A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

Looks like everything is coming along well here, except the Yukon hub issue. Took me an hour to catch up. Glad you went with the H&R’s since you’ll be adding the Savvy 1.25” BL, which will put you at 2.25” or so, good for 31’s. If you used the nth springs you’d need bigger tires to make it look right. Good choices, except the hubs. 🤣 what a fiasco.
 
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Looks like everything is coming along well here, except the Yukon hub issue. Took me an hour to catch up. Glad you went with the H&R’s since you’ll be adding the Savvy 1.25” BL, which will put you at 2.25” or so, good for 31’s. If you used the nth springs you’d need bigger tires to make it look right. Good choices, except the hubs. 🤣 what a fiasco.
I'm content with the plan so far. I've got some time before the Savvy control arms get here, so I'll get the Rubicon rear 44 cleaned up and prepped for the install. Once the arms get here, I'll start with the suspension and steering. The list after that is long!
 
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I know this has been covered, but for anyone that may be looking to do the YA WU-07 [21731] Spin Free Locking Hub Conversion Kit for Dana 30 & Dana 44 TJ, XJ, YJ, 27 Spline, 5 x 4.5, here's my take on the installation:

Check your parts and part numbers before proceeding. I received two different stub shafts and didn't discover until I installed the wrong one first :mad:
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The first step in the process is to mate the supplied outer stub shaft to your inner, with the supplied U Joints. In my case I couldn't see installing a 4340 outer on a stock inner. I ordered new 4340 inners, then pressed in the new U joints on my 20 Ton press. Once the two shafts were mated, install the slinger, V - shaped seal (Flat side facing away from the vehicle), and plastic washer/spacer. Note the plastic spacer has a flat side and beveled side. The beveled side is installed like the V-seal, facing away from the vehicle.
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Next, put grease on the axle shaft and install it, being careful not to damage the inner seal. Then slide the brake packing plate on, followed by the spindle. Secure the spindle with the three 12 point hub bearing bolts.
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Install the hub on the supplied rotor, then press the studs in. When doing so you can't get all 5 studs in with a single set of arbor plates, so I removed the old wheel studs from the hub bearing and used that as a platform to install the studs.
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Once the studs were installed, the inner race gets installed, the bearing packed and installed.
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With the bearing in, install the seal (Note grease was left out for the pictures, but packed for the actual install. Also,
a 72mm seal/race driver worked perfect for installing the races and seal.
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Flip the rotor/hub over and install the outer race and bearing (grease packed of course!).
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Next, install the rotor/hub on the spindle and install the first locking nut. Note the first one to go on has a small nipple, which should face outward. Once on, preload the bearing (I'll leave it to you to figure out how much preload to use).
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Install the locking washer, making sure the nipple goes into one of the holes.
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Follow that up with the next locking washer and torque to spec.
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Once the rotor/hub is locked in place, install the indexed washer (left part in picture) and snap ring (right part in picture). If the snap ring groove isn't visible, use a pry bar on the stub shaft to push it out.
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With these two parts in place, you can now install the locking hub and claim success for one side. Now repeat for the other!
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What I liked best about the small hub kit was that I could replace a hub in 10 minutes if that was all that broke. I had the Warn full floater kit in the rear also with the small hub kit so I carry one hub to replace any of the 4 if one broke. Granted it was a 4 popper with 4.88 gears & 4:1 t-case and 35" tires but I beat on that hub kit for a while before I finally blew one. And it was from a tire wedged under undercut shelf and instead of backing up I tried to POWER thru it.

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What I liked best about the small hub kit was that I could replace a hub in 10 minutes if that was all that broke. I had the Warn full floater kit in the rear also with the small hub kit so I carry one hub to replace any of the 4 if one broke. Granted it was a 4 popper with 4.88 gears & 4:1 t-case and 35" tires but I beat on that hub kit for a while before I finally blew one. And it was from a tire wedged under undercut shelf and instead of backing up I tried to POWER thru it.

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I have Reid knuckles and the full size Warn conversion on my LJ. This small kit can be swapped out much faster and with fewer tools! (y)
 
I have Reid knuckles and the full size Warn conversion on my LJ. This small kit can be swapped out much faster and with fewer tools! (y)

Back when I got my TJ I lucked out and got the Warn FF kit & the front hub kit lightly used for some great prices.
The Warn FF kit even came with new shafts because the OP had broken one. And the front hub kit I got off Ebay.
 
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Back when I got my TJ I lucked out and got the Warn FF kit & the front hub kit lightly used for some great prices.
The Warn FF kit even came with new shafts because the OP had broken one. And the front hub kit I got off Ebay.
Does a full float kit for the rear exist anymore? I haven't seen one, except on a 60! :unsure:
 
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The correct outer stub shaft arrived yesterday, along with a new U joint. The third party vendor I dealt with was awesome and took care of the problem, even though the kit they sold me was supplied to them by Yukon. I sent a second email to Yukon and the response I got back basically said, you should have bought directly from us. Bottom line, I'd buy again from the vendor that supplied the kit to me!