Ending on a plus note. The Alloy Cover is awesome. Got it on Amazon for $23. At this point I'll take a small victory!
That's how we learn, we've all done it.Failure on my part. Went over the instructions several times before starting. and checked that all the parts were there. However, I didn't verify each part numerically. A 33% error is still a 100% failure!
I wish they still made them for the 44, I'd buy 25 of them tomorrow.Ending on a plus note. The Alloy Cover is awesome. Got it on Amazon for $23. At this point I'll take a small victory!
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You're not the only one today. I put my hub kit on only to realize my wheel adapters won't fit over the hub and need machined. I had to remove the hub kit and reinstall the unit bearing set up.Failure on my part. Went over the instructions several times before starting. and checked that all the parts were there. However, I didn't verify each part numerically. A 33% error is still a 100% failure!
I'd rank this one a best bang for the buck upgrade!I wish they still made them for the 44, I'd buy 25 of them tomorrow.
Started digging around on amazon and found this for the 44. Any experience? Doesn't look like it takes up much more room than the stamped steel cover. As pinion angle increases, when does fill plug location become a problem?I wish they still made them for the 44, I'd buy 25 of them tomorrow.
That's the one from Alloy USA?Ending on a plus note. The Alloy Cover is awesome. Got it on Amazon for $23. At this point I'll take a small victory!
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One step forward, two back. Seems like a common theme with those of us willing to do the work, even when we know we're going to hit some bumps in the road. On the plus side, age has taught me, in the grand scheme of things, that there are worse things to complain about!You're not the only one today. I put my hub kit on only to realize my wheel adapters won't fit over the hub and need machined. I had to remove the hub kit and reinstall the unit bearing set up.
Even when we think we know what we are doing, we still struggle with stuff. I'm making a door panel, I need it to attach with flat head stainless Torx drive screws. I need 3 lengths. 1/2", 1", and 1 1/2". I ordered in the first lot only to discover that the 1" are not the advertised T-25 driver size but T-20 and they have a slightly smaller head. I order them elsewhere, they are the same, I order them from another place, same. I find a 4th place and this time I send a note to not send them if they are not the advertised T-25, just cancel and refund. It is getting a bit tedious.One step forward, two back. Seems like a common theme with those of us willing to do the work, even when we know we're going to hit some bumps in the road. On the plus side, age has taught me, in the grand scheme of things, that there are worse things to complain about!
Yes, it's the Alloy cover. It's only nominally taller than the stock cover. However, I couldn't believe just how much beefier it is than the stock one. I wouldn't expect any major clearance issues, but will find out once all the suspension parts are installed and I can cycle it.That's the one from Alloy USA?
That thing is beefy, no clearance issues with these?
Looking at the cover, I wouldn't expect there to be any fill issues. Unless the pinion was at an extreme angle. I do plan on installing a Savvy UA, but I'm keeping the spring lift between 1" - 2".Started digging around on amazon and found this for the 44. Any experience? Doesn't look like it takes up much more room than the stamped steel cover. As pinion angle increases, when does fill plug location become a problem?
When I was younger, I didn't think about time as a finite thing. Now that I'm older, I realize just how short it is. This is the part that frustrates me the most. Inaccurate descriptions and mistakes in packaging cost time, which can't be returned or refunded. As you said though, more attention to detail up front is needed on our part though!Even when we think we know what we are doing, we still struggle with stuff. I'm making a door panel, I need it to attach with flat head stainless Torx drive screws. I need 3 lengths. 1/2", 1", and 1 1/2". I ordered in the first lot only to discover that the 1" are not the advertised T-25 driver size but T-20 and they have a slightly smaller head. I order them elsewhere, they are the same, I order them from another place, same. I find a 4th place and this time I send a note to not send them if they are not the advertised T-25, just cancel and refund. It is getting a bit tedious.
I'm gonna put together a spreadsheet for parts to get, what part numbers did you get for the jounce bumpers and spring insulators? The Moog K160060 is what I found on amazon for the insulators, would you need 4 of that part number?After over studying the spring choice, I committed to a set of H&R 52107 Sport Springs. Absent real data on the H&R springs, because H&R won't tell you their free length or spring rates, the decision was made for primarily three reasons:
1. Having installed them twice, I know they're well made and will yield 1' - 1.5 ", depending on sprung weight
2. I looked at the next best choice for my use, i.e. OME 2933 & 2941. These are close enough in free length to the 3" Nth Degree springs I have that when combined with the Savvy 1.25" BL, I'll end up with too much space between the tire and flare, with a 31" tire.
3. Price. A set of four was $238 delivered next day, from Tire Rack
Money saved when ordering the H&R springs allowed me to buy the following, for roughly the delta amount I would have spent on OME springs:
- New front and rear spring insulators
- New front and rear jounce bumpers
- New "Made in USA" CNC Machined 1" front and rear coil spring spacers
The later will be used to "tune" the ride height. If I only need two, the others will be donated to a lifelong friend. Once I get the ride height set, I'll measure and make my shock choice. This way I should be able to get the exact amount of up and down travel I'll want.
Two of these for the rearI'm gonna put together a spreadsheet for parts to get, what part numbers did you get for the jounce bumpers and spring insulators? The Moog K160060 is what I found on amazon for the insulators, would you need 4 of that part number?
Ouch! I will no doubt need to regear at some point. Yukon were on my list for parts, but I think they have just dropped off the list. If your experience is anything to go by I can't risk buying their product.Missing needle bearing in one u joint, two different outers, and hubs that are scratched and look used. I've walked away for the evening. I'm pissed as it is, because of poor packaging on Yukon's part!
Ordered on February 8 and haven't received anything about shipping. I see the order confirmation, via email, but when I log into my account there's nothing showing. Will have to call them later today.Did you get the shipping info from Poly Performance for your Sway Loc yet?
A buddy of mine installed one of their kits, with no problems. However, that was several years ago. I'm not sure if my experience is normal today, but I can say I'm extremely unhappy. Lots of lost effort and time here!Ouch! I will no doubt need to regear at some point. Yukon were on my list for parts, but I think they have just dropped off the list. If your experience is anything to go by I can't risk buying their product.
Very normal. Wanna have some fun, do their hardcore hubs on Superduty unit bearings. If you aren't willing to spend a lot of time measuring and cutting new spacers so the hub locks will engage correctly, don't even try.A buddy of mine installed one of their kits, with no problems. However, that was several years ago. I'm not sure if my experience is normal today, but I can say I'm extremely unhappy. Lots of lost effort and time here!
I build my own rear links. All you need is:So I've got shocks, springs, spring spacers, isolators, bump stops, body lift, motor mount lift, t-case shifter, and the track bar drop bracket for the rear. In terms of what's needed for lifting the Jeep, is that everything? If I missed anything let me know but I think that's all of it. It's my understanding that the JKS adjustable front track bar isn't required, but would probably be beneficial so I threw it on as well. Will this lift require longer sway bar links or anything like that?