LJ Trunk Enclosure

I moved past the cardboard stage. After some measuring and calculating I came up with this version out of 1/2 plywood. I'll finish making the sides, the scrap on the side raises it 2.5 inches. That puts it at 15 inches under. Its 40.75" to put it between the roll bars. It clears the latch in back.

I plan on paint and carpet on the outside. A rubber piece between the trunk and board and a hook to secure it to the floor. Of it needs more rigidity, I'll add a 1x2 or 2x2 strip to the top at the back and front. I may do that anyway and run eyebolts through for tie downs.

I'll add plans with dimensions when I'm done.

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Nice work...should look great once its carpeted
 
I got the sides done tonight. It took some trial and error to get the funky shape. I'm ready to glue and nail the pieces together then figure out how to hook it down and do some minor adjustments. My tow box fits which was the goal. There's actually 1/8-1/4 inch clearance when I straighten everything up straight.

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I got a little further on this after moving my daughter. I added some reinforcing strips on the edges, glued and finish nailed, and it strengthened up a lot.

I'm attaching my final measurements in US and the Entire Rest of the Planet units. I played it by ear with the belt sander and some trial and error in places, but this is the best fit with the least amount of cuts and sanding. If someone wanted they could do an arc around the wheel wells and get a better fit there. I'm going to add 2 carriage bolts by the seat belt strap mounts and use a heavy gauge wire to hold it down in front. I used the overhang in the back to keep it from being raised there. So it should provide a little security.


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I'm painting it black now and will add the final installed picture and update the bolt location dimensions when it's done.
 

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I ran out of paint for the inside, but got a second coat on the outside. Not a big deal, so I'll paint it inside later after banging around on it.

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This is what it looks like pressing your nose to the tinted soft top side window. You can't see it from the outside unless you really look.

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I'll attach the locking bolts when I get a couple smaller carriage bolts. These are too big and will be too close to the edge. I'll look at some eyebolts or fasteners for the corners on top to use for tie down points.

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I ran out of paint for the inside, but got a second coat on the outside. Not a big deal, so I'll paint it inside later after banging around on it.

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This is what it looks like pressing your nose to the tinted soft top side window. You can't see it from the outside unless you really look.

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I'll attach the locking bolts when I get a couple smaller carriage bolts. These are too big and will be too close to the edge. I'll look at some eyebolts or fasteners for the corners on top to use for tie down points.

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Tidy bit of work there....a bit of thought and patience really paid off. Looks like you have plenty of room on the top and bottom bunks.
 
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Also want to pass a long a big thank you for this thread! I have a local fab shop in KC that has quoted me $150 to make it out of 1/8 diamond plate and $215 for 3/16. The only issue they have is they don't have a press heavy enough to bend the metal so they would have to cut and weld. With my seats in the weld would have minimal visibility and these guys do really nice work so I know they will make it look good. I am also looking into having them weld some D-Rings on the inside to secure it, and possibly 4 on the corners of the top to strap a cooler or other gear down. I am going to do a quick cardboard mock-up to check fit and see if I want to make any other tweaks, but my initial review with a tape measure looks great. Also considering a cut-out for a subwoofer, but just getting crazy there. Hope to have it done in a couple of weeks and will add some pics.

What shop in KC made it for you? I know this is a old thread but hoping I can find a fab shop to make one for me!