Thank you for your time!!!!! from the looks of reading up online I might have it installed wrong, or it could be right as it may need to be over the pitman arm if its a higher lift but not to sure. I messaged the CavFab just to double check and ill wait for @mrblaine to shed some of his knowledge.
I need help on rubber and heim joint and control arm suspension set up
- Thread starter Bitar100
- Start date
It doesn't look improperly installed, and the photo showing the drag link mounted on top of the Pitman arm is not how they are normally mounted. I can however understand why that person tried that position to see if it would help reduce bump steer.
I am now completely lost , I did more research on this set up and like u said its very very common to give shitty results. I am now not sure if the bolts are even mounted correctly on the knuckles , because from CavFabs YouTube videos on this product they have the bolt coming from underneath and mounting the nut on top of the knuckle while I have it the mounted the other way. Im not sure now if this another factor. I hope no tj owner buys this stupid set up!!!
If you look at the same steering the bolt is install the opposite way I have it, but when I installed it I followed the installation instructions and it had it the way I had it.
but on another video of CavFab it has the steering set up installed like the one in the picture. I am so lost this company does not now how to give proper installation instructions!!!!!
One thing that is stupid is how they install a dropped PItman arm but then mounted the drag link on top of it which removes the drop from the dropped Pitman arm. Why didn't they just use the stock Pitman arm or are they just clueless enough to think if a TJ is lifted it needs a dropped Pitman arm? Or maybe they don't know enough about geometry to realize any of that and just mounted it on top of the Pitman arm for looks lol.
As stated, there is no inherent flat spot with that style. All you get is some bump steer so you need to do the test again with the engine running and make sure none of the bolts are rocking back and forth and or there is play in the rod end ball in the body of the rod end.
After that, look elsewhere for your play.
I have stock knuckles about 100 a pair that I paid for a core charge on them. You are welcome to a pair for that but I don't believe that is your problem yet.
The only bad things are the bolts will be hard to keep tight and there will be some bump steer no matter how you install it unless you put the draglink on the bottom of the steering arm which will ruin the knuckle with a quickness.
If you look at the pictures I posted the draglinkk on my setups was installed on the bottom of my pitman arm as I followed the companies instructions.
So the way I have mine installed is wrong is what ur saying @mrblaine ?
I discussed it over with a friend and asked around with people who are running the steering set up on there Tjs and they told me I will need to relocate my track bar higher and put my steering stabilizer lower , im not sure if there is a bracket of some kind but the company that sold me this offers a whole new track bar set up with brackets for a good $350+.
https://www.cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-XJ-Over-the-Axle-OTA-Track-Bar-System_p_164.html
From my understanding it’s an over the axel trackbar that looks like the pictures in the set up of a person running the steering set up on their tj , if you can see he has moved the trackbar in comparison to mine higher . @mrblaine do you know anywhere I can buy just the brackets or will I have to get rid of the metal cloak track bar I have on and put a shorter one to be able to relocate my location of the trackbar higher
The shortened track bar will also give you some bump steer. You haven't indicated you have a bump steer issue, you have a slop issue and the trackbar swap won't fix that. The location above or below the pitman is not going to cause the slop you are complaining about. You need to do the things we asked and report back the results.
@mrblaine The problem I’m having is even with a straight steering wheel it drives almost shaky . It’s hard to explain but when going highway speeds I get play in the steering wheel . It’s not a severe case of bump steer but it happens when I go highway speeds it does not feel nice and straight, even tho the steering wheel is straight , it’s like going over the little bumps on the pavement makes it want to wiggle but when driving slower speeds on the street it isn’t that bad .
@mrblaine I did the test again with engine running turning the wheel from 10-2 none of the bolts have any play in them I checked all the points you mentioned to look out for no sign of play I even tugged around the components and no play all super tight .
I contacted the company CavFab and sent them pics of my set up and they told me to first try to flip the drag link connection on the pitman arm .
I tried to do that but it doesn’t work for my tj because I do not have enough clearance.
So then they told me that my second option is to get a track bar that moves the frame side mount lower or go with over the axel set up .
I also called up Arteic industries that sell a raised bracket for the track bar and sent them my pics they told me to get rid of the Bent Style Track bar that I currently have on and either make a straight shorter track bar with relocating brackets.
I’m not sure on what to do . Any thoughts @mrblaine on this because u mention in a reply that a shorter track bar will also give me bumpsteer
https://bkfabworks17.com/products/bkfabworks-over-the-axle-track-bar-setup-xj-mj-zj-tj
I found a company that sells a kit for not to bad of price , @mrblaine do you think this will fix my issue
I am not entirely sure how I would check that wouldnt I need the alignment tools like how they do at a alignment shop to know. I haven't ever gotten an alignment at a shop because every one tells me its just done through the drag link . Do you recommend I go to an allignment shop?
I have dont have a triangulated lift kit but terflax uses the alignment tools while I thought you couldn't on a tj and u only do it from the drag link, is that what I need bc I have never actually gone to an alignment shop
Also why do you say that it won't fix my problem , this video here even talks about :
. go to minute 5:00 on the video and he talks about the wiggly track bar I have right now. If you look at my mount of my track bar the geometry is not parallel, The only reason im asking is because 2 jeep shops around me told me the same exact thing , that my tack bar needs to be relocated but you are telling me it won't help . Wouldnt it make sense if I got a straight style track bar it would fix it and make it parallel to my drag link because if you look at it right now thats not parallel
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZR8WJ75/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The people who sold me this steering set up recommenced I lower my track bar like with the bracket listed above, you think thats worth a shot to try to install on to see if it makes it parallel, I mean its less than a full tank
The people who sold me this steering set up recommenced I lower my track bar like with the bracket listed above, you think thats worth a shot to try to install on to see if it makes it parallel, I mean its less than a full tank
You do you. I've explained that the looseness and vague steering is not from the trackbar draglink relationship. You have something loose, worn, deficient, and/or toe is screwed up.
You do NOT have a geometry issue.
Here is a link to a page with a mere smattering of the steering I've built over the years from scratch.
http://justaddrocks.com/Steering Pictures/steering.htm
If you can handle a drive, I'm a bit north of Temecula if you want to swing by so we can look at it for you.
Time
It’s a 2 hr drive but I would be willing to I bought breaks from you I know you real deal
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