JMT’s 91' XJ Build

You should have a fixed end and a shackle end on the spring. If memory serves (and physics verifies) the shackle end should be in back. So, bolt the front of the spring in, then the back, than the axle. If I read your post correctly, you can get the shackle far enough forward to reach the spring?

In that case, bolt the axle to the spring and lower the vehicle down to help compress the spring. Might be a bit finicky to get the bolt holes to line up, but that is the safest way to do it, in my mind.
That’s what I did, and I’m still 2” from getting the holes to line up.

I’m thinking I need to remove a leaf.
 
Tom's had shackles so it was way easier to line up than that.

I stole this from a cherokee forum.

"Install the front eye first. Then loosely attach the axle. Use the weight of the vehicle by jacking the axle to compress the springs. You will likely need to let your shackles swing way forward to line up. Once the Jeep is on the ground you torque everything. Best of luck."
Yep, tried that, but my factory shackle just won’t reach.

Thanks for helping a confused fella.
 
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@PCO6, also @Mike_H, can you look at this pic and give me any suggestions as to how I'm supposed to get the rear eye lined up with the stock shackle? I have the full weight of the jeep on it and I still can't get it there.

Do I need to remove a leaf? I keep thinking there is so much arch that I can't get it to line up. If I remove the middle leaf, will that allow it to sag more so I can get the holes to line up?

Notice in the pics there is a rubber washer between each leaf and underneath each one is a flat head screw. I keep wondering what that screw is there for. Maybe just to hold that rubber washer in place because they do not go through the leaf above.

To remove a leaf, do I let all the tension off the leaf, then remove the keeper, and finally the center bolt?

If all remains as is, it appears to be giving me more lift than I want, about 5", and they are marketed as 3" leafs. So, one thought is I will need to remove a leaf anyway.

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@JMT - That's got to be frustrating. Before disassembling or modifying anything I'd give Zone or the supplier you dealt with a "what's up" call. What you have is clearly a stock set up so they should fit.

I think someone above mentioned the adjustable shackles. I have no experience with them but understand they are good for adjusting spring height. You shouldn't have to use them though for a basic re&re job though. I have a couple of sets of the non-stock longer shackles on my shelf (look the same as stock but longer). They have a couple of settings for ride height but I don't think they would solve this problem.

When I did the rears in my '95 I used an old main leaf and just added 4 (I think) sub leaves that a spring shop put together for me so it was pretty straight forward.

I see lifts and springs discussed all the time on https://www.cherokeeforum.com/ . I'm sure this has come up before and someone can provide some advice.

Good luck!
 
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Notice in the pics there is a rubber washer between each leaf and underneath each one is a flat head screw. I keep wondering what that screw is there for. Maybe just to hold that rubber washer in place because they do not go through the leaf above.
Those rubber bumpers/isoloators help cut down on squeaks, rattles, metallic rubbing noises, and slapping when the leaf springs flex and move around as the axle articulates up and down. It also acts a slip for the individual leafs to rub against each other without wearing out the springs. I would advise against removal.
 
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can you look at this pic and tell me how I'm supposed to get the rear eye lined up with the stock shackle? I have the full weight of the jeep on it and I still can't get it there.
Sometimes the installation requires two different jacks and a pry bar or two. You need to flatten out the lifted (arc'd) springs to get it to become longer, when flattened out more, the spring eye to spring eye measurements should be more in line with the factory Cherokee leaf spring mounts.

Hope that makes sense.

Do I need to remove a leaf? I keep thinking there is so much arch that I can't get it to line up. If I remove the middle leaf, will that allow it to sag more so I can get the holes to line up?
No, an attempt to get the spring flat will help tremendously getting you spring eyes to line up with their Cherokee factory mounts.
 
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Good luck!
This is the resounding advice! "Good luck!"

Thank you. I plan to call Zone, which is Sport Truck USA on Monday. I've got to get this thing out of my garage. The coils should go on next weekend, I suspect without much issue, so I'll have a crazy rake for a week, but we will see if I can get the rear sorted out ASAP.
 
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Sometimes the installation requires two different jacks and a pry bar or two. You need to flatten out the lifted (arc'd) springs to get it to become longer, when flattened out more, the spring eye to spring eye measurements should be more in line with the factory Cherokee leaf spring mounts.

Hope that makes sense.


No, an attempt to get the spring flat will help tremendously getting you spring eyes to line up with their Cherokee factory mounts.
Everything you said makes sense, I just don't know how to get them flatter. I will try your suggestion of a pry bar to flatten the spring and get them to line up. PITB.
 
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Everything you said makes sense, I just don't know how to get them flatter. I will try your suggestion of a pry bar to flatten the spring and get them to line up. PIT you know what!
On a typical Jeep Wrangler with a frame, one can add a ratchet strap to the axle and the frame, ratcheting the axle up towards the frame flattens the leaf spring, making it longer and easier to slide the spring mount bolt into place. Note: the frame needs to be on jack stands and often tied down to anchors placed in the cement/floor.
 
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I pryed it till the rear eye was well below the rear shackle and still not long enough.

That shackle has an old worn out bushing in it. I can move the shackle back and forth, and I wondered if I removed it and replaced the bushing if I could angle it different and get it close.

I also put a bottle jack on top of the rear of the spring and my other jacks under the axle and tried to flatten it that way. It gets to the point where the whole Jeep just starts pushing up because it doesn't weigh enough to push the spring down anymore. No luck!

I think I can see how to remove a leaf safely, and if I can get some time away from work I'll try to remove the middle leaf and see if the Jeep weighs enough then to bring it down. If I can get both eyes in, the rest should be a piece of cake. I'm afraid I'll have to remove a leaf anyway. It's going to be like 5" of lift if I leave them all in, and that's too much. I'm trying to avoid issues like driveline stuff and dropping the TCase.
 
Did you disconnect the shocks and loosen the u-bolts a little then raise the axle up and pry the spring down?
 
Did you disconnect the shocks and loosen the u-bolts a little then raise the axle up and pry the spring down?
Yep, exactly what I did, raising axle and prying springs down, no shocks on either side, both U-Bolts attached, but all four nuts on both sides are loose. It's a cryin' shame!
 
Will the shackle pivot forward more seems like your 2x4 is blocking it from laying forward more.
 
Will the shackle pivot forward more seems like your 2x4 is blocking it from laying forward more.
The 2x4 is gone now. That shackle can pivot forward some, but it's limited due to the bushing. I still need 1" more when I have the shackle pivoted forward as much as I can. Attaching a couple of pics.

Pic #1: Two jacks, a floor jack under the axle and a bottle jack on top of the spring in the wheel well. I was hoping to flatten the spring enough to get the eye lined up with the shackle. I got to the point where the whole Jeep just started lifting up and spring getting flatter, but rear shackle rising so there was no way to line them up.
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Pic #2: I'm pushing the shackle forward in the second one, difficult to do and take a pic at the same time.
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pull your jack off the top of the spring lay a 2x4 flat here to keep the spring from going to far into the shackle well then jack the axle up higher and pry the shackle forward.
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Is there a way you could replicate this but have the axle hang free with your jack stands supporting the unibody? What you need is that axle to articulate up freely into the fender well. This will cause that spring to go more flat. Its gonna be tough, hence why I mentioned anchoring the Jeep to a driveway/garage floor for safety. All this is easier said than done, keep at it, I know you’ll get it.