Since you have an automatic transmission; have you tried putting the selector in neutral and then cranked the engine over ?
No crank but power on 06 TJ
- Thread starter Medic2038
- Start date
He came out, and hooked up the battery tester. He said the battery was in good shape, and that the problem was something else. Also had me attempt to start it while he was here.
I do hear some kind of "whir" sound when the key is at on. I thought it was something on the starter, but doesn't seems like that's where the sound came from (since I was inches away from the starter testing the terminal wire).
Yeah I'd done that yesterday, that's what Jerry suggested. No change there when I do that.
The horn DOES work (and that was with some relay swapping).
I've seen some of the wiring diagrams while trying to figure this out, but I'm really not sure how to read one of those.
Rubicon88
TJ Addict
You have other means of transportation i take it.
Allow me to tell you as we get rollbacks in here all the time....I know these guys with AAA contracts...they are drivers who can operate a rollback and a set of jumper cables...occasionally one can run a slim jim.
I wouldn't trust one to determine a good battery whatsoever. Most of them aren't arrogant and would admit that very thing.
Unless he gave you a printout or actual hard data of what your CCA was...don't rule out the battery. He very well coukd have just a fancier volt meter than yours and get a 12 volt reading yet your CCA is a fraction of what it should be. Him just saying...yep its good with no other information would NOT satisfy me.
Then again I know these guys and their capabilities and you don't.
A jeep battery is extremely simple to remove.
My suggestion to you since you seem prepared to do war with the jeep is an easy ruling out of the battery.
Remove battery...go to advance auto or the like...say you suspect a bad battery...tell them to give you the CCA of your battery. Matter of fact you'd like to see what it says on their tester.
Given they sell them they'll be happy to test this for you.
Good luck.
So when you bridged the solenoid/starter it just spun or whirred? I have not done this for years but your Bendix drive should have spun into the flywheel and cranked it? maybe there is not enough crank amps in the battery? Do you have ticking from the solenoid when you turn the ignition to start?
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If you replaced the starter and you get a Whir sound then your Bendix drive is not throwing out enough to crank the flywheel, if you get a ticking sound you do not have enough crank amps if you get nothing your solenoid could be shot because your starter actually reacted when you bridged the solenoid, take out the starter and connect it to a battery with some wires for a second or less to test your throw out bearing, hold it tight though in case it is working. If it was an Auto transmission selector problem you would get nothing
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Alright I'll do that after work. What should I be looking for as far as the CCA?
I'm getting rides via my mom and girlfriend.
I'll pull it out and take it down tonight after work.
I've been relying on my mom and girlfriend for rides so definitely want to get this sorted out.
It spun (the key wasn't turned though, I was by myself). I'm not sure where the whir sound cones from, but it sounds like the passenger side somewhere. That's when the key is in the on position. It's probably a bit longer too (maybe 2 seconds)
I didn't hear any tick. My hearing is also not so great, so if it's a quiet/subtle sound I might not be able to hear it. When she was turning it to start I didn't hear anything down there.
You have power and absolutetly no crank or clicking. 95% of the time that means it's not the battery. You even had the battery tested. I'd stop chasing that rabbit. The starter is brand new and should work. I gave you a solution in post #5. It will cost you about $20 and get you back on the road in 15mins. Even if you just hook up a temporary push button connected directly to the starter while you trouble shoot the actual issue, it will allow you to use the Jeep and not rely on others for rides.
JKP
TJ Addict
The fan is in the passenger footwell and will come on with the switch in the ON position. That's probably your whirr.
If battery is good and starter new, I'm guessing Ignition Actuator Pin is broken.
Turn the key to ON and jump the solenoid with it in park and the parking brake on. It should start.
If battery is good and starter new, I'm guessing Ignition Actuator Pin is broken.
Turn the key to ON and jump the solenoid with it in park and the parking brake on. It should start.
It's not that I haven't thought about that, it's that I really don't feel like I know what I'm doing enough to try that.
I'd say my understanding of electrical stuff is basic at best. I just don't want to make anything worse.
It's actually very easy and if you want to make it super simple, run 2 wires. One from the starter terminal (it's the only Phillips head screw on the starter) to one end of the push button. The other wire from the positive battery terminal to the other end of the push button. Running the wire from the battery is going to take a bit longer but it will make it so you're not messing with any of the current wiring.
Yeah it's definitely not the battery. I ran 16ga from the starter terminal up to the positive. When she turned the key into run it fired right up.
Yeah I got it started with just running the wire from the starter terminal up to the positive on the battery. I used some 16ga wire I had here. For the moment I just have it wrapped around the starter terminal, and touched the other end to the battery terminal.
How would I secure that to both the battery and to the starter terminal? I've never really done any kind of soldering/splicing or anything like that.
I there somewhere I can just feed them through with the old wiring?
And finally how can I track down what part of the old circuit went bad (did you even bother with that)?
Rubicon88
TJ Addict
This is a good job for a power probe, it would help you troubleshoot a lot. I would check your neutral safety switch, jumper it and see if it cranks.
The neutral switch has 3 wires, one is ground the other 2 are a pass through when in neutral
No nothing looked like it was melted or anything that I've seen. I'm really not sure where to start. There's definitely nothing coming to the starter terminal wire (the one with the plastic thing on the end). Also didn't have any power coming to the starter fuse in the dash when we tried it yesterday.
I picked up a little 12v bulb tester the other day, if that's what you mean? I also have a multimeter.
As far as the NSS, looking around it seems like I can bypass that by putting a fuse into the dash fuse slot 20?
JKP
TJ Addict
The bypass is for manual trans only so that you can start and stop the Jeep on hills in 4L using the ignition switch.
JKP
TJ Addict
JKP
TJ Addict
Interesting that they would include that on an auto as it has no benefit other than a backup if the NSS fails.