How much up-travel do you have?

[mattcogdell]

So to understand better, this shock is 28.95" extended, 17.85" collapsed. At ride height there is 10" of exposed shaft.

 

[toximus]

So to understand better, this shock is 28.95" extended, 17.85" collapsed. At ride height there is 10" of exposed shaft.

How much shaft is exposed at full bump?

 

[mattcogdell]

No idea. I've attempted several times to explain the importance of cycling the suspension and the process on how to go about it. Even offered to go and help him. He went ahead and ordered 14" shocks cause a guy at Rock Krawler told him he needs a lot of down travel to get better rti scores.

 

[HornedToad]

All you need to do is recreate the hole at the top of the mount at a higher point in space. On mine, I used a hole saw through the mount to give the shock room to pass through. Then I put a cap on top of the mount with a hole to bolt the shock post to.

Knowing what I know now with shocks and bump stops, I'm not sure I would do this again with the stock mounts. I did this at an earlier stage of the Jeep and at an earlier stage in my understanding of how all the pieces fit together. If the goal is ~50/50 shock travel with a bolt on shock and the rest of the build is what it ought to be, I'm not sure it's worth the effort.

I like the idea of getting the most out of Ranchos for the time being by doing hokey tower extensions (not saying yours are hokey), especially if poly towers are in the distant future anyway. If the goal is to have 50/50 AND more travel than stock, I don't see any other "budget" way to achieve it.

 

[HornedToad]

Is anyone running currie steering with less than the suggested 2" of bump stop? How dangerous would that be?

 

[someguysjeep]

i'm in toximus's ballpark ...but it's more work than most would even consider.

 

[jjvw]

I like the idea of getting the most out of Ranchos for the time being by doing hokey tower extensions (not saying yours are hokey), especially if poly towers are in the distant future anyway. If the goal is to have 50/50 AND more travel than stock, I don't see any other "budget" way to achieve it.

You'll have to do it anyway, but be sure to fully cycle the axle to see if there really is a gain and if the small amount of worth the effort

 

[jjvw]

Is anyone running currie steering with less than the suggested 2" of bump stop? How dangerous would that be?

Currie bump stops without spacers are less than 2". Before I had them, I was running Currie steering and a flipped tire rod with less than 1.5" extension. Cycle the axle without springs to make sure everything clears. Same with the track bar. Currie says 2" just to protect them from bad installs. That much is not needed if you do it right.

 

[HornedToad]

Currie bump stops without spacers are less than 2". Before I had them, I was running Currie steering and a flipped tire rod with less than 1.5" extension. Cycle the axle without springs to make sure everything clears. Same with the track bar. Currie says 2" just to protect them from bad installs. That much is not needed if you do it right.

So to clarify, it’s not an issue with the tie rod ends maxing out and being destroyed but rather Currie anticipating the average installer not being able to come up with an interference-free system with less than 2” of bump?

 

[HornedToad]

So to clarify, it’s not an issue with the tie rod ends maxing out and being destroyed but rather Currie anticipating the average installer not being able to come up with an interference-free system with less than 2” of bump?

Or put another way, I should just worry about interference with what you mentioned (track bar, axle, etc.) and not tie rod end bind?

 

[jjvw]

Or put another way, I should just worry about interference with what you mentioned (track bar, axle, etc.) and not tie rod end bind?

Tie rod bind won't happen. Just make sure all the bits and pieces clear each other.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Same with the track bar. Currie says 2" just to protect them from bad installs.

When I set up my TJ I found that the first point of interference was a diff cover bolt against the gusset plate between the bar body and the JJ housing. I relieved that by lengthening the bar to better center the axle. After that it seemed like I still had some space at 2", but I didn't keep going to see how far I could go because I needed 3" of extension for my shocks anyway. I also ended up adding caster which would have helped even more with the gusset clearance but I didn't check again since I was adding caster with the upper arms.

 

[Brianj5600]

I’ll play. Front and rear 12” Fox 2.0 RR. Set up 6.5/5.5 (up/down). Savvy 1.25” BL, currie 4” springs, Currie bumps. Factory fenders. 35s.

From my experimenting 5.5” down is all I could achieve in the front while also keeping the springs seated under full droop/extension paired with currie 4” spring.

View attachment 210268

I just got Fox 11s and 12s and will be installing them soon. Did you have to trim or move anything to get that much up travel front and rear?

5.5" up front. 10.75" Rancho 5000x
6" up rear. 12" Fox

35" MTR. Currie 4". Savvy body lift. None of the mounts are factory, except for the front lowers. Don't be distracted by the fenders. The front is going to be getting Foxes soon.

View attachment 210272View attachment 210273View attachment 210274

Did you add a rear spring spacer? If so, how close is it to coil bind? Would trimming the tub have been a better way of getting the 7th inch of up travel?

 

[jjvw]

...



Did you add a rear spring spacer? If so, how close is it to coil bind? Would trimming the tub have been a better way of getting the 7th inch of up travel?

Mine has spring spacers, but the spring seats are also not in their stock locations.

To get 7" up, wider axles, wheel spacers, or skinny tires would be needed. On mine, the tire rubs the shock body at full flex. More flex would mean more rub.

 

[Trevlaw]

I'm at about 6.5" up in the front, 6.5" down with 13" fox 2.0's, and 8" up 4"down in the back with fox 2.5" 12's. Soon to be 5" down in the back once I pull the spacer out and make them 13's. Will also be switching to some 10" 2.5's 1 tube comp bypasses in the front after that, if they have a spacer inside I'll probably pull it and make them 11's for 6.5" up and 4.5" down.

All on a Savvy midarm, currie 4" springs in the front, 4.5" springs in the back with factory fenders, rubicon flares, factory width axles and 33" Duratracs. Custom towers in the front and rear and custom lower mounts front and rear. The rear tires rub the shit out of the 2.5's but it doesn't hurt them at all. I like to go fast

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I'm at about 6.5" up in the front, 6.5" down with 13" fox 2.0's, and 8" up 4"down in the back with fox 2.5" 12's. Soon to be 5" down in the back once I pull the spacer out and make them 13's. Will also be switching to some 10" 2.5's 1 tube comp bypasses in the front after that, if they have a spacer inside I'll probably pull it and make them 11's for 6.5" up and 4.5" down.

All on a Savvy midarm, currie 4" springs in the front, 4.5" springs in the back with factory fenders, rubicon flares, factory width axles and 33" Duratracs. Custom towers in the front and rear and custom lower mounts front and rear. The rear tires rub the shit out of the 2.5's but it doesn't hurt them at all. I like to go fast

View attachment 224027

Love the CO2 tank mount, Trev.

 

[Trevlaw]

Love the CO2 tank mount, Trev.

Thanks haha, glad I had it that day. Took 3 friends to the dunes two hours away and nearly blew a bead not even 5 minutes into wheeling, tire was at like 3 psi lol