Welding floor pan gaps

[Stinkbug]

I grind to bare metal but if you are referring to whip downs with cleaningproducts.... . Maybe I should have. I'll do that with I take on the driver side

Grinding to bare metal is sufficient. However, If you wipe it with a chemical make sure it is NOT brake cleaner. Brake cleaner and welding are hazardous to your health. The combination of high heat and the chemicals in brake cleaner when combined can create gasses that even in small doses are very dangerous.

 

[Stinkbug]

are you using solid wire and gas? flux core wire is not gonna weld that stuff, it's to thin.

solid wire with gas shielding and low temp then it's just tack tack tack tack tack all the way around.

I believe the Lincoln Weldpak 125 he posted is flux core only.

 

[mrblaine]

If you wipe it with a chemical make sure it is NOT brake cleaner. Brake cleaner and welding are hazardous to your health. The combination of high heat and the chemicals in brake cleaner when combined can create gasses that even in small doses are very dangerous.

To clarify, not all brake cleaners have the bad component that produces phosgene gas when heated.
https://www.envirofluid.com/articles/tetrachloroethylene-a-deadly-danger-in-brake-cleaner/

 

[Stinkbug]

Have you found a sprayable seam sealer that mimics the OEM look?

Due to the anemic output of my air compressor I never looked into spray options.

I have only use the type that comes in a tube like caulk and applied with a caulking gun or the brush-able type that comes in a can.

I wear a rubber glove and dip my finger in paint thinner to smooth the appearance and seem to achieve results that are not too hard on the eyes.

I have heard it is also available in a roll with a plastic backing that peels off. Think of it as taping a drywall joint (without the mess). I have not tried it but I imagine this method could be made to look pretty good on a project like this where there are a lot of long straight runs.

 

[mrblaine]

Due to the anemic output of my air compressor I never looked into spray options.

I have only use the type that comes in a tube like caulk and applied with a caulking gun or the brush-able type that comes in a can.

I wear a rubber glove and dip my finger in paint thinner to smooth the appearance and seem to achieve results that are not too hard on the eyes.

I have heard it is also available in a roll with a plastic backing that peels off. Think of it as taping a drywall joint (without the mess). I have not tried it but I imagine this method could be made to look pretty good on a project like this where there are a lot of long straight runs.

The typical sprayable types don't require lots of air or as much as a spray gun does. They use a fancy caulking gun that uses air pressure to move the caulk plunger through the tube and then a spray nozzle to break it up. I'm not looking for pretty, I'm looking to duplicate factory which is anything but.

 

[Mrpsound]

Ok so this is an update after I made the post and was waiting for responses. I tried to see if I could connect the big gaps and they kinda did . I grind them down a little to see if they burned through.

I looks as though It did. I also changed a little settings, like spoken in the threads.

I went to look for copper spoons and no one has them.

 

[Grant Lasson]

Thanks a lot! I tried turn the weld up and it just burns through the smaller pieces when draging of the new pan. Could I be due to not slanting my edges

The welding process you seem to be using is not appropriate for car body panels. That's a big portion of your welding challenges. MIG (which uses a gas shield of carbon dioxide and argon) or TIG (which uses a shield had of argon) will both work. Flux core (which uses no gas) works better for structural steel requirements. It recommend you find a friend with a MIG.

 

[Grant Lasson]

Copper "spoon" from Harbor Freight

 

[mrblaine]

View attachment 196016Copper "spoon" from Harbor FreightView attachment 196015

I have long arms and even they aren't long enough to use that for that job.
This works better when you can't reach the other side.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VHZHBO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Grant Lasson]

That's great. Changes it from a two person job... I'll be getting one.

 

[mrblaine]

That's great. Changes it from a two person job... I'll be getting one.

The magnet could benefit from a bit more stick. Other than that, works pretty well. That and I didn't mean to imply that two folks couldn't make the spoon work, I was more focused on junior pretty much ignoring everyone's advice to get some help and understand that flux core is not for body work. What he should have done is follow the write up in the how-to section using body panel adhesive and stainless steel rivets. At least then he would have learned about overlapping joints.

