No crank, no start

[06softtop]

Having issue for about a year, no crank no start. Changed starter, pcm, CPS, ignition key, actuator for key, ignition module, good battery, battery cables, relays. Battery and fuel gauge don't rise when ignition on, but every now and then it will start, but next morning no crank, any ideas???

 

[Jerry Bransford]

There's a 99.99% chance your issue is either a bad battery connection or the battery isn't as good as you think it is. Start by buying a wire battery brush at your local auto parts store, they're only $4-5. They have both male and female wire brushes for cleaning the inside of the connectors and battery posts. Remove both battery connectors and use the battery brush to clean them until they're bright and shiny clean. Then securely reinstall both connections making sure they are TIGHT on the battery posts and see what happens.

If that doesn't fix the problem have the battery "load tested" by a competent battery shop which does not include a store like AutoZone. Few auto parts stores have people that know how to properly conduct a load test which requires a special piece of equipment. A load test places a heavy electrical load on the battery for at least ten seconds and measures the battery voltage during the test. If the battery voltage drops off too much during the load test the battery is bad. There is no other way to determine your battery's true health.

 

[Jeepin’]

The day I bought my son’s TJ I stopped for gas on the way home. When I turned the key, nothing. I checked everything...battery connections, fuses, etc... I hated to do it but I called the PO. He said, “Turn the key real slow. I don’t know why, but it just does that sometimes.” Sure enough, I turned the key in the ignition slowly and it started right up. I’m sure it’s something with the ignition switch and I plan on figuring it out, but as long as it’s working I’ve got much bigger fish to fry if you’ve been reading my thread :meparto:

 

[06softtop]

There's a 99.99% chance your issue is either a bad battery connection or the battery isn't as good as you think it is. Start by buying a wire battery brush at your local auto parts store, they're only $4-5. They have both male and female wire brushes for cleaning the inside of the connectors and battery posts. Remove both battery connectors and use the battery brush to clean them until they're bright and shiny clean. Then securely reinstall both connections making sure they are TIGHT on the battery posts and see what happens.

If that doesn't fix the problem have the battery "load tested" by a competent battery shop which does not include a store like AutoZone. Few auto parts stores have people that know how to properly conduct a load test which requires a special piece of equipment. A load test places a heavy electrical load on the battery for at least ten seconds and measures the battery voltage during the test. If the battery voltage drops off too much during the load test the battery is bad. There is no other way to determine your battery's true health.

Thank for the input, did load test showing 12 v, I also changed battery clamps and cables including ground cable, also clean body to ground and battery to engine, the thing that's mind blowing, I know when it will start. The fuel gauge and battery gauge rise when key is on position, and no start when those 2 gauges dont move, but rest of gauges and lights work. This is crazy.

 

[Patriot]

I had an XJ that did sort of the same thing. I would turn to the on position and wait for up to 30 seconds before I would hear the fuel pump kick in and It would crank. This may sound crazy but it worked. I had read somewhere that If electric grease was applied to the plug in the rear of the instrument cluster it would clear up the problem. I thought fat chance! Well it worked and it has been cranking for a year now! Go figure

 

[T Crawford]

Do some reading to see if the ignition switch behind the key may get be bad