Do I need 4340 chromoly shafts for a Dana 44 that is locked running 33's?

How about stock vs chromoly shafts for a locked front Dana 30 axle on 33s? Overkill as well?
Personally, I would, just for the extra strength of the u-joint yokes. Apparently the most common failure is the yoke stretches and the u-joint self-destructs. Might as well go for the bigger u-joint ones if the price is right.

Though it depends on what you do with it, and how reliable you need it to be. If you're fine carrying spares, then carry a spare and don't worry about it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
I broke a front stock and bent a rear stock on 33's. Rear was just a flange wobble still drivable but could feel it. Upgraded both ends because I was replacing them anyway, why not go chromoly? I drive a little easier offroad now, since I have to drive the Jeep home.
 
How about stock vs chromoly shafts for a locked front Dana 30 axle on 33s? Overkill as well?
I broke the ears on the passenger side outer shaft with that exact setup. It damaged the inner shaft. Replaced with 4340 chromoly.
 
I broke my front (locked) 44 on 33s earlier this year. It's been wheeled a fair amount over its life, but I do not drive it hard.
Of course it was the outer stub that actually broke, which is only a Dana 30.
I upgraded the front shafts after that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
One of my early outings to the ORV park, I stalled climbing a steep rocky face. Depress clutch, hold break, restart, slight skinny pedal with toe while letting the clutch out with left foot and easing right heal off brake pedal, start rolling backward about the time the clutch fully engaged.....pop goes the right front axle. (33's)
 
Last edited:
  • Sad
Reactions: JMT
I broke the ears on the passenger side outer shaft with that exact setup. It damaged the inner shaft. Replaced with 4340 chromoly.
What shafts and u-joints are you running now?
 
One of my early outings to the ORV park, I stalled climbing a steep rocky face. Depress clutch, hold break, restart, slight skinny pedal with toe while letting the clutch out with left foot and easing right heal off brake pedal, start rolling backward about the time the clutch fully engaged.....pop goes the right front axle. (33's)
What position was your steering in? Straight? Turned? Turned hard?
 
I busted my stock shaft (well, the ear like most people) on 33s. I don’t think I’m terribly heavy on the skinny pedal, but may have compromised it when I replaced the ujoint a year or so prior.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Personally, I would, just for the extra strength of the u-joint yokes. Apparently the most common failure is the yoke stretches and the u-joint self-destructs. Might as well go for the bigger u-joint ones if the price is right.

Though it depends on what you do with it, and how reliable you need it to be. If you're fine carrying spares, then carry a spare and don't worry about it.
I heard that when you upgrade shafts and u joints, the weak link is then the ring gear. How accurate is that? What typically breaks first in a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts and upgraded ujoints?
 
I heard that when you upgrade shafts and u joints, the weak link is then the ring gear. How accurate is that? What typically breaks first in a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts and upgraded ujoints?
I believe it’s still the shaft, but not by much. It would depend on what locker you have and the quality of the gears and the install. A factory Rubicon locker would probably be weaker than the chromoly shafts, but an ARB or Eaton would probably be stronger. Properly installed gears with high quality metal would probably be fine. Lower tooth count helps as well.

There are kits to install 33 or even 35 spline chromoly shafts in a Dana 44. That would probably make either the locker or the gears the weak link.

There is also a product called the Jana K4 that installs a bigger ring and pinion in the differential for extra strength. Most people here don’t bother.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob