A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

This seems to be a very common thing when purchasing thru Amazon. Companies for whatever reason don't like to back products or warranties on Amazon purchased items.
Sometimes inventory somehow ends up on Amazon (even sold and shipped by) when it's not supposed to.
 
Sometimes inventory somehow ends up on Amazon (even sold and shipped by) when it's not supposed to.
Yes, but they don't list as being from a "store" set up on Amazon do they?

I know all about bootleg stuff sold to Amazon. They are not authorized dealers for Centric. They do not buy from Centric. They sell Centric right above my cost so they are buying it from someone and then warehousing it and selling it.
 
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Sometimes inventory somehow ends up on Amazon (even sold and shipped by) when it's not supposed to.
I bought a Carhartt jacket on amazon from the official store. I got an obvious knockoff and returned it for another at the exact same link and store - got a real one. Sometimes stuff gets mixed in for sure. @Irun get that return and your money back, you can always order again.
 
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Yes, but they don't list as being from a "store" set up on Amazon do they?

I know all about bootleg stuff sold to Amazon. They are not authorized dealers for Centric. They do not buy from Centric. They sell Centric right above my cost so they are buying it from someone and then warehousing it and selling it.
Not arguing that. But for somebody not well versed in Amazon it can be pretty confusing how they work and who's selling what.
 
Since I have both the small and large, 5 on 5.5, kits, I can say that the small kit is less complex than the larger style I have. So far, in spite of the setbacks, I'm impressed with the design.

More to come!
EB3viBx.jpg


2IiE3Ye.jpg
 
Since I have both the small and large, 5 on 5.5, kits, I can say that the small kit is less complex than the larger style I have. So far, in spite of the setbacks, I'm impressed with the design.

More to come!
View attachment 226688

View attachment 226689
The only difference in complexity is the hub lock. Self contained unit on the small kit versus some assemblage of hub lock bits on the big kit.
 
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The only difference in complexity is the hub lock. Self contained unit on the small kit versus some assemblage of hub lock bits on the big kit.
Yes, I have the version that uses Reid knuckles. The hub complexity of the bigger conversion is definitely different!
 
Someone, somewhere is completely full of shit.
From a diff cover I purchased, click the link and it takes you to the Yukon store on Amazon.

View attachment 226662
Surely Irun needs to reply to Gus with just a screen shot of the Yukon Amazon store front and an enormous question mark.

I did search for Gus on the internet and one link shows him working for a company called Randy's Worldwide, does that company own Yukon?
 
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I spoke to the 3rd Party vendor yesterday. He was friendly and seemed genuinely concerned about making sure I was happy with the purchase. Supposedly, new parts are being shipped to me. We shall see!

FWIW, I wish Yukon was as concerned about the reputation of their products. Sadly, the "you're on your own" email is more of a common problem these days and gives me little confidence in them as a company. Whenever, possible, I'll seek alternatives.
 
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I spoke to the 3rd Party vendor yesterday. He was friendly and seemed genuinely concerned about making sure I was happy with the purchase. Supposedly, new parts are being shipped to me. We shall see!

FWIW, I wish Yukon was as concerned about the reputation of their products. Sadly, the "you're on your own" email is more of a common problem these days and gives me little confidence in them as a company. Whenever, possible, I'll seek alternatives.
Did you challenge Gus on the not selling on Amazon claim?
 
On my to-do list is the armor install, which will include Savvy corners and rockers. That said, I have two questions.

1. It seems logical to install the rockers first, then do the corner armor. Is this sequence correct?

2. I've ordered a new 17/32" drill bit for the nutserts and a Blair 3/8" Spot Weld (Rotabroach) kit (1st link below). The kit comes with a drill bit pilot. However, I noticed there's also a non-drill pilot (2nd link). Is there a preference for which pilot style to use?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015S9ZG6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
On my to-do list is the armor install, which will include Savvy corners and rockers. That said, I have two questions.

1. It seems logical to install the rockers first, then do the corner armor. Is this sequence correct?

2. I've ordered a new 17/32" drill bit for the nutserts and a Blair 3/8" Spot Weld (Rotabroach) kit (1st link below). The kit comes with a drill bit pilot. However, I noticed there's also a non-drill pilot (2nd link). Is there a preference for which pilot style to use?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015S9ZG6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Having recently used a Blair spot weld cutter to cut about 60 spotwelds, I'd say get the drill pilot. Even with the drill pilot, I had to concentrate on keeping the drill square, or the cutter would walk. Low speed, low pressure until the cutter is established, then low speed and heavy pressure. Oil the cut too. Went thru all the welds I cut with a single cutter. It's WAY better than the HF version.
 
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Thanks. Unfortunately I can't hold back a school boy snigger. As once said our two nations are separated by a common language and over here "randy" has the same meaning as horny, so Randy's worldwide has rather interesting connotations.
Well, maybe his parents knew he was going to really like to screw folks when he grew up, you may be onto something.
 
On my to-do list is the armor install, which will include Savvy corners and rockers. That said, I have two questions.

1. It seems logical to install the rockers first, then do the corner armor. Is this sequence correct?

2. I've ordered a new 17/32" drill bit for the nutserts and a Blair 3/8" Spot Weld (Rotabroach) kit (1st link below). The kit comes with a drill bit pilot. However, I noticed there's also a non-drill pilot (2nd link). Is there a preference for which pilot style to use?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015S9ZG6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I've used a spot weld cutter like the second one linked and it was the most difficult tool I've used. The bit kept walking and no matter what speed I tried it at I couldn't figure it out. The spring loaded punch in the center sucked. I didn't buy the tool (I was helping out a friend replace a front clip on a Civic hatch) so I cant say whether it was a quality tool or not.

After that experience my preference would be one with a pilot bit
 
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Having recently used a Blair spot weld cutter to cut about 60 spotwelds, I'd say get the drill pilot. Even with the drill pilot, I had to concentrate on keeping the drill square, or the cutter would walk. Low speed, low pressure until the cutter is established, then low speed and heavy pressure. Oil the cut too. Went thru all the welds I cut with a single cutter. It's WAY better than the HF version.

I've used a spot weld cutter like the second one linked and it was the most difficult tool I've used. The bit kept walking and no matter what speed I tried it at I couldn't figure it out. The spring loaded punch in the center sucked. I didn't buy the tool (I was helping out a friend replace a front clip on a Civic hatch) so I cant say whether it was a quality tool or not.

After that experience my preference would be one with a pilot bit

This will be my first time using the cutter for drilling holes in the tub. I did see to keep the drill speeds down and will plan to use the low speed setting on the drill, to get started. The drill pilot also seems to make sense, which is the one I bought. I do need to get the lubricant though. (y)