 

[Mrpsound]

The magnet could benefit from a bit more stick. Other than that, works pretty well. That and I didn't mean to imply that two folks couldn't make the spoon work, I was more focused on junior pretty much ignoring everyone's advice to get some help and understand that flux core is not for body work. What he should have done is follow the write up in the how-to section using body panel adhesive and stainless steel rivets. At least then he would have learned about overlapping joints.

Thanks! However when I wrote the thread, I had already started. As stated in the first thread, I talked to a guy at home depot ,who also has a jeep. I did know about overlapping, but I was told butt welding is the best route if done right. It eliminates future rust spots

 

[Mrpsound]

Maybe I should mention, I work from 6pm to 4am so times are limited. Im doing the best I can and I mentioned I will be overlapping the driver side.

P.s as mentioned, the second batch of pictures is what I did while I was waiting for people to reply. Sometimes in life, we must ask for help but also attempt until help gets there.

Who knows what tomorrow bring?

 

[sierradmax]

In addition to your welds, why not try this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8K2812/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Grant Lasson]

Maybe I should mention, I work from 6pm to 4am so times are limited. Im doing the best I can and I mentioned I will be overlapping the driver side.

P.s as mentioned, the second batch of pictures is what I did while I was waiting for people to reply. Sometimes in life, we must ask for help but also attempt until help gets there.

Who knows what tomorrow bring?

So many people today are afraid to do anything. Change their own oil? Never.

Learning comes with costs. I've made some expensive mistakes because I got in over my head/experience. I try to never second guess those costs. Or any accompanying embarassment. Over time, experience accumulates and better judgement happens.

You jumped into the deep end by making your first welding project body panels. Now that you're in the midst of it, you have a great learning opportunity. You're getting good advice from the members here. If you can adapt, you will succeed.

 

[Mrpsound]

So many people today are afraid to do anything. Change their own oil? Never.

Learning comes with costs. I've made some expensive mistakes because I got in over my head/experience. I try to never second guess those costs. Or any accompanying embarassment. Over time, experience accumulates and better judgement happens.

You jumped into the deep end by making your first welding project body panels. Now that you're in the midst of it, you have a great learning opportunity. You're getting good advice from the members here. If you can adapt, you will succeed.

Absolutely. As a graduate from penn state college of art and architecture, I strive on experience. Anything another being can accomplish, so can I in due time. Just need a great community as such to water my seeds and watch me grow

 

[someguysjeep]

sorry i know your new at this but unless you wanna fred flintstone that thing, it needs to be better. can you get access to an arc welder with solid wire and gas shielding?
if not your best bet might be to get another pan ans start again. Millsupply in cleve has them for 59$
https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/jeep/wrangler-tj/
neaten out your floor cuts, then use a cardboard template to make an overlapping shape, and transfer that to your new part. by drilling several holes in the new section overlap you can then walk the edges and use small plug welds. but even then you need a dif machine.

a welder with the right welder could fill that crap up and grind it out presentable, but your not gonna do it with that machine, sorry.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks! However when I wrote the thread, I had already started. As stated in the first thread, I talked to a guy at home depot ,who also has a jeep. I did know about overlapping, but I was told butt welding is the best route if done right. It eliminates future rust spots

Too many overlapping and flanged assemblies on the TJ for that to be a concern. If you note, there lots over overlapped joints and they are seam sealed and undercoated to keep water out.

If done with future waterproofing in mind, there is little difference if both are done with an eye towards the end result.

 

[TDI Sahara]

I would be careful with the excessive grinding of the welds. Not only is it a waste of time/consumables, but you are making the floor pans even thinner and harder to weld on your second pass. Maybe change to a less aggressive flap disc instead of a grinding wheel if you insist on making it look better.

 

[JeepingNet]

This reminds me of my first welding project doing the exact same job. Your going to struggle using flux on that thin of a metal.

I really struggled but then I sold my welder and bought a 120v MIG and stepped down to .25 wire and made the job a totally different experience. After selling my welder and buying a used mig I think it only cost me around $200 but it has been a great investment.

Once you have the right welder you can close up those gaps but slowly building up the gap by adding more weld. Let it cool down or it will burn through.