Does any one here have any experience with removing a stripped e-torx bolt. For some unknown reason the engineer that was given the duty of how to bolt the 42RLE to a 4.0 decided to use e-torx bolts for the upper fasteners. It's the one on the passengers side. Thanx for any suggestions. I've spent the better part the day trying to get the damn bolt out.
Upstater
Member
I ground the heads off torx on the bumper using 4" grinder
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How much room do you have to work with? Maybe you could grind some flats into the outer edge of the bolt and get a wrench on it. Or you may have to just cut the bolt head off (cutoff wheel or sawzall) or drill out the center til the head is off, and then after the trans is removed grind some flats into the remaining stud and wrench it out. Worst case you find a way to tilt the whole engine and trans to get at it. And definitely replace it with regular hex head bolts, I'm systematically replacing all the stupid torx bolts on my jeep with hex heads.
E-Torx bolts have always been used in that location on the TJ no matter what the transmission is, back to the 32RH, AX-5, and AX-15 transmission days. That's a hard location for a wrench holding a conventional hex-head bolt to reach so an E-Torx is a natural choice since it can be held securely during manufacturing.
All it would have taken to avoid stripping that bolt was the proper E-12 E-Torx socket sold by Napa, Autozone, etc. Stripping a bolt head because you don't have the right socket isn't something I'd publicly rail about. In that particular location, I find that particular hard to reach E-Torx bolt head to be better and easier to hang onto to remove or replace with an E-12 adapter than a conventional bolt head is.
So how does he get the stripped one out?E-Torx bolts have always been used in that location on the TJ no matter what the transmission is, back to the 32RH, AX-5, and AX-15 transmission days. That's a hard location for a wrench holding a conventional hex-head bolt to reach so an E-Torx is a natural choice since it can be held securely during manufacturing.
All it would have taken to avoid stripping that bolt was the proper E-12 E-Torx socket sold by Napa, Autozone, etc. Stripping a bolt head because you don't have the right socket isn't something I'd publicly rail about. In that particular location, I find that particular hard to reach E-Torx bolt head to be better and easier to hang onto to remove or replace with an E-12 adapter than a conventional bolt head is.
E-Torx bolts have always been used in that location on the TJ no matter what the transmission is, back to the 32RH, AX-5, and AX-15 transmission days. That's a hard location for a wrench holding a conventional hex-head bolt to reach so an E-Torx is a natural choice since it can be held securely during manufacturing.
All it would have taken to avoid stripping that bolt was the proper E-12 E-Torx socket sold by Napa, Autozone, etc. Stripping a bolt head because you don't have the right socket isn't something I'd publicly rail about. In that particular location, I find that particular hard to reach E-Torx bolt head to be better and easier to hang onto to remove or replace with an E-12 adapter than a conventional bolt head is.
Oh really? 1998 TJ 32RH and 4.0L
And plenty of stuck torx bolts get stripped out even with the proper socket. Lighten up on the guy.
Yes, even my 97 TJ came with the E-12 in that position. That's when I first discovered Extended Torx bolts, when I converted it from its OE AX-15 to the 32RH.
If that 98 doesn't have an E-12 bolt there then someone replaced it.
There's no reason to use the wrong tool when auto parts stores carry them.
If that 98 doesn't have an E-12 bolt there then someone replaced it.
There's no reason to use the wrong tool when auto parts stores carry them.
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E-Torx bolts have always been used in that location on the TJ no matter what the transmission is, back to the 32RH, AX-5, and AX-15 transmission days. That's a hard location for a wrench holding a conventional hex-head bolt to reach so an E-Torx is a natural choice since it can be held securely during manufacturing.
All it would have taken to avoid stripping that bolt was the proper E-12 E-Torx socket sold by Napa, Autozone, etc. Stripping a bolt head because you don't have the right socket isn't something I'd publicly rail about. In that particular location, I find that particular hard to reach E-Torx bolt head to be better and easier to hang onto to remove or replace with an E-12 adapter than a conventional bolt head is.
Jerry,
I did use the proper E-12 E-Torx socket. I didn't have any issues with the bolt on the drivers side. The only thing I can figure out is that maybe the PO or his/her mechanic buggered it up. E-Torx bolts are well and good for manufacturing because they can be securely held by a machine. Not so much during servicing. The only reason that I can come up with as to why they were developed was to sell more tools. If you visit any BMW or MB forums you will hear much of the same. I can understand what the engineer was up against. "How can I solve this problem in the most cost efficient manner?" It still doesn't make any sense to me when the transmission and engine are installed in the vehicle as one unit during the manufacturing process. Maybe that's why I am still an electronics technician after 25 years. I've gotten used to making engineering decisions work in the real world. I never stated that I stripped the bolt.
GASnBRASS,
There is very little room to work with in that area. The only solution I can see is to pull the engine.
Maybe I should try a E-11. I even tried using the craftsman damaged bolt/nut remover extractor tool. Item #00952166000P.
Take a look underneath and see if removing the shifter plate would gain you better access, along with dropping the rear of the transmission you may be able to drill out the head and leave the stud til later. It might be a case where you blindly reach forward with a drill and someone else spots you to get it on the bolt.
You just perfectly described why torx tools were developed, for easier manufacturing. Not because tool manufacturers wanted to sell more tools.
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I wish I had that much room. Here's what I have to work with. Transmission dropped all the way.
I can only find E-11 sockets thru Snap-on. On the BMW and MB fourms they mention left handed drill bits. I may give that a try.
Unless you can find a really long drill bit to reach it then you might have to pull the trans/motor. Torx bolts suck and I don't give a damn what anybody says. They are nothing but headaches in the dirty corrosive enviroment that vehicles are exposed to.
CarrotTop
New Member
You can get a set of torx bits, external and regular, from Lowes for pretty cheap.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-23-Piece-3-8-in-Drive-Torx-Driver-Socket-Set-with-Case/50219607
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-23-Piece-3-8-in-Drive-Torx-Driver-Socket-Set-with-Case/50219607
I am grabbing at straws here, but can you do the trick used on removing locking lug nuts - find a 12-point socket that is slightly smaller than that bolt head, pound it on using a hammer, and get it loose that way? Like I said, guessing...
CarrotTop,
Thanx for the info. I have a set. For some reason one of them is buggered.
GASnBRASS,
Thanx for the idea. Look what I found...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-7-16-in-Hex-Quick-Connect-18-in-Drill-Bit-Extension/3307426
glwood,
I've tried that. I've also tried to use the correct tool. There is not alot of room to work with in there. I don't want to pull the motor. It's already turned into a project.
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