a 4" rear spring is about 12" tall at ride height.
 
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BuildBreakRepeat said:
Inch of up travel? Typo?
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No maybe I didn't explain it well enough in my post. I'd lowered the Jeep down from where I'd had it sitting to make cutting the frame easier. So it's only sitting 14" off the ground right now. So sitting so low there wasn't any up travel.
 
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jjvw said:
If that's the rear step in the catch area, you likely need to dent in the corner to let the arms go further up.

How are you determinating ride height? For reference a 4" rear spring is about 12" tall at ride height.
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I've got to raise it back up to where the frame is sitting at 23" off the ground. Right now it's about 14" off the ground.
 
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Set an upper spring seat in the frame arch. Measure the space where the bags would go.
 
I'm playing a balancing act have with no weight in the front. Since I've got the engine pulled if I'm not careful it wants to tip over backwards.

I've got it sitting at 23" at the frame where the jack stands are in the middle. So it's going to be a little lower in the front right now.

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Yes next is to get a spring pad in the arch and see how much I can go up.
And BTW I was at 17" frame height before not14".
 
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Wildman said:
I'm playing a balancing act have with no weight in the front. Since I've got the engine pulled if I'm not careful it wants to tip over backwards.
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Stop being a goober before you hurt yourself. Get some trailer D ring with the bolt on strap, put those at the front of the rig just below the ends of the frame horns and use some 1/2" Redhead drive in anchors to mount them to the concrete. The holes are set up for a carriage bolt but two seconds on the drill press makes them 1/2" round. Then use a bumper bolt, anchor shackle or whatever with a ratchet strap to suck the frame down onto two of your jack stands under the front frame horns.
 
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With the rear axle up to where it where the upper control arms are just touching the tub I'm 9" from upper to lower spring pads. Which is where I want to be at. The rear bags can be collapsed to that.

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Hitting the hardware store in the morning for some concrete bolts.
 
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Wildman said:
With the rear axle up to where it where the upper control arms are just touching the tub I'm 9" from upper to lower spring pads. Which is where I want to be at. The rear bags can be clasped to that.

View attachment 166676

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Hitting the hardware store in the morning for some concrete bolts.
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The cargo floor edge will dimple up quite nicely when you get the back of the frame bolted to the ground. Just jack the axle up and smack the control arm with a real hammer. The load from the impact clearances everything quite well. If you need more, do more.

You are looking for concrete anchors.
 
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mrblaine said:
The cargo floor edge will dimple up quite nicely when you get the back of the frame bolted to the ground. Just jack the axle up and smack the control arm with a real hammer. The load from the impact clearances everything quite well. If you need more, do more.

You are looking for concrete anchors.
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Yes my store in town has the concrete anchors. It's where I bought the ones for my compressor.

How much can I clearance that area? Can I gain an inch without cutting the tub?
 
Wildman said:
Yes my store in town has the concrete anchors. It's where I bought the ones for my compressor.

How much can I clearance that area? Can I gain an inch without cutting the tub?
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I guess I wasn't typing loud enough. Jack the axle up, load the arms against that lower edge, smack the bottom of the arm and it will dimple the tub. If you are are 9" collapsed now and want to go to 8", that isn't an inch at the cargo step, that is a barely noticeable dimple due to how levers work. A little bit of movement close to the pivot point is a lot of movement at the axle.
 
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mrblaine said:
I guess I wasn't typing loud enough. Jack the axle up, load the arms against that lower edge, smack the bottom of the arm and it will dimple the tub. If you are are 9" collapsed now and want to go to 8", that isn't an inch at the cargo step, that is a barely noticeable dimple due to how levers work. A little bit of movement close to the pivot point is a lot of movement at the axle.
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Nope I didn't have my hearing aids turned up high enough.... But yes I got it now.
 
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Wildman said:
Yes I can go to 8" of collapsed height. ORO said he likes 7.5-8" but likes to keep them at 8" when he can. So I could go up 1" more if I dent the tub.
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That 9" gap is roughly equivalent to 3" of up travel on a 4" spring lift. Try harder.

Dent the tub to get the axle higher.
20200601_201052.jpg


Also, trim the uppers so that the round seat is contacting the frame arch on both sides. This will raise the collapsed height of the bags relative to the frame.
20200601_200959.jpg
 
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