I need build advice

[D M]

Hi everyone, im in sort of a dilemma and would like others opinions...

My TJ as it sits right now is on a 3" spring, 1.25" Body Lift on 33s (with a 1"MML), stock gears (nv3550) stock arms, garbage unknown rear shocks, and some Savvy Fox 2.0s valved for the Currie 4" I bought off craigslist. I'm at a crossroads building wise. Id like to do the savvy midarm, outboard, highlines, 5.13 and a HP30 for 35s. I have been stockpiling side parts ATM for whatever I plan to do, but here's my problem. Cost is one thing, and I haven't wheeled enough to need it. I've been to places like Johnson Valley where it would be useful, and I plan to go there again and again, but I really like the idea of having a smaller, lighter, and overall cheaper rig, yet still capable. My jeep can fit in the garage as it sits right now and I'm liking it a lot. I plan on wheeling a lot on 33s to learn the rig and get more driver experience. I have also seen some very capable rigs well setup on 33s. So the question is which way should I go? I am not entirely sure because I feel one day I would want 35s. If I left it on 33s I would (and plan to) do a full TT, I have a JB conversions SS SYE and UCF Ultra High Tcase skid waiting to be put in, along with a JKS adjustable rear trackbar if I were to go with the short arm route. I would also do 4.88s and a rear locker , then I would buy metalcloak, currie, or savvy CA's. If I wanted 35s with this setup I could highline it, but don't want to sacrifice travel for clearance. I know its a money pit both ways, one is obviously a lot more (I did the math at roughly 12k+ more for 35s properly), but im not sure what to do. Any advice is appreciated thank you

 

[2001slvrstntj]

Only you can decide but I stopped at 33s, would love the look of 35s but read many people who said stay with 33s and took that advice. Still looks great I think and performs fine for me.

 

[Chris]

My personal opinion is that anyone who wheels a lot in the rocks and plans to continue will inevitably end up on 35s. Whether you do it now or down the road, if you plan to keep wheeling it will happen at some point.

 

[cjindna]

I sold my JKUR with an LS swap, tons, 40’s, c/o’s, blah blah because I realized that I just wasn’t enjoying wheeling it any longer because a) I wasn’t willing to push it to a place where real body damage is likely and b) every other location I usually run was too damn easy

Picking up the TJ and committing to 33’s from day one has been challenging but in all the right ways. Trails are fun again, picking the right line matters again, really thoughtful mods now make big differences, the list goes on - oh yeah, I can get in the Jeep and drive anywhere with no worries of losing a >$100k “investment” or being stuck in Gallup, NM needing an alternator but not having a drill and bit to open up the case mounting through-hole (swap life ).

 

[jjvw]

I spent years building for 35s, while running 33s. I got into a lot of places that way. And by the time I moved to 35s I had a really good platform to support that tire size.

One thing I'll encourage is to focus heavily on shocks. And the best setup for shocks is going to be the one that supports 35s. And it won't be Metalcloak stuff.

 

[Mike_H]

If you build right for 33's, 35' aren't that much more money.

33's really require a tummy tuck, which gets you adjustable uppers. If you're doing adjustable uppers, you might as well do lowers too. So, that is taken care of. You already have a body lift to cover the TT, so you might as well lift the gas tank skid.

33's are bigger and heavier than the factory tires...so you'll need to upgrade your steering. ZJ at a minimum, but Currie is better. Since you're sitting lower on 33's, you should probably get the Currie cuz you'll be more likely to smash it into rocks.

Good shocks helps EVERY ride and height

33's also probably should get re-geared axles.

33's need better brakes...no really. You might "get by" on factory brakes, but really, you should upgrade at that point.

So, really, the only difference between 33's and 35's is the physical tire, an extra inch of lift and longer shocks.

 

[D M]

And it won't be Metalcloak stuff.

Curious to know, are you disliking their control arms, springs, shocks or just in general?

 

[D M]

If you build right for 33's, 35' aren't that much more money.

33's really require a tummy tuck, which gets you adjustable uppers. If you're doing adjustable uppers, you might as well do lowers too. So, that is taken care of. You already have a body lift to cover the TT, so you might as well lift the gas tank skid.

33's are bigger and heavier than the factory tires...so you'll need to upgrade your steering. ZJ at a minimum, but Currie is better. Since you're sitting lower on 33's, you should probably get the Currie cuz you'll be more likely to smash it into rocks.

Good shocks helps EVERY ride and height

33's also probably should get re-geared axles.

33's need better brakes...no really. You might "get by" on factory brakes, but really, you should upgrade at that point.

So, really, the only difference between 33's and 35's is the physical tire, an extra inch of lift and longer shocks.

I forgot to mention I have the ZJ steering and actually have currie currectlync sitting in my garage that I bought of craigslist, I plan on doing the Savvy gas tank skid along with a UCF engine skid. Im thinking if I were to leave it where it sits and do the TT then I could Hi-line it and be decently setup on 35s. I have the 5speed on 33s and it sucks, it gets by but it sucks. I could leave it for now and regear later if I highline and slap on 35s because I would rather run 5.13s instead of 4.88s

 

[jjvw]

Curious to know, are you disliking their control arms, springs, shocks or just in general?

All of it

 

[LJBean]

Don't be afraid of 35s if:

You have a D 44 in the rear and alloy shafts in your D 30 (or better) in the front.

