Horn Switch Wiring

I think this is what I need to do with mine. Gotta go get my emissions sticker before I pull the battery again though. You guys disconnected your batteries before removing the horn switch right?
 
I think this is what I need to do with mine. Gotta go get my emissions sticker before I pull the battery again though. You guys disconnected your batteries before removing the horn switch right?

I didn't and nothing bad happened. Was I supposed to?
 
I was reading that if you mess with the airbag, you need to disconnect the battery
 
t's certainly not pretty, but hell if it don't work! I have a horn again! (this is a vital piece of equipment for us Masshole drivers).
Nice find & nice fix! I'm from the east coast myself, since I moved out west I'm just boggled by what a taboo it is to honk one's horn. I honk at a redlight when the person in front doesn't move & you'd think I just threw a basket of puppies out my truck window from the looks I get.
 
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It's certainly not pretty, but hell if it don't work! I have a horn again! (this is a vital piece of equipment for us Masshole drivers). I will eventually need to source a used horn switch, I don't believe I can buy a replacement without getting a whole airbag for some reason.

Thanks again for your input, and hopefully this helps someone else.
They also make a copper/conductive tape (usually for repairing rear window heating grids), which has some flexibility.
 
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"Masshole", now that's funny.
Where I live we rag on the "Florididiots, Florons, and Halfbackers". A Halfbacker is a New Yorker that moved to Flarida and is halfway back to New York.
 
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Is there a trick to doing this with normal leads or do we need really really long leads?
If your leads aren't long enough you can use any bulk wire to bridge the gap. I have a little spool of 12g wire that I use for stuff like this, just wrap one end of it around the lead & touch the other end of the wire to your target.

Which ones are 11, 13, 14, & 15?

Here's a snapshot from your FSM, section 8W. It shows the labels of all the relay sockets.

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To rule out the horn, you can take a small wire and just jump the switched side of the relay. Put wire across terminals C15 and C14, if the horn works then you know the circuit is good from the battery all the way down to the ground for the horn.

I put a wire across 11-14 and the horn worked.
 
Yes, that works also. I just woke my neighbors up testing it.
Haha, ok. So what you just did was confirm that the wiring from the PDC down to the horn is GTG. C11 & C15 are both fed right from the battery, so you provided battery voltage down to the horn itself and it worked. That means that the problem is somewhere on the control side of the circuit, from the PDC back through the clock spring & your horn switch, or possibly the relay. Have you tried swapping the horn relay with the starter relay? If you do that & it still doesn't work your problem is most likely in the steering wheel. See my super technical engineering below:

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