Crank But No Start

[Sputter]

Multiple issues found.

1. #4 injector has a short
2. Intake Air Temp Sensor has exposed wires - intermittent short
3. Camshaft Position Sensor wires are exposed - were likely rubbing

Going to try repairing the frayed wires with liquid electrical tape and/or heat shrink and retest. Need to dig in more on number 4 injector. Can't seem to find a replacement harness so long term I will probably replace the pigtails on a number of these sensors.

 

[Daryl]

Multiple issues found.

1. #4 injector has a short
2. Intake Air Temp Sensor has exposed wires - intermittent short
3. Camshaft Position Sensor wires are exposed - were likely rubbing

Going to try repairing the frayed wires with liquid electrical tape and/or heat shrink and retest. Need to dig in more on number 4 injector. Can't seem to find a replacement harness so long term I will probably replace the pigtails on a number of these sensors.

I know you said earlier that the insulation was still flexible but your pictures have indicators of hard brittle insulation. I don’t think you’re going to locate a harness on the Internet. You’ll need to do it the old fashioned way...a phone call. These dismantlers don’t list everything they have for sale. Call Davey’s Jeep and ask. I think you’ll save yourself a lot of time & energy. You’re doing a great job by the way.

 

[Sputter]

I know you said earlier that the insulation was still flexible but your pictures have indicators of hard brittle insulation. I don’t think you’re going to locate a harness on the Internet. You’ll need to do it the old fashioned way...a phone call. These dismantlers don’t list everything they have for sale. Call Davey’s Jeep and ask. I think you’ll save yourself a lot of time & energy. You’re doing a great job by the way.

Contacted Davey’s Jeep, DeadJeep and a few others and no one had it. So I went ahead and ordered pigtails which should be here next week. Will keep you posted.

 

[Sputter]

Got all the connectors in. Getting started repairing the wiring harness and testing each wire’s continuity as I go. I plan on finishing up the connectors tomorrow, wrap the harness and install on Saturday.

 

[Sputter]

New wiring harness in. Still no spark and fuel injectors are not firing.

 

[Sputter]

Only .45 volts at pin 2 of ignition coil pack connector when trying to start. Continuity checks out all the way back to pin 22 in C1. So the wire is connection is good. Just can't seem to figure out why it has suddenly decided not to provide proper voltage back to the coil - even with the ASD in bypass.

 

[Daryl]

Only .45 volts at pin 2 of ignition coil pack connector when trying to start. Continuity checks out all the way back to pin 22 in C1. So the wire is connection is good. Just can't seem to figure out why it has suddenly decided not to provide proper voltage back to the coil - even with the ASD in bypass.

Make sure that jumper is installed only long enough to take a voltage reading, otherwise you can damage the coil. You already know that the crankshaft sensor is what energizes the ASD relay and that the sensor tested satisfactory. The camshaft sensor is what synchronizes the injectors. You need to diagnose why the ASD relay is not being energized. Remove your ASD. Unplug connector 1 at the PCM. Check for continuity from pin 2 at the PCM plug to pin A13 at the ASD location. And why you have the connector unplugged test pins 31 & 32 for good grounds.

 

[Sputter]

Thanks Daryl. Will check in the morning and let you know.

 

[Sputter]

Continuity looks good between ASD 13 and pin on the pcm 1 wiring harness.

 

[Sputter]

Pins 31 & 32 to ground look good.

 

[Daryl]

Pins 31 & 32 to ground look good.

Not sure what “looks good” means. The continuity test is good? As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. You’ve already addressed many issues with your Jeep, but every picture you post I see other potential problems. The battery cable post repair ends, I hate those things, they’re great as a temporary repair but not good long term. Take them apart and clean them well. The PDC battery connector has one of the studs broken, remove the unbroken stud and clean the connector well and see if the broken stud can be replaced. One of your other pictures showed a relay in the PDC that had a hole in the top of it, replace it as dirt, debris & water can get in there. With all the wiring issues you’ve uncovered I would remove that PDC with the harness and inspect every inch of it like you did with the engine harness. While it’s removed, make sure to unsnap the bottom cover to expose the wiring. Finally, visually inspect every pin in the PCM and harness for signs of bent, corroded or otherwise damaged pins. Check G105 for a good connection.

 

[Sputter]

Yes the continuity was good. I’ll get started pulling a part the PDC. That was my next thoughts too. Will do a thorough inspection and report back.

 

[Sputter]

Got started back on this today. Only a few items of concern that I can see. Battery cables feel pliable and look to be in good shape except for the terminals. One of the posts on the pdc is torn off. Not sure how to fix that and I can’t seem to find a replacement part number. Wiring to the PDC looks to be on decent shape but could probably use some cleaning. Any recommendations for battery terminal replacements?

 

[Daryl]

Buy a used harness from a Jeep dismantler. What you have could be salvaged but I would exhaust all my energy on finding an OEM harness from a Jeep dismantler. Trust me, I’ve been down this road many times.

 

[Sputter]

I’ve checked with a number of companies. No one seems to carry a harness for a 2.4 L with an automatic. But if you think that’s the best option here, I will keep looking.

 

[Daryl]

I’ve checked with a number of companies. No one seems to carry a harness for a 2.4 L with an automatic. But if you think that’s the best option here, I will keep looking.

Let me know what comes of your search. If you do have to perform a salvage repair you’ll at least need a junction block (part with the broken stud). Those can come from a TJ or Cherokee.

 

[Daryl]

Got started back on this today. Only a few items of concern that I can see. Battery cables feel pliable and look to be in good shape except for the terminals. One of the posts on the pdc is torn off. Not sure how to fix that and I can’t seem to find a replacement part number. Wiring to the PDC looks to be on decent shape but could probably use some cleaning. Any recommendations for battery terminal replacements?

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You see that stranded wire that someone shoved under the broken stud side of the junction block, that was someone’s solution (and a poor one at that), to add some accessory and while they were removing the nut the stud broke. The correct solution would have been to replace the junction block. Go to your local pick n pull and get one from a Cherokee because they’re more plentiful than a TJ in wrecking yards.

 

[KCsTJ]

Let me know what comes of your search. If you do have to perform a salvage repair you’ll at least need a junction block (part with the broken stud). Those can come from a TJ or Cherokee.

Would a harness from a 97 2.5L work?

 

[Sputter]

Got a lead on a couple of wiring harnesses but they are expensive. $275 to $400. Decided to do a thorough inspection and cleaning of the PDC. Also repaired the junction box terminal (we’ll see how long that lasts) cleaned, retightened and tested the grounds. Did a bunch more continuity testing and found no issues. New battery terminal post kit coming tomorrow. If that doesn’t fix it, I guess I will be spending $275 on a replacement harness. More to come!

 

[Sputter]

New connectors - cleaned and crimped. Looks pretty. Unfortunately I am still not getting enough voltage to the coil connector pin #2. When I add the ASD jumper, I get zero volts. Puzzling because it used to run. I hate to throw more money at it but it looks like the next step is to buy another harness for $275. Thoughts?