You'll need the right gearing (4.88 or preferably higher with the 42 RLE).

You'll also want HD steering, the right lift, backspacing, and shocks, but that info is readily available.

Your lift will likely also require a TC SYE adapter and new rear DS.

And a break upgrade like Black Magic breaks would be highly recommended.

Things get more complicated when you go to 37s or higher.

 

[D M]

Don't be afraid of 35s if:

You have a D 44 in the rear and alloy shafts in your D 35 (or better) in the front.

You'll need the right gearing (4.88 or preferably higher with the 42 RLE).

You'll also want HD steering, the right lift, backspacing, and shocks, but that info is readily available.

Your lift will likely also require a TC SYE adapter and new rear DS.

And a break upgrade like Black Magic breaks would be highly recommended.

Things get more complicated when you go to 37s or higher.

35s are a rabbit hole let alone 33s can be.

I already have a dana 44, planning on shafts for front and rear if I do

I have the NV3550 5 speed manual, id need 4.88 or 5.13, but 5.13 would be better, if I can hold off for a while before going to 35s then ill go 5.13s because im not a fan of 4.88s and 35s. 4.88s work well on 33s with my transmission, but 5.13s are too deep imo

I have currectlync steering waiting to be put in, my wheels are of 4.0" of backspacing which is ideal for a 35/12.50/15 15x8, i know what shocks too

Already have a JB Conversions SS SYE/Speedohealer and a UCF Ultra High Tcase skid, along with a JKS rear adjustable trackbar and bracket waiting to go in. (already installed 1" MML)

Planning on going to Black magic pads and rotors for the front

I dont even want to imagine going to 37s $$$ wise

 

[Plumber1]

Well from the parts you have it seams like you are trying to set it up for 35's but just need someone to give you a little nudge. So bend over and I will kick you in the butt and tell you put on the 35's dam it.

 

[D M]

Well from the parts you have it seams like you are trying to set it up for 35's but just need someone to give you a little nudge. So bend over and I will kick you in the butt and tell you put on the 35's dam it.

I think im gonna leave it on a 3" spring, full tummy tuck, GR highlines, 5.13/rear elocker and slap some 35s under her(with chromoly shafts of course). Now to decide on control arms

 

[jjvw]

...

I have the NV3550 5 speed manual, id need 4.88 or 5.13, but 5.13 would be better, if I can hold off for a while before going to 35s then ill go 5.13s because im not a fan of 4.88s and 35s. 4.88s work well on 33s with my transmission, but 5.13s are too deep imo

....

Funny that you say that, because I completely agree. I would like to regear from my 4.88/nv3550 and I'm considering 5.38.

 

[RINC]

I am working towards 35in tyres for my Jeep.

After a couple or 15 adult beverages, I went looking for crate axles last night.

Currie 44's with either 5:13 or 5:38 R&P. Eaton e-lockers.

What a darn rabbit hole this is.

 

[D M]

Funny that you say that, because I completely agree. I would like to regear from my 4.88/nv3550 and I'm considering 5.38.

I went for a drive in another friends jeep, he just bought it a few weeks ago, RE 4.5" Long arm, 4.88s, 35s, Ax-15. Seeing a bolt on long arm in person makes me even steer more clear from them and the 4.88s sucked. Granted his jeep is heavy, they still sucked

I am also might just go 5.13s on 33s anyway, since I dont really go faster than 60 in the freeway, plus it will set me up for 35s if/when I ever want to make the jump. I might be getting a new daily soon so the jeep wouldnt see much driving if I did so I think 5.13s would be good for me.

 

[someguysjeep]

Now to decide on control arms

the JJ would be my choice over the duroflex joint.

 

[jjvw]

I went for a drive in another friends jeep, he just bought it a few weeks ago, RE 4.5" Long arm, 4.88s, 35s, Ax-15. Seeing a bolt on long arm in person makes me even steer more clear from them and the 4.88s sucked. Granted his jeep is heavy, they still sucked

I am also might just go 5.13s on 33s anyway, since I dont really go faster than 60 in the freeway, plus it will set me up for 35s if/when I ever want to make the jump. I might be getting a new daily soon so the jeep wouldnt see much driving if I did so I think 5.13s would be good for me.

For some perspective, look at the factory gearing that came in the stock TJs with the 32rh. Anyone who thinks our engines are best revving at low rpms needs to ask Jeep what they were thinking.

 

[D M]

For some perspective, look at the factory gearing that came in the stock TJs with the 32rh. Anyone who thinks our engines are best revving at low rpms needs to ask Jeep what they were thinking.

Right now im with 3.73 and 33s, i dont use 5th gear. Ever. 3k rpm puts me at about 77-78mph and its barely tolerable

 

[jjvw]

Right now im with 3.73 and 33s, i dont use 5th gear. Ever. 3k rpm puts me at about 77-78mph and its barely tolerable

285/75r16 Cooper ST Maxx (33")
NV3550/32"/4.56=2801rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/32"/4.88=2998rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/32"/5.13=3151rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/32"/5.38=3305rpm @ 75mph

35" MTR
NV3550/33.875"/4.56=2646rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/33.875"/4.88=2832rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/33.875"/5.13=2977rpm @ 75mph
NV3550/33.875"/5.38=3122rpm @ 75